Over the last two weeks Chamonix has seen rapid changes. Significant snowfall down to valley level (finally!) was followed by a short period of relative calm, but favourable conditions across the board were suddenly destroyed by lift-closing gale-force wi

Schneelage

Whilst coverage above 2000m is generally very good, anything below the treeline has suffered majorly during the last storm cycle. Between the trees isn't worth contemplating, and open spaces between the forests are nothing but thick rain crust, heavy mank, or fields of pine needle and bracken tops. There is, categorically, no tree skiing to be done in the valley at the moment, even on the north-facing side.But above 2000m, things have improved greatly over the last two weeks, and a significant quantity of warm, wet snow has stuck firm to mountains that badly needed it. The classic easy routes in the Argentiere basin, the Col d'Argentiere and the Col du Tour Noir, are now seeing daily traffic, and the routes at the lower end of the basin such as the Col du Chardonnet and the Col du Passon, which were far too dry for most people to even consider just a few weeks ago, are now seeing regular traffic.Similarly, more and more groups are skiing the Vallee Blanche and similar routes nearby such as the Pas de Chevre, and the reports coming back are sounding favourable, but most parties are still roping up to get through the Salle a Manger.The touring in the Aiguilles Rouges and further afield, near Loriaz and the Bel Oiseau, is still as good as ever if you don't mind a bit of walking at the end, and a little dry skiing in places.

Schneequalität

On the whole, snow quality is good, and I'm not just saying that because we were starved for so long, back in the longest November on record, lasting three whole months... despite unseasonably-warm temperatures for the last few days, snow on the north faces has stayed cold, and thanks to those same temperatures, the south faces are entering their predictable spring snow cycle.Depending on which weather forecast you choose to believe, there may be anywhere up to 60cm of snow coming over the next few days, quite wind-driven at first, but with winds dropping quite early on next week, so there should be a good amount of decent snow to be found.Lift-served off piste is now relatively shark-free, and the pistes are holding up well.

The avalanche forecast gives a rating for 2/5 below 2200m, and 3/5 above, but that is almost certainly set to raise over the next few days, with a sudden spike in wind speeds from the south west and 30-40cm of new snow set to arrive. Constant but gentle south-westerlies for the last few days have started growing cornices over some north-east facing ridgelines at high altitude, and there will likely be significant windslab growing on the same aspect. Winds have been much more gentle lower down.There has also been significant risk in the moyenne-montagne recently on steeper south-facing slopes, wherever snow made heavy by recent rain or wet snow was given enough of a burn from blue skies and bright sun. But with clouds set to roll in and temperatures dropping, this risk should abate over the next few days.

Gesamteindruck

It has been hard enough to find good skiing over the last few weeks in Chamonix, and many people are still using their Joker card of going to Italy, where the coffee is cheaper, the pizza is better, and the snow is always great. But as ever, if you don't mind working for it, there is always something to enjoy here.In between the two foehn storms my dog, a few friends, and I spent a long day wandering around the Vallon de Tre Les Eaux in search for some sun-softened, and despite the wind-stripped approach and persistent clouds, after 1800m of ascent and traverse we got some pretty good turns in spring snow under the Pointe du Genevriere, then some cold, easy-angled powder on the glacier underneath the mighty north-east face of Mont Buet. Patchy snow low down, however, meant that instead of skiing straight down the usual river gorge, we had to take the summer walking trail home, with a short section of via ferrata to downclimb. No problem for the gnarliest dog in the Alps, though, in his brand-new Ruffwear climbing harness!Storms and work followed, but today a friend and I spent a happy few hours wading up the Col des Cristeaux in 30cm of decent soft snow, eager to squeeze something steep in before the south-west winds shut down the Argentiere north faces for a little while. We found frozen fingers, howling spindrift, and great skiing in swirling clouds. The weather is now rolling in again, and it feels cold outside. Finally, winter has arrived!