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Freeride tour of the week | Punta Penia - Parete Nord

Over the north face to the highest point of the Dolomites

by Christian Skala 02/23/2014
The Marmolada not only has a lot to offer climbers, skiers also get their money's worth on this mighty ridge. A particular highlight for steep face skiers is the north face of the highest peak, Punta Penia.

The Marmolada not only has a lot to offer climbers, skiers also get their money's worth on this mighty ridge. A particular highlight for steep face skiers is the north face of the highest peak, Punta Penia.

Ascent

Take the basket cable car to the Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi at 2625 m. When planning your tour, you should check in advance whether the lift is in operation. From the hut, cross in a westerly direction (past a prominent rock spur) until you are below the north face of the Marmolada. Climb further south into the basin to the north face. Once you reach the north face, there are two ways to continue the ascent. Either you climb directly through the north face or you cross to the west and climb in many hairpin bends over an east-facing slope to the northwest shoulder. Depending on the conditions, this steep section may also have to be tackled on foot. The route continues along the north-western flank, becoming increasingly flatter towards the summit of Marmolada Punta Penia. Caution: If the ascent is not through the wall, you should take a good look at and memorize the entrance to the wall and the descent variant during the ascent!

Descent

From the summit, after a few meters of descent, it goes over a rock band into the north face. The entrance to the wall should have been carefully practiced during the ascent! Once at the base of the wall, follow the ascent tracks towards Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi and from there via the off-piste terrain or the ski slope back to the parking lot.

Information

Difficulty (5-level scale): *****
Particular dangers: Steep wall, only start in absolutely safe conditions!
Equipment:Crampons, crampons, ice axe (ice tools), helmet, rope, basic glacier and climbing equipment
Exposure: North
Altitude difference start and finish: 2625 m | 2074 m
Altitude difference uphill and downhill: approx. 750 hm | approx. 1300 hm
Duration: About 4 hours, the time required depends heavily on the conditions.
Best time of year: Spring
Accommodation: Various accommodation options at the Fedaia reservoir or in Canazei
Addresses: Information on lift operation can be found here
Book tip: "Freeride in Dolomiti" by Francesco Tremolada (Versante Sud, Milano 2009)
How to get there: From Canazei on the SP641 to the Fedaia reservoir. Parking at the valley station of the basket lift
Topographic maps: Tabacco hiking map, sheet 06 (Val di Fassa) - scale 1:25,000 or Tabacco hiking map, sheet 07 (Alta Vadia - Arabba - Marmolada) - scale 1:25,000

Photo gallery

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