Logbook entry: 22-25.09. Upcoming stage: Chur - Oberalp Pass - Cadlimo Hut
Day 11, 23.9: Cadlimo Hut - Airolo - Nufenen Pass - Gries Pass - Domodossolla - Lago d'Orta
Alpine surprises, Geographical low point
After a promising, sunny start to the trail down to Airolo, it's straight back on the Postbus to the Nufenen Pass. I continue over the Gries Pass to Domodossola in Italy, on the south side of the Simplon Pass. Now it's time to eat up the kilometers. My feet kick me all the way to Lago d'Orta. At just 200 m above sea level, I reach the geographical low point of the trip.
Day 12, 24.9: Lago d'Orta - Varallo - Alagna - Rif. Vige Vano
Today's destination is Alagna. After a quick 800-metre pass on tarmac, I reach Varallo. Another 50 km of road and 1000 meters of elevation gain await me. No, not with me today. I'm going to try hitchhiking! I set myself a deadline of 2.30 p.m. - if no one stops by then, I won't go via Alagna, but by train directly to Valtournenche-Cervinia. 30 seconds before the deadline, I pack my things, but raise my thumb once more. Suddenly the brakes come on hard behind me. Manuel, a "mountain pasture manager" around 35 years old, gives me a lift in his work vehicle, a slightly outdated dark green Jeep.
With his upper body free, wearing thick black Ray Ban sunglasses, he opens the tailgate with a courageous kick on the bumper. Quickly inside the bike and the cyclist. About 40 minutes of tire squeal later, another kick on the bumper, tailgate open, bike out of the car. Thanks for the ride, Manuel.
From the mountain station at Passo Salati, I slowly roll downhill through a desert of fog and rocks. I feel slightly uncomfortable here. Visibility down to the last nub of the front wheel, oppressive humidity and otherwise just a slippery stone desert beneath me. After 2 minutes I come to two refugios. The Refugio Gugliemina is bright orange and privately run. An overnight stay with half board costs 50. I ask the manager if there is a cheaper option, perhaps with a dormitory. The maestro points slightly to the left with an outstretched arm, saying that there is an Alpine Club hut 15 meters away.
I trust him. And lo and behold, just before I hit it, I see the old but rustic CAI hut "Vige Vano" 5 meters in front of me.
As soon as I check in, I notice that it's not exactly busy here in the middle of the ski area. Two hours later, I'm sitting at the dinner table with just the hosts Matteo and Alberto. There are no other guests here today.
For dinner, there is bruschetta, pasta, schnitzel with cheese, bacon and chocolate cake. I savor the full-bodied red wine from Piemonte and the grappa "Liquirizia" through the short cloudy window with an incredible view of the Monte Rosa massif and the sea of clouds below us. An ibex also appears just a few meters from the hut.
Day 13, 25.9: Rif. Vige Vano - Champoluc - Gressoney - Rif. Grande Tournalin
I'm having really bad weather again today. Although it's not raining and it's not really cold either, I was still hoping for more from the Monte Rosa South Circuit than an impenetrable soup of fog. When there is no panorama, there is more time to concentrate on the trails. I'm making good progress and hope to tackle the big transition between Cervinia and Zermatt tomorrow.