SpotCheck | Eastern Sierra

At some point in early 2017, it was clear: there is very little snow in the Alps, but lots and lots in California. A friend who had emigrated to California had been raving about the Eastern Sierra for years and, in combination with the frustration of constant contact with rocks at home, this was finally reason enough for an Easter vacation in the USA.

We set off from San Francisco to Tahoe in a rental car to "drive in" for two days. The mountains here are rather rounded, usually with a steep side, and more or less forested right to the top. Frank, Tahoe local and a friend of the friend who emigrated, takes care of us and shows us one of the classic tours at the south end of Lake Tahoe. Powder, sun, a proper base: our first day of skiing in California couldn't be better.

After a second day of touring in Tahoe, we head south towards Mammoth and the "real" Eastern Sierra. The drive leads along the mountains rather than through them. The further east you go on the winding road, the drier it is. To the left, the landscape is steppe-like, and at some point the bizarre rock formations at Monolake appear. To the left, to the east, it is sunny. To the right, however, there is a wall of cloud. The snow begins just below the clouds and gives an idea of the steep ascent.

Mammoth lies behind the wall of cloud at 2400m. While it felt more like spring at Monolake, it is undoubtedly winter here. We slide into the parking lot of our motel in the rental car and flee inside from the biting wind and horizontal snowfall.

The next day is sunny, but still very windy. On Frank's recommendation, we start it with breakfast croissants at Schat's Bakery. The croissants are about three times the size of the usual croissants in Europe and are filled with bacon and scrambled eggs. Afterwards, you will not want to eat anything for a while. Ideal as a ski tour base, provided you don't get too sick.

The next morning, it quickly becomes clear that the road has not yet been cleared very far up. A clearing vehicle, rising only slightly above the piled-up walls of snow, didn't seem quite up to the task. Frank assures us as we pass by:

"Yes, yes, in two weeks it will be cleared up to the back, then it's Fishmas!"

"Fishmas?"

"Yes, that's when the anglers come, that's when the season starts. It's a huge event! We'll clear it for them, of course!"

Since we're not anglers and are two weeks early, we lug our backpacks up the valley for what feels like a marathon distance, with Cox Col always in sight. Somehow it just doesn't come any closer.

The sun is blazing, despite the relatively cold temperatures. Frank has a kind of diving mask with a shield cap, which he bought especially for tours in the Eastern Sierra. We make do with hats and bandanas and all look like hooded bank robbers who have fallen into an outdoor brand paint pot.

Frank's ambitions to take on the very tempting Cat's Ears Couloir on the way to Cox Col quickly melt away in view of the almost 20-kilometre route and 1600m, especially because the snow from the last storm has barely settled and the rest of the group is already pretty much on their last legs. The last few meters up the 3960m high col are tackled on foot - after the long, flat march up the valley, the steeper terrain is definitely welcome - and there is still just under an hour of sun left to descent at the back and look for a campsite.

400 meters further down, next to the frozen and snow-covered plain of Lake Italy, we pitch our tents on a large rock. If it gets windy, we'll be sheltered here. At least that's what we tell ourselves. Everyone is too tired to look for a better spot any longer. Flattened by the kilometers, the altitude, the weight of our backpacks and the size of the mountains, we crawl into our sleeping bags. Frank assures us: Apart from us, there's not a soul around here for at least 15 kilometers.

For the next day, he has his eye on the north couloir at Feather Peak. Feather Peak is another valley away and we hike to the next pass again in the burning sun and with cold feet (frozen ski boots are an experience every time!). Feather Peak, like many of the more prominent peaks here, is a kind of broad granite tower that forms several needles at the top. Between two of the needles is the impressive couloir. Unfortunately, an equally impressive crack runs right through it. In view of the still relatively awkward approach and the snow conditions, which do not inspire much confidence, we veto this route.

Not that I'm complaining about powder, but: if I were to visit the Eastern Sierra again, and I'd love to, I'd schedule my visit a little later in the season. In a good winter, the snow at high altitudes lasts into midsummer and from the end of April, Frank and the Bible claim, there are reliably great firn conditions that allow for steeper undertakings.

Conclusion

The Eastern Sierra offers almost endless ski touring potential. In addition to easily accessible options directly or almost directly next to the road (here, too, you can choose between easy and quite challenging), the difficulty and remoteness can be extended at will the further you go into the Sierra. Nevertheless, compared to other mountain regions, everything remains reasonably accessible, as access is not significantly blocked by anything (e.g. forest or complex glaciers). Multi-day trips with a tent are by no means necessary to reach highly interesting terrain. Tahoe is of course also worth a longer visit.