Snow report Chamonix, 01/02/2020

Snow condition

Goes worse but also better. Start at 1200m in Erigné on a cross-country ski trail with closed snow cover possible, but only because it goes into a shady valley. In the south-west exit to the Tete de Bossetan, grass looks out, especially near the ridge, as it has been blown free. No stone contact on the ascent and descent. Steep steps are a little more exposed compared to the annual average, but it is quite easy to get around. Before descending steep slopes with flat ground or larger rocks to be overcome, inform yourself well about the obstacles. Not all couloirs in the area have been skied so far. For good reason, as there is still 1-2 m of snow missing and the summit at 2400 m has been blown away.

Snow quality

Descent from 2400m to 2200m on the ridge mixture of grass and icy wind-compressed snow-1 star-entry over large cornices at 2200m the first 100m on the north side beautiful set powder snow. In the constriction, the route is lost but has good grip. From 1600 out of the gully again surfy where the sun could soften enough, a little later to the parking lot but again in the shade and hard and bad to ride crusty-harsh stuff.

Relaxed2 with a slight ascent during the day due to fresh drift snow with very strong winds from the south-west. The drifts are very far away from ridges and mostly only very small and superficial because there is hardly any loose snow. Everything is hard and consolidated. Large sliding snow on the east side, especially at low altitudes on steep grassy slopes. We were able to avoid this as far as possible. No drift snow in the couloir. I consider the risk of falling to be the greater danger. We were on terrain with a maximum gradient of 45 degrees. Crampons and ice axes remained in the backpack today, but are mostly indispensable for the other parallel and more exposed gullies to climb down the steep steps due to lack of snow and hard surfaces.

Overall impression

Somewhat disappointed by the conditions in the very sheltered and north-facing gully. It was actually best directly below the ridge. The Couloir Droite was a well-groomed, grippy slope with a short exposed traverse. All in all ok. Today many people also climbed the Dents Blanche (Dent Occidental side), which looked icy. Crampons, crampons and ice axes are a real recommendation for the next few days on most of the downhill runs in the region, which are worthwhile and somewhat steeper. Unfortunately, the prospects are poor. You can hope for stable firn. It wasn't that far today and the base is also missing in all exposures.