Fjord skiing in Norway

Ålesund is one of the most important fishing ports in Norway and is spectacularly beautifully situated across several islands in the west of the country. In the town center, the many well-preserved Art Nouveau houses are immediately noticeable, which are more reminiscent of German old towns than a Norwegian fishing town. "The German Emperor Wilhelm II's enthusiasm for Norway and a major fire at the beginning of the twentieth century are to blame. He patronizingly offered his help and had the center rebuilt in the style of stone Art Nouveau houses. One of these houses was stylishly converted into the Hotel Brosundet. You practically fall out of bed straight onto the 'Maud' moored on the quay: and are greeted with a broad grin by skipper and ski tour guide Arne Fagerhaug - even though it is far too early, far too dark and far too cold. But that only seems to bother the German guests.

As befits a true sailor, he has of course not spent the night in a fancy hotel, but in the much too small, freezing cold cabin below deck. "There's nothing better than being rocked to sleep by the sea!" says Arne, who is undoubtedly one of those Norwegians who spend most of their time outdoors - whatever the weather. He has been exploring the fjords and mountains around Ålesund in summer and winter for almost 40 years. His father took him on his first ski tour at the tender age of 12. At a time when only a few dozen people in the area thought about ski mountaineering. He was particularly fond of the Hjørundfjord and the Sunnmøre Alps. A few years ago, he and his buddy Stein Magne came up with the idea of using his old ship 'Maud' - converted into a fishing boat - for hiking, climbing and ski touring trips. The company 'ACTIN your adventure' was founded over a glass of wine. A pleasant side effect of the collaboration: every evening, guests are served freshly caught fish, prepared on the barbecue right in front of the cabin - because during the day, Stein Magne indulges in his hobby and fishes in the fjord while Arne lets off steam in the mountains with the guests.

To this day, only a few dozen families live on the shores of the Hjørundfjord. No wonder the older residents have so much respect for the mountains and react with initial incomprehension towards ski tourers. Nonetheless, they open their windows with curiosity, are happy to see the unexpected visitors, enquire about their well-being and wish them every success on their mountain adventure. Open, warm and relaxed, as Norwegians usually are. The group makes its way to the first summit in high spirits. The skis still have to be strapped to the backpack up to an altitude of two hundred meters, as it often doesn't snow as far as the fjord in April. However, Arne promises the best snow conditions at higher altitudes.

The mountains are not high compared to the European Alps, but for the longest part of the winter you are skiing directly at sea level. In this respect, the 1092 metres of the 'Schweinespitze' (Norwegian: Svinetind) are a good acclimatization destination. Nevertheless, after a quick descent to the frozen Storevatnet lake, the tour is spontaneously extended to include a second summit, Rametinden. And Arne didn't promise too much: The descents are quite something and the snow is more reminiscent of Canadian conditions than April ski days in the Alps. The great snow is a pleasant side effect of the northern, near-pole location. As is the long-lasting daylight - even in mid-April, the sun doesn't set until around 8.30 pm and the day offers an incredible 14 hours to let off steam in the mountains.

Back on the 'Maud', the lines are untied and Arne surprises us with Norwegian tradition and a casual attitude: a barbecue is mounted directly on the railing of the wooden boat! The cold wind quickly fanned the embers and soon salmon and the home-made venison sausages he had been given by the two locals were sizzling. It is already clear why Kaiser Wilhelm became a Norwegian lover. The further we go into the Hjørundfjord on the way to Sæbø, the higher and steeper the surrounding mountains become - the peaks are now up to 1600 meters high. After landing, we move into our accommodation right by the water in the rustic wooden cabins of the Sagafjord Hotel. Grass-covered roofs and thick wooden walls provide the right insulation - in some cases for over 200 years. As always, Stein Magne has been fishing successfully and the fresh fish is served in front of the open fire. Afterwards, the tour for the next day is discussed over a glass of wine. This time it's off to the starting point in Kvistadsætra by car.

But the trip is already over at 200 m above sea level because there is already too much snow to continue. From here, it's a six-kilometre hike to the summit of Skårasalen - at 1542 m, already one of the higher mountains in the Sunnmøre Alps. The effort is rewarded with a magnificent view along the steeply sloping Kvistadkjerringane ridge and down to the fjord. Now it becomes clear why Arne recommended the ascent from the west side: In Skår, Stein Magne then picks us up again with the 'Maud', as we can descent almost to the water! Heading east, the valley of the Litle Skåradalen leads directly to the fjord. The descent offers great and consistently steep terrain, which makes every skier's heart beat faster. Only the short walk to the landing stage in Skår can be a problem if you don't quickly find the narrow path on which you have to cross the stream several times. It's easy to end up backwards in the ice-cold water. The only advantage: already soaked, the decision to jump from the railing of the 'Maud' into the (rather) cool water of the fjord is no longer so difficult ...