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TouringTip | Wildspitze Southcouloir

The most direct line to the highest peak in Tyrol

by Malte Schulz • 04/27/2024
For many ski tourers, the Wildspitze is a favourite classic in spring. The summit can be reached quickly via the Mittelbergjoch and the Taschachferner via the Pitztal glacier lifts. The only drawback of this tour: due to the very low gradient, it is not very rewarding in terms of downhill skiing. In terms of the descent, the tour via the Southcouloir is much more appealing (assuming you have the ability and experience to tackle steep slopes). This route takes you to the highest peak in Tyrol "by fair means" and by the most direct route.


In good snow conditions, the tour starts in the valley from Vent via the ski pistes to the mountain station of the Stablein lift. From there, the route continues in a north-westerly direction to the Breslauer Hütte. Later in the year, when the south-facing slopes are already more snow-covered, the ascent can also be made from the Rofenhöfe via the very steep summer path (this route is not recommended in snowy conditions!).

After the Breslauer Hütte, the route continues flat into the Mitterkarkar. Before the end of the Mitterkarferner is even reached, the route branches off towards the broad southern flank. Depending on the conditions, the lower and middle sections can still be easily climbed on skis and in hairpin bends, but the steep final gully requires an ascent on foot (with crampons) at the latest. It is usually best to exit on the left in the direction of ascent, as the direct exit is even steeper and there is often a large cornice above it. The exit of the gully is almost at the ski depot of the "normal route". If you still want to take the summit with you, you can reach it in a short, easy scramble (I) via the west ridge.

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It is advisable to take a look at the desired location for the entrance to the gully during the ascent. A direct drop-in is possible depending on the height of the cornice, but it is easier to enter about 20 metres further from the side (west). The uppermost part of the gully has a gradient of around 45-50 degrees for the first 100 metres and then continues to flatten out. Good snow conditions are recommended for the uppermost section. If you don't want to ski the uppermost, steepest part of the gully, you can bypass it much further west and then ski Riders Left towards the south flank (green line in the overview image).

Below the flank, you then descent along the ascent path. Depending on the snow conditions, the pistes of the ski resort are recommended, or late in winter without snow the steep summer path on foot to Rofen.


Valley town: Vent (1895m)

Summit: Wildspitze (3768m)

Ascent: 1900hm

Slope: 40-50 degrees in the upper part of the gully, rest more flat

Exposition: South

Best time of year: Around mid-March - early May

Duration: Approx. 6 - 8 hours

Note: The PG touring tips are general descriptions of tours that we like subjectively. Our touring tips do NOT refer to CURRENT CONDITIONS. Read the avalanche bulletin and the weather forecast and plan your tour accordingly.

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This article has been automatically translated by DeepL with subsequent editing. If you notice any spelling or grammatical errors or if the translation has lost its meaning, please write an e-mail to the editors.

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