The Georgians call their country "Sakartwelo" the land of the Kartvelians and derive their origin from the mythical progenitor Kartlos, who they believe was one of Noah's great-grandchildren. The Kartvelian tribes are considered to be the original inhabitants of the Caucasus, with their own script and language. Located on the border between Asia and Europe, Georgia is a mosaic of different cultures and religions. Important trade routes such as the Silk Road ran through the middle of the country and brought Georgia into contact with the cultures of Egypt, Persia and Europe.
Georgia was the richest country in the former Soviet Union with a flourishing tourism industry and the number one tourist destination in Eastern Europe. When the country declared its independence from the Soviet Union at the end of March 1991 and tensions arose within the country, the Georgian economy collapsed to around a quarter. The country quickly became impoverished and it was only in recent years that the situation stabilized and Georgia was able to slowly recover from this fall. With the exception of the conflict areas of Abkhazia and South Ossetia, the situation in Georgia is generally calm. After the collapse of the Georgian economy and the resulting exodus, Svaneti became a place with a lot of crime, which affected both the locals and tourism. It was only after the Georgian army intervened in 2004 that the situation calmed down and today tourists can once again travel to Svaneti without any concerns.
The autonomous republics
Georgia has made headlines in recent years, particularly with the Caucasian War of 2008, a military conflict between Georgia on the one side and Russia and the republics of South Ossetia and Abkhazia on the other. The conflict was fought on Georgian territory. The open fighting between soldiers of the Georgian army and South Ossetian militia units began in July 2008 and escalated on the night of August 8, when Georgian units began an offensive to regain control of the entire region. Russian troops then intervened from the North Caucasus, pushing back the Georgian army and advancing into the Georgian heartland. By the time of the ceasefire on August 12, a total of around 850 people had been killed and between 2500 and 3000 wounded. Georgia is divided into twelve regions, with three of these regions claiming to be autonomous republics, which is a constant source of conflict. Abkhazia and South Ossetia are two disputed regions in the Caucasus, which refer to themselves as the Republic of Abkhazia and the Republic of South Ossetia. The two republics have declared their independence and are seeking international recognition. Georgia rejects the independence of the territories and regards them as occupied territories that belong to Georgia. Of the internationally recognized states, only Russia, Venezuela and Nicaragua have so far recognized the two republics. The two autonomous regions of Abkhazia and South Ossetia cannot be visited.
Politics
At the end of 2003, Mikheil Saakashvili forced the incumbent president to resign in a kind of soft revolution. At the beginning of 2004, he was elected president with an outstanding 96% of the vote. He fought corruption, had corrupt officials arrested and confiscated their illegally acquired property. In November 2007, there were demonstrations in Tbilisi with up to 100,000 participants from the opposition. Although they supported Saakashvili's policies, they did not support his authoritarian style of leadership. Tear gas, batons and water cannons were used against the demonstrators and a state of emergency was eventually declared. Saakashvili conceded early elections for January 2005, which he won with a narrow majority. At the moment, Saakashvili is being challenged in the next elections in 2013 by the richest man in the country, whose wealth is one and a half times the entire state budget.
Transport
Getting around in Georgia is uncomplicated. There are "marshrutkas" to almost all corners of the country for just a few "lari". You simply have to agree the price before you set off. This is especially true if you have a lot of luggage. It's also a good idea to find out the normal price from locals beforehand, as drivers usually try to charge tourists more. If you really do pay too much, it helps to simply get out of the car and start unloading.
If you want to travel to Gudauri cheaply, don't accept the cab drivers' offers. A cab ride from Tbilisi to Gudauri costs around 100 US dollars. If you take the public marshrutka, you pay 8 lari (about 4 SFr.)
The domestic flight Tbilisi-Mestia is operated by the Canadian "Kenn Borek Air". Reservations can be made by telephone, but no bookings are possible. Bookings are best made locally at the airport in Tbilisi. The flight in the propeller plane costs around 40 SFr.
Georgian helpfulness and hospitality
At first, you are almost a little scared. Many men on the streets make a grim and withdrawn impression. But when you start talking to them, you soon realize that behind this façade lies a warm and helpful soul. A smile quickly appears on your face, a question or request is met with a cell phone and everything is immediately arranged to make sure everything goes smoothly. The people in Georgia are extremely helpful.
"A guest was sent by God" - this is a Georgian proverb. Georgians are incredibly hospitable. And they like to celebrate with their guests. At these celebrations, it is customary to drink in the Georgian style. Someone at the table is given a bowl or a horn filled with wine or schnapps and a toast is made to the deceased, women, guests, the guests' country, friends or Georgia. You say "Gaumardshoss" loudly - cheers, then you drink to ex and the cup goes to the next person. This can often go on for several rounds. You don't have to join in the drinking, but if you don't say no emphatically, they'll just pour you a drink.
Accommodations
Hotels in Georgia can only be found in larger cities. In the countryside, there may be some kind of guesthouse, otherwise you simply stay with a family. Whereby staying is the wrong word, you live with a family. You are warmly welcomed and immediately integrated into family life, you become part of the family. In rural areas in particular, the inhabitants often have very few possessions and can hardly offer any comfort. Usually only one room in the house is heated with a wood-burning stove. The bedrooms often remain cold. There is no running water. Showering is limited to emptying a small bucket of water over your head. However, the hospitality of the families makes up for these (irrelevant) inconveniences.
Tbilisi and the sulphur baths
The Georgian name of the capital Tbilisi means "warm spring". On the north-eastern slopes of "Mtabori", hot, carbonated sulphur spring water gushes up to 46.5 °C from the earth, which has been used in bathhouses for centuries. The bathhouses offer a kind of massage where you are first rubbed with a rough, coarse-meshed cloth to remove old, dirty skin. Then you are soaped up and you can wash yourself and bathe in the pool. Just the thing after a five-week ski trip to finally get rid of the accumulated dirt and also very relaxing.
Daily routine
The Georgians seem to hate mornings. The whole day is pushed back a few hours compared to our conditions. The ski resort in Mestia doesn't open until 11 a.m., but the lifts run until six. In Tbilisi, you're still standing in front of a closed door at the bakery at 9 am.
I can highly recommend the following addresses for accommodation in Georgia:
- Bonney Hostel, Tbilisi near the "Mardshanashvili" metro station
- Eka's Guesthouse, Mestia
- Malchas and Shorena / Temuri and Lela, Ushguli
- Soso and Hatuna, Juta
Outro
Fate struck me like a blow. I staggered back, not realizing anything. The blow wasn't particularly painful, but that could have been due to the influence of alcohol. I grabbed my forehead and looked at my bloodied fingers. In this case, fate was a small stool that came flying across the room. In a heroic, selfless act, I held my head down so that no one would get hurt. The wound was quickly dressed with tobacco (!) and a plaster, then I was allowed to continue celebrating at the birthday party of a Georgian I had met a few hours earlier. The Georgians said that now you will always remember Georgia. How right they are, but it's not because of the scar on my forehead.
Georgia I love you! Gaumardshoss!Text and photos: Jonas Blum
