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adventure & travel

Las Cuevas, Pehuenche, Manantiales

Part 3 of Zach's South America Tour 2018

by Zach Paley 11/17/2018
In the last part of Zach's South America reports of this year's southern season, he takes us to lesser known corners of the Argentine Central Andes on spring tours with tents, lots of wind, rocks, good and not so good weather and mixed feelings about the end of winter in summer:

October is both my favorite and least favorite time of the year to ski. Life on expeditions is very simple: One need only to survive. Life on expeditions can also be very complex: One needs to survive. The rest of the ski world seems to catch its breath with the release of new gear, magazines, maybe a trip to the beach, or some early season low hanging fruit in the northern hemisphere. Meanwhile, we do our best to maintain motivation and positivity to keep skiing despite heavy backpacks, long approaches, early mornings, and bland camping food.

Despite the challenges, one of the greatest benefits is having these places to ourselves. The only dilemma is dealing with bad weather. I'd like to think we're getting smarter. Or at least less stubborn. When the forecast calls for conditions that don't warrant skiing, we opt to stay on the couch. This gets boring quickly though, and after nearly three weeks of bad weather that followed our Mantequillas camping trip, we were ready to go skiing.

The forecast was uncertain at best. It called for some sun, some clouds, and some wind. We opted to visit Las Cuevas, in between Santiago and Mendoza, as there was the option to stay at a simple hostel should we have a down day. It's important to note that this hostel didn't have much heat, so sleeping bags and warm clothes for downtime were a must.

While it wasn't exactly warm and cozy in the hostel, it had electricity, and space enough to hang out in, so it was better than a tent. I ride the bus through here twice a year on my way to and from Argentina, but it had been three years since getting to ski this area. It was a bittersweet four days of skiing. On one hand, it was nice to be on skis after so much downtime. It was great to be back around these mountains. And they provided several memorable descents. On the other hand, it was a lovely reminder of why it had been three years since last skiing here. The weather is memorably terrible and it snows very little here. LOTS of rocks were hit in these days of skiing. All in all it was a fun trip that set us up nicely for camping the following weekend at Pehuenche.

Paso Pehuenche is infamous for receiving lots of snow. However, it is not known for its terrain. Mellow, rolling hills that were caked with snow spread as far as the eye could see. However the steep runs and exciting, exposed faces we crave in the Andes were few and far between. We camped near a local termas (hot spring) one night and enjoyed soaking in the stone-lined pools, and slept out under the stars another night. By day three, we were bored with the terrain, and decided to move on. We had just enough time for one more camping trip. With a mixed forecast, but determined not to stay in Mendoza for yet another week, we packed the car and headed out to explore a valley none of us had visited before.

Manantiales is full of large terrain and is a fair bit higher than the places we had been skiing. We drove in late on the first day and slept at the snow line, approximately 3500m. The next day dawned with a cloud ceiling around 3000m that would stay between there and 3600m for the remainder of our trip as we skied the peaks above. We spent the next five days exploring what the terrain had to offer, and moved camp up to 3900m after day two to expedite the approach.

Pictures do better than I can for words. Though if I had to say something about conditions, there was a surprising amount of snow up there considering how rough a year in the Andes it has been. It could have been many things, though we suspect the cloudy and rainy weather we dealt with through September contributed to conditions. However it broke down, we had some of the best runs of October up here, logging one of the deepest runs of our Argentine winter. It's a good reminder that when you're willing to work hard in the mountains, they can give rewards in return.

Photo gallery

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