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TouringTip | Toula Glacier

A special freeride treat in an impressive high mountain landscape

by German Wehinger 12/14/2016
Anyone dreaming of a descent over 2,000 m (almost) without an ascent will find what they are looking for on the Toula glacier in Courmayeur. Today, the new and modern gondola lift transports downhill-hungry freeriders to the 3,400 m high Punta Helbronner in no time. Although you will notice the thin air and the quick ascent, this is quickly forgotten at the sight of the imposing, glaciated high mountain landscape. There are a number of options for descending into the valley, either to the south, back to Courmayeur, or to the other side of the Mont Blanc massif to Chamonix. We opted for the "standard option", via the Toula glacier to Courmayeur.

Ascent and descent

Until two seasons ago, Punta Helbronner was served by a small, nostalgic gondola lift from the 1940s. Today, the new "Skyway" holds significantly more people and with a 360° panorama, it takes you from the valley to a high alpine, glaciated mountain landscape via 2 stations. The view immediately makes everyone realize the enormous potential of possible descents. But we, and what felt like a thousand others, opted for a standard descent today, with access via a seemingly ancient staircase to the Toula glacier. Before that, you first have to hike or walk a short distance to the north-west before rounding a rocky outcrop and covering a few more meters to the south-west. You can now actually see the aforementioned staircase, but in our case the extremely strong wind transforms the landscape into a wild snowflurry. These surreal conditions made it necessary to abseil over a snow lip. 30 meters below, the whole spook was over. On a small plateau, an impressive view opens up over the Aosta Valley with its snow-covered mountains. Finally, the route continues down the stairs to the Toula Glacier.

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After what felt like an eternity in the queue with a hundred other people, we reached the start of the glacier and were finally able to strap on our skis. We opted for a standard skiers' right route. Over perfectly inclined slopes, we first headed south, then south-east towards the pavilion (the middle station at approx. 2,100 m). Due to the southern exposure, the snow is already noticeably heavier and also slightly wind-pressed. Despite the seemingly easy terrain, you should not forget that you are on a glacier, so glacier equipment is mandatory. After a flow descent of over 1,200 m with fantastic views and warming rays of sunshine, we reach the pavilion. Here we have to decide whether to take the gondola up again or continue towards the valley. We are tempted by the further 900 m and a short, shady couloir towards the valley. So we head briefly north-east again from the middle station before heading east and reaching a wide, not too steep couloir. The snow is still powdery and grippy. The couloir first leads us into a wide valley, then we follow the road to the valley station of the Monte Bianco gondola.

While enjoying a well-earned cappuccino in one of the many cafés in Courmayeur, our gaze wanders back to the glaciated 4,000-metre peaks. We catch sight of our downhill line on the Toula glacier and it's then when we feel the adrenaline kick in again and start raving about the many possible lines from Pointe Helbronner.

Information

Difficulty (5-level scale): ***
Special dangers: Crevasses, rockfalls and possible avalanches from the steep flanks.
Average steepness/maximum steepness: <30°/ 40°-45° (variant)
Exposure: SE
Altitude start and finish: 3.400 m | 1,300 m
Altitude difference uphill and downhill: approx. 10 m| 2,100 m
Duration: 1.5-2 h
Best time of year: January-March
Addresses:Funivia Monte Bianco
How to get there: via Chaminox through the Mont Blanc Tunnel or through the Aosta Valley to Entreves
Topographic maps: Swisstopo Ski Touring Map 492-S: Monte Blanc
Other recommendations:stable weather conditions, check Monte Bianco travel times, glacier equipment
Literature:
Freeride Guide of the Alps Courmayeur Mont Blanc Freeride

Infostand: Spring 2016.

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