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TouringTip | Hockenhorn and the shadowy world of the Gasteretal valley

Short ascent from the lift followed by a long, steep descent. Plus a crossing from the Valais into the Bernese Oberland.

by Daniel Schweiss 04/15/2012
The Lötschental now enjoys a big fan crowd and yet things are a lot more relaxed here than in many other freeride areas on this and the other side of the Lötschberg, which also forms the cultural border between the Valais and Bernese Oberland. The later in the year you make the pilgrimage here, the fewer freeriders and therefore potential competitors you will encounter. There is a good reason for this, as the varied terrain around the Lauchernalp is mostly south-facing and therefore anything but a powder guarantee in spring. Turning away from the sunny side of the Valais is the Bernese territory: the shadowy world of the deep-cut Gasteretal valley, which hides some of the best and most easily accessible steep descents. However, there is one small drawback to the story; but more on that after the descent...

Tour description

The starting point of the freeride descent is the mountain station of the Hockenhorngratbahn at approx. 3110 metres. Here you follow the mostly well-trodden track under the Hockenhorn towards the Lötschenpass. This traverse with subsequent descent to the Lötschenpass hut and onwards via the Gitzifurggu to Leukerbad is particularly popular in spring. At the gap in front of the Klein Hockenhorn, you have the opportunity to pay a short visit to its big brother via the less difficult west ridge. If the snow conditions are good, you can also take your skis with you, as you can ski straight down from the summit if the snow conditions and ability align. On the 3293 m high summit, you can enjoy a sweeping panorama in all directions. Predicate: It's a must!

But now to the actual reason why we took the long journey to the remote Lötschental. Even on the descent from the Hockenhorn, you can see the almost vertical walls of the Hockenhorn range. Only 1700 metres further down do the abrupt drops merge into the flat valley floor of the Gasteretal. At this point, you may doubt your intentions, but there is actually a passable line, in fact several, through this labyrinth of vertical rock. Just below the Klein Hockenhorn, a narrow strip of snow (be careful in early winter, as it is often blown out and interspersed with rock) leads into the depths, somewhat hidden and wedged between two rocky ledges. When you stand at the start of the couloir, your heart may drop, as you can't see where this channel will spit you out at first. After a few technical turns in the perhaps 40° steep entrance, the narrow couloir becomes even steeper until it reaches 45°.

At around 3000 m, the couloir opens up into a short slope, which immediately breaks off into rocks again after a few turns. You should therefore not allow yourself a fall up to this point. At this point you cross skiers' right and now have a free field for big turns through a wide bowl up to a striking terrain transition south of the Burstegge at approx. 2460 metres. At this point, the fall line plunges into steep slopes of around 40°, which once again narrow into a striking couloir.

Once you've made it through this passage, the wide and less steep slopes at Schönbüel invite you to make big turns. Now the whole line reveals itself and it's as if the scales have fallen from your eyes that there is still a line or two to ride. From Schönbüel, follow the Leitibach on its western side. If you thought the fun was over at Schönbüel, you are about to be disabused. Because now the descent leads through sparse, north-facing forest for another 500 metres of playful inclination towards the valley floor at Selde. By now, it's high time for a break and to study the north faces of the Hockenhorn-Sackhorn-Elwertätsch chain, where the trained eye can still discover many more lines.

As I said, the whole thing has a flaw, and it's not without reason that the Gasteretal receives hardly any visitors in winter: after around one and a half hours of pushing out and carrying skis to Eggeschwand (hourly bus connection to Kandersteg station), you know why... Nevertheless, these lines are well worth the effort and the Gasteretal is hard to beat in terms of wildness and remoteness. Alternatively, in good snow conditions, you can climb approx. 700 metres from Schönbüel to the Lötschenpass and ski a further 1300 metres southwards to Ferden. Caution: The return ascent leads through exposed eastern slopes below the impressive east face of the Balmhorn, which is prone to avalanches.

Conclusion

A very varied, challenging freeride tour that is like a short ski safari from Valais to the Bernese Oberland. Provided the conditions are safe, it offers a lot of fun and challenging and you are virtually guaranteed a "first line". Where else can you find that? There are other options for lovers of steep, exposed couloirs, but I won't reveal them (yet)... ;)
 

Information

5 (5-level scale): ****
Special dangers: Entry couloir, very steep, exposed terrain
Average steepness/maximum steepness: 35°/ 45°
Exposure: W-N
Altitude metres start and finish: 3293 m | 1200 m
Altitude metres uphill and downhill: 200 m | 2050 m
Duration: 3.5 hours
Best time of year: February - May

Accommodation: Various in the Lötschental, recommended: "Hotel Bietschhorn" in Kippel
Addresses:Lötschental Tourist Office Directions: To Wiler, Lötschental - Lötschberg car transport via Kandersteg or public transport via Bern - Thun - Spiez - Goppenstein
Topographical maps: National map 1:25.000: 1268 Lötschental
Book tip: SAC Skitouren Berner Alpen Ost

 

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