When winter slowly but inevitably comes to an end in the Alps, perhaps the best time of year for skiing adventures begins in northern Scandinavia. We have eight days to find the most beautiful slopes on the Lofoten Islands, 200 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle, with runs down to the seashore.
As our plane approaches Evenes at dusk, the evening light transforms the Lofoten Islands into a true fairytale landscape. The white elevations rise up out of the water like icebergs: one island after another as far as the eye can see.
At Evenes airport, there is a heavenly calm and no hustle and bustle. The small town of Evenes is too far away from civilization and the cities of Narvik and Harstad. A bit of pushing and shoving is necessary, then we actually get all our luggage into the rental car. It's hard to believe how big a Polo can be.
According to Google Map, it's two and a half hours to Kabelvag, our first destination. The small fishing village is the perfect starting point for ski tours in the Lofoten Islands. Maren, who runs the Lofoten Ski Lodge and Northern Alpine Guides together with her husband Seth, welcomes us happily. Tomorrow morning, some locals want to climb Geitgaljen. A good opportunity to get closer to the mountains with a local guide and make contact with the local ski community.
At 1085 meters, Geitgaljen is the highest ski mountain in Lofoten. It is the immediate neighbor of Higravstinden, which reaches 1146 meters into the sky from sea level, but cannot be skied on. The meeting point is at ten o'clock in the morning at one of the petrol stations in Svolvaer, the capital of Lofoten. We drive twenty minutes along the shore road to the small settlement of Liland on the banks of the Trollfjord, where we attach the climbing skins to our skis and set off.
There are basically three ascent options. The long east ascent, a steeper south couloir and the normal route. Our locals opt for the normal route. We gradually move away from Trolljford at a leisurely incline and immerse ourselves in the winter landscape of the Higravstinden massif. After half an hour, we reach the first steep step. The warm temperatures of the previous days, together with the night frost, have formed a crust. Crampons would be a good idea. But no one has them with them. So we put our skis on our backpacks for the first time and hike up the steep section on foot.
At the top of the steep section, we wait until our group has gathered. The view back over the fjord is magnificent. Time seems to be an unknown category here: The hands of the clock seem to stand still. On the high terrace, the ascent becomes easier again. Clack-clack-clack - the touring bindings set the pace with their familiar sound. We take a break below the second steep step. Rarely, or probably never before, have I enjoyed such a delicious salmon sandwich with such a view.
Above the second step, we catch sight of the summit for the first time. It doesn't seem far away. Meter by meter, as we push one ski in front of the other, the terrain becomes more alpine. No wonder the locals call this mountain range the Lofoten Alps.
The third steep slope up to the ridge is another tough one. In changing snow conditions, we work our way up turn after turn until we can go no further on skis. We shoulder our poles for the last 80 vertical meters and climb up through the flank to the ridge. 100 vertical meters separate us from the summit, the 100 most exposed. While the locals leave their skis on the ridge, we reattach ours to our backpacks. Admittedly, the steep final ascent doesn't exactly look like powder snow, but we still don't want to miss the chance to ski straight down from the summit.
With ice axes, we continue to work our way up and have to wait a few minutes to let a group pass on the descent. Above a block of ice, we turn left, circle the summit structure and reach the cross after a few minutes. Wow. What a view. Deep down in the valley, the waves of the Trollfjord glisten and the pointed summit ridge of Higravstinden rises up on the right. We keep pulling out our cameras. For my part, I can hardly put the beauty of this majestic landscape into words.
Then it's time to prepare for the descent. With 50 degrees at the steepest point, we have to concentrate briefly for the summit climb. It had been icy on the ascent. We glide carefully towards the steep section. Four or five jumpturns and we reach the summit slope, where we actually plough a few powder turns into the snow.
We choose the east route as the next descent from the ski depot. We are too late for the south couloir. No reason to risk an accident on such a beautiful day. The biggest advantage of the eastern route is its length. The route winds its way through wide cirques around Geitgaljen down to the fjord. A wide gully, a few turns through the sparse trees and finally a stop turn right on the beach. What a start to our trip north.
After a pleasantly tiring 1100 vertical meters, we settle down on the terrace in front of our hut in the Lofoten ski lodge. The small fishing boats dance on the waves like buoys. A barbecue would be perfect right now. Unfortunately, we don't have one to hand, but we do have a cold beer. And afterwards, well, there's probably a long evening waiting with our new friends from Kabelvag.
