Five articles long, something was claimed about "actually simple" and "not at all complex" while the text was filled to bursting point with detailed knowledge - if that wasn't misleading advertising. All right, we admit it: crevasse rescue is a complex subject with lots of details. But only if you want to know everything about it. And there is hardly any reason to do so. You can get by very well with just a few of the techniques presented if you want to. You don't have to master every possible technique and have every piece of equipment to carry out a successful crevasse rescue. Today we present five stereotypes as an example to show you the possibilities of focusing and condensing knowledge and material. Together with the knowledge previously covered, this should make it easy for you to find the optimal route for your use on the mountain.
Basic equipment
Regardless of which material composition you decide on, you always need a few things as a basis: individual material: (alpine) harness, hand loop
for individual descent: rope with locking carabiner, ice screw (counts as part of the group material)
Group material: rope, 2 x 120 cm webbing slings, normal and locking carabiners (1 set each for the person in front and the person behind)
Knowledge: tying into the rope, anchor construction, self-belaying using an ice screw
(1) The cord minimalist
Old-school alpinist, has already blasted up the north face of the Eiger at 14, has an aversion to metal and can't really see the advantages of modern equipment. individual material: no additional
group material: long rope, one normal carabiner, two locking carabiners
skills: self-ascent using a Prusik hand and foot sling, self-belaying using a plugged Prusik, simple pulley with Prusik knot, loose pulley with plugged Prusik
procedure: If he falls into the crevasse himself, he climbs out himself using Prusik slings, if someone else falls, a simple pulley or the loose pulley is used. In both cases, a knot made of rope is used as a backstop.
(2) D'Artagnan the material fetishist
One for everything, but the right one. This is D'Artagnan and his crevice animals. No matter who falls in where and how, someone always sets up a Swiss pulley to solve the problem. And with the right material. He only has one method in his repertoire, but he has perfected it. Individual material: No additional
Group material: 1 locking carabiner, 3 normal carabiners, long auxiliary rope, Tibloc, Microtraxion and ultra-long pulley for the first and last rope
Knowledge: Swiss pulley (Canadian pulley)
Procedure: Whether the person in front of the rope, behind the rope or someone in the middle falls into the crevasse, someone at the other end of the rope team always builds a Swiss pulley to solve the situation
(3) Mackie the Swiss knife
It takes the right tools and knowledge, then everything can be solved. Armed with Micro-Traxion and Tibloc, Mackie climbs up himself or pulls out each of his comrades using a loose pulley or pulley block. Individual equipment: 1 locking and 3 normal carabiners, long auxiliary rope, Tibloc and Microtraxion
Group equipment: No additional
Skills: Loose pulley with Microtraxion, Swiss pulley, Canadian pulley, self-ascent with Tibloc and Microtraxion
Procedure: Mackie is the last to go. If his companions fall, he takes over the rescue using a loose pulley or sets up a Swiss pulley, depending on the situation. If he falls himself, he ascends using a Tibloc and pulley with a backstop on the rope.
(4) Resc me, Resc you...
In keeping with modern developments, this rope team only needs a Mammut RescYou on the harness, which makes self-ascent and companion rescue rather lengthy but uncomplicated. For safety, in case the person with the RescYou falls and becomes incapacitated, both the first and last person on the rope carry one on their harness. individual material: locking carabiner
group material: two RescYou
knowledge: operating instructions for the RescYou
procedure: Self ascent or companion rescue using the RescYou after an anchor has been created, no untying from the rope
(5) Hans the climbing skin
Hans is known for statements such as "On the mountain, speed is safety, ergo weight is risk." or "A season has a limited number of good days, I'm not going to waste them practicing." The most infamous statement, however, is "Only people who take breaks fall into crevasses."
Makes around 50 alpine tours a year, some of them challenging, mostly alone. Didn't come back from the mountain two years ago.
