It was to be my fourth trip to Kyrgyzstan, and the anticipation was huge as always. But things got stressful right at the start: The travel time to the airport was actually calculated sufficiently. However, when the train pulls out in front of you, things can get quite tense. Fortunately, I managed to catch the plane to Istanbul. There we all met up at the "regulars' table" to then continue our journey together to the Kyrgyz capital of Bishkek.
We were also uncertain about the current conditions on site. Really reliable weather and snow reports are in short supply and the little information available on the internet is sparse and sometimes quite controversial. The only reliable source was my mate Vladimir. He is a good friend and also the president of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guides Association. I had met up with him in the summer to decide on the exact route for the winter, having previously explored part of it by bike.
So I already knew part of the route - the rest would be new to me too. Our tour was to take us from the north (Bishkek) to the south (Osh) of the country, offering not only magnificent mountain experiences, but also encounters with the Kyrgyz people and their culture. Kyrgyzstan is always exciting and new for me. Almost nothing works as planned, but almost everything works much more slowly or differently. But that is also what makes such countries so appealing. After all, our environment in Western Europe is geared towards perfection and a fast pace - in Kyrgyzstan, on the other hand, the clocks tick slower and differently. However, if you get involved with this cultivated chaos and the people, you get more in return than you could ever buy.
I was all the more surprised this time that all the luggage was actually on the conveyor belt in Bishkek. Our driver, Sascha, picked us up. But before we set off on the road towards Töö Ashu Pass, we had to pay a visit to Vladimir in the office. Although it was only 8:00 in the morning, my friend greeted us with the first schnapps. Our kettle was running at Kyrgyz operating temperature. When we left, our provisions on the bus included not only sausage, cheese and sweets, but of course also a collection of spirits for the cold days ahead. We didn't seem to have enough of them - the remains of our alcohol supply are still in my bar at home.
On the way to the pass, we stocked up on apples, bananas and water at one of the numerous markets. Initial conversion difficulties led to discussions, as we didn't want to buy 20 liters of water for 30 euros. On closer inspection, however, this turned out to be just three euros and led to us having our first fun at the market that morning.
Ski tours in Arslanbob
Unfortunately, the area didn't have much to offer after a few days due to the snow situation and so we continued our journey south to Arslanbob. On the way through It Agar Canyon, we were amazed at the many car wrecks in the ditch and in the canyon. Apparently some of the vehicles had lost their braking power. However, Sascha drove us safely past Toktogul, Narin, Tash Kömur, along the barbed wire at the Uzbek border, Massi and finally to Arslanbob.
There we met a very important Kyrgyz for the area: Hayat from CBT (Community Based Tourism) has built up the whole "ski touring business" in Arslanbob and tries to involve the local population with the tourists' money and let them share in the "prosperity". The area is a mecca for nature lovers. Fortunately, the conditions here were much more stable than in the north, but it was also warmer.
Over the next few days, Russian off-road vehicles, the Lada Nivas, chauffeured us through the undergrowth before we finally climbed up to the peaks under our own steam. Our base was Guesthouse No.1, run by Nazeera and her family. We not only lived with these Kyrgyz, we also adapted to them: Cooking was done on an open fire and showers became a rarity. The family packed lots of eggs in our daily packed lunches and in the morning and evening we had garlic salad, which was actually supposed to be coleslaw.
Ski tourism is still in its infancy in Arslanbob. So it was not surprising that we were soon known like colorful dogs. The locals always welcomed us with open arms - and with the first penetrating and endearing offers of marriage. The old sauna house, which is only accessible to men, was also a very special experience (insider tip!). If you are in Arslanbob on market day, you should definitely try the shashlik there.
After a few days, we wanted to swap the cozy bed of the guesthouse for a sleeping mat in a shepherd's hut in the mountains. On the way there, however, it quickly became clear that the snow was too soft and deep for our horses. So we dragged the equipment up the steep, impassable path ourselves for the next few days. We cursed the climb. No wonder the horses didn't fancy it. But what we then found made up for the effort: a tiny place to stay in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by a basin with endless lines close by and easy access in the best weather. Now it also became clear why so many "guides" had come along. Just like us, the specialists were really keen on the trip and hadn't bivouacked up here all winter.
