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adventure & travel

Snowed in! A winter trip through Greece

Hard to believe, but true: more snow than we would have liked...

by Christian Skala 12/17/2013
Skiing in Greece, what a load of rubbish...! That was the first thing I thought when Andy told me about skiing in Greece. But when he showed me some impressive photos, it was clear: we should go there one day!

After years, the time had come, the snow conditions were right, so we booked spontaneously - and off we went to Greece to ski... The three of us set off from Munich to Thessaloniki in a snow chaos. Once there, we were picked up by Michalis (a top Greek mountaineer), whom Andy had met on his last visit. Michalis wanted to accompany us on our trip. So everything was packed into his car and we set off on our unusual trip!

Winter trip Greece

So we headed to our first stop in Vasilitsa in pleasant temperatures. After several hours of driving with a short stop at the fire station to recharge our airbag cartridges, we drove up the pass to Vasilitsa and, to our great delight, the color of the landscape quickly changed from brown to snow-white. That proved it: There is snow in Greece and not too little! Our euphoria rose steadily during the journey. Finally, we arrived at a very busy lodge with lots of party people, where we spent the next few days. We entered, briefly introduced ourselves and were immediately integrated. Lots of questions awaited us, as no one could understand what had attracted us to Greece to go skiing! "The Alps are a skiing paradise, we don't understand you etc." However, we were able to explain our motivation for this trip very quickly: there are far fewer people here in Greece compared to the crowded Alps and it was a great excitement and challenge for us to see what awaited us. In addition, the Greeks are considered to be very friendly hosts, which was a not insignificant reason for our trip. Of course, all the locals were very happy about this and we ourselves were delighted that we were so warmly welcomed straight away! After an intensive first Greek meal with lots of lamb and pork, which was delivered as soon as it was finished, and numerous beers, we went to spend the night in the neighboring camper with a full stomach (the lodge was already full on the first night).

More photos from Karpenisi in the gallery


The next morning: the hangover was beaten and we naturally wanted to see the area in daylight as soon as possible. Lots and lots of snow - but wait: why is it actually raining right now? Great, why does a low pressure system have to come from the south just when we are there? Anyway, so we set off in the rain with a Greek local on our first exploration tour in mixed snow conditions. Luckily, it got a little colder and the snow line dropped again and snow fell instead of rain. The next day, the sun finally shone and there was fresh snow! So we quickly set off for the lifts. And yes, it was fine, very fine! Freeriding in the ski resort without the usual crowds. Where else can you find that in the Alps? After the first really good runs, we rounded off the day with a group of Swiss people who also happened to be in the area, at a legendary apres-ski evening. The Swiss and we partied with the locals to Greek folk music. We danced the sirtaki and drank the odd tsipouro. Nobody stayed seated or looked for a way home. Sounds a bit strange, but it was extremely funny. At the end of the day, everyone was happy and will remember this legendary evening for a long time to come.

Greek hospitality in general is simply sensational and the food is amazing. We were allowed to go out to eat with the locals every day and were served the finest food: Fish, lamb, pork, soups until our bellies were more than full. The food always came directly from the region and was therefore fresh and tasted just as good. Only the best for our friends! It is impressive that the Greeks have lost none of their hospitality despite their country's financial problems. They would have loved to cover all our expenses. A trip to Vasilitsa is particularly worthwhile when the snow conditions are very good. With lift support and skins, you can do some really nice things. After a few tours in ever-changing weather conditions, however, we packed up our tents and set off on a longer journey to Karpenisi. On the journey, you could clearly see Greece's financial problems: There were countless for sale signs along the road - you could buy almost anything from houses to tractors. Occasionally, you could even see a cluster of self-built huts in which socially disadvantaged people were settling. The Greeks we met on our trip were very open about this topic and answered our questions accordingly. Many people - including academics - are currently unable to find a job after their studies and have decided to make the best of their situation, namely to do what they see as their vision. The people we met, for example, work in the ski resorts, earn enough money there to cover their accommodation and meals for the season and go skiing.

Winter trip Greece

After a day's drive, we arrived in Karpenisi late at night. There was virtually no snow in the village itself: oh dear, where had we ended up? Fortunately, we drove further up the pass road and a white wall soon appeared next to the road. Once we reached the top of the pass, our mountain hut was just a few meters away. There were numerous pictures of the area that awaited us and our curiosity was aroused. We had already been informed of the first tour options and so it was time for a quick beer and off to bed! We wanted to be fit for the next day. The conditions were good: blue skies, plenty of sunshine and attractive high alpine terrain. The pictures from the previous evening didn't promise too much. The skins were quickly put on the skis and off we went. Our first destination was a very impressive flank that turned into a couloir. The view at the summit was a dream and the descent was also something special: steep, not too wide, simply fantastic. So the skins were used again and this time we chose a very long descent with great views that ended exactly at a pass road with the last remnants of snow. We were soon picked up there by our Greek friends with a few refreshing drinks - a welcome service! You could easily get used to it. On the way back to the hut, we could already see a possible destination for the next day. So the next day, full of euphoria, we drove a few kilometers by car to the object of our desire. Unfortunately, the weather got worse as the tour progressed and the ascent became more and more strenuous. The sun disappeared and made the south-west-facing ascent, which became increasingly hard and icy, a test of patience. Once we reached the summit with crampons, not only had the sun disappeared, but visibility was already somewhat limited. There was also an unpleasant wind whistling at the summit. The motto was to descend quickly. Unfortunately, the downhill fun suffered a little this time due to the weather, but this hardly detracted from the beautiful tour.

On our last evening in Greece, there was a Dynafit event where we wanted to round off the trip with our Greek friends. However, we were suddenly informed that the pass to the hut would be closed soon due to fresh snow and wind. This put an end to the cosiness and now the motto was: get to the cars and up to the hut as quickly as possible! We soon realized that the news was indeed justified! We soon had to use four-wheel drive or snow chains to get any further and a strong wind was blowing. We weren't expecting the worst yet. So the next day we packed our things, but we were quickly informed that the pass would probably not open today! That can't be right, is that definitely the case? We have to go to the airport! After the first few minutes of shock and a few glances outside the cabin, it became quite clear to us that we had a "small" problem. After many phone calls, however, our Greek friends found a solution for us: in the late afternoon there might be a weather window in which we could ski down the pass road with our luggage until there was no more snow and a cab would be waiting there to take us to the nearest train station. From there, we could travel on to Athens by train. After a brief discussion in the group, our decision was made: we wanted to try it! Fortunately, we were just able to rebook the flight. It's a bit strange when you call your boss and tell them that you probably won't be at work on Monday because you're snowed in in Greece (nobody believes you)... Then it was already time: the weather window arrived, so we had to say goodbye quickly and off we went on the unusual ski descent with our luggage to the cab. We were again helped with the transportation of the luggage and the Greeks skied with us to the cab and then walked back to the hut with the skins. After a very quick cab ride (the cab driver had a steel foot), we eventually arrived in no man's land with ski clothing and ski boots. The people there got big eyes and gave us and our equipment a wide berth. After a long train journey, we arrived at the airport in Athens shortly after midnight.

More photos from Vasilitsa in the gallery


Conclusion: A week of skiing in Greece, super-friendly people, delicious food, great terrain and hardly any people on skis, plus lots of unique experiences. A great trip and hopefully not the last one to this country...

Photo gallery

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