This tour is particularly recommended in spring, firstly because it is an extremely steep (ice) wall and secondly because the very long descent can be shortened accordingly depending on the snow conditions.
Ascent
You usually start from the third (with a bit of luck from the fifth) hairpin bend of the Pfitscher Joch pass road. In an easterly direction, the skis are usually shouldered for the time being and, depending on the snow conditions, the skis are then skinned up from Issen-Boden or Griesebenkar. As the route becomes steeper and steeper, you pass the Günther Messner bivouac (2430 m) and the foot of the imposing Hochferner north face. After a short flat section, you ascent relatively steeply to the left to the Grießscharte (2811 m). From there, either descent briefly or descent to the glacier floor. With a slight gain in altitude, you then climb up to a small notch and reach the rugged Schlegeiskees. From here, you have an unobstructed view of the north face, which is again approached with a slight gain in altitude.
The entrance to the wall is sometimes difficult due to the ever-increasing crevasse. Initially, the steepness is usually only 45 degrees, but then increases relatively quickly to up to 55 degrees and can become a real physical challenge. After successfully exiting the wall, the summit can be reached via an initially wide, later exposed, steep ridge.
