Ski workshop | Cut & care for skins

Although modern climbing skins are not only quite affordable, but also easy to care for - in big contrast to grandpa's well-kept sealskin strips - there are still a few little things you need for unadulterated and, above all, long-lasting climbing fun. But forget the last sentence. Ascent is only ever a means to an end, who enjoys it? But perhaps that's precisely why everything should work. And that works best with high-quality, cleanly cut and well-maintained climbing skins.

Skin cutting

The first prerequisite for avoiding frustration is skins that really fit the ski. Of course, there are various compromising variations, such as split skins or straight-cut skins that only completely cover the base under the binding. But the best grip and ascent properties are achieved with a skin that is cut precisely to the waist. Of course, this requires a cut-to-size skin of the right width. Suitable means that it should only be a few mm narrower than the ski at its widest point, usually the shovel. It goes without saying that skins cut in this way carry more weight and cause more friction. If you want to change this, you can of course make the aforementioned compromises. Here we show you how to cut a skin to fit a ski.

Manufacturers generally include excellent cutting instructions with their skins and it is definitely worth reading them. There are often also how-to videos on the website. A ski workbench with ski clamps, like those used for waxing, is helpful for cutting. However, it can also be done easily in the living room at home by using two chair backs as a base. In any case, it is advisable to fix the ski brakes in the downhill position with a rubber band or similar.

If you have a skin of variable length, set the end hook on the rubber tensioner to a medium length, hook it onto the end of the ski and place the skin (still with protective foil) on the surface. With fixed end hooks and tip tensioners, the skin is simply hooked in. For skins without end hooks, the length is selected so that the end of the skin lies in the area of the ski end that is still flat on the snow (it is essential to pay attention to the correct running direction, against the grain does not work well). If the skin has a variable tip loop, this is adjusted to the width of the ski tip.

Now the cut edge is flamed with a lighter to smooth it out a little. With some skins, this is necessary to weld the edge and prevent the skin and backing material from fraying, but most modern skins manage without it. The instructions supplied with the skins usually provide information on this. However, meticulous aesthetes can always fuse the fringes created by cutting - although this is only of limited use with pure mohair skins. To scorch, the lighter is carefully passed along the edge with a small flame. The flame should be directed from below, i.e. from the adhesive side, so that only the hairs on the edge and not on the fur are melted. Too much heat will of course also damage the glue, so work carefully and quickly.

Once the cut edge is sealed, you have a neatly cut coat and it can be stored in the coat bag. To do this, the supplied carrier net (or foil) is usually cut in half, the skin is pulled off from the end or, in the case of tip tensioners, from the tip of the ski over half of the ski and the carrier net is glued on. Incidentally, for quick handling, especially in the terrain, it makes sense to mark the center on the middle strip on the underside of the skin (if it has one), then you can find it at a glance afterwards. The rest of the skin is removed, folded over and glued to the carrier net from the other side. Now just fold the fur over 2-3 times and stow it in the fur bag. Done.

Storage & care

Stored in the bag like this, the skins can be stored perfectly. However, they should be stored in a dry and not too warm place, preferably protected from light. Temperatures well above room temperature affect the adhesive and cause it to flow, which can lead to nasty surprises the next season when the adhesive has coated the carrier net and the skins are almost impossible to separate. Moisture also affects the adhesive and, as with all textiles, can lead to undesirable and smelly effects. For longer storage, it is advisable to take the skins out of the bag and either fold them lengthwise or, even better, to glue both skins together in full length on the carrier net and store them hanging or lying somewhere dry, dry and not too warm and protected from dust. A closet in the cellar is ideal here. Then there's a good chance that your children will say at some point: "Do you really still want to use those old things?" and the obvious answer will probably be: "Why not? They're still good.".

Impregnating furs

Furs otherwise require little care. The only care measure that is sometimes necessary is to waterproof the skin against water. This is particularly useful on spring tours when the snow cover is damp, and prevents both heavy water absorption through the skin and the so-called clogging, i.e. snow clumps sticking to the underside of the skin. The application is generally similar to paste wax for the ski base and can also be applied on the go if problems arise. Most commercially available coat impregnating agents are simply applied with an applicator sponge. However, there are also solid blocks of wax that can be rubbed into the skin. You should only make sure that the adhesive is not coated, as the functions of adhesive and waterproofing are somewhat diametrically opposed.

Proper handling

Other than that, there are a few things you should do to help keep the coat functioning optimally for as long as possible. If possible, you should hang the skins up to dry after each day of touring so that the skin and adhesive side can dry. Avoid excessive heat (e.g. over the stove), dirt and contact with other items such as clothing or skins.

The adhesive is particularly important. When handling the skins, especially when putting them on and taking them off, you should make sure that you keep the adhesive side clean and avoid contact with the forest floor, snow, dusty ground or your own clothes. Even the smallest amount of dirt will stick to it immediately and reduce the adhesion of the skin to the ski. Such dirt is often difficult or impossible to remove from the adhesive. This also applies in particular to ski wax or base repair material. It wouldn't be the first time that someone, after painstakingly filling in the finest scratches in the base by dripping P-Tex, suddenly finds it on their skin on the first ski tour afterwards. Even after waxing, ski bases should be stripped clean and brushed out before skins are glued on. It also helps to always put the skins on and, above all, take them off outside in the cold. As skin adhesive was designed for use in cold temperatures, it is relatively soft in warm conditions and skin handling here leads to the adhesive surface becoming rough and uneven in the long term and losing adhesive performance.

As an alternative to liquid adhesive, some manufacturers offer adhesive on backing paper. This makes it much easier to apply new adhesive, especially if you want to replace the entire adhesive. After removing the old coating, the adhesive is simply applied to the coat - this should of course be done without creases or bubbles - and melted through the wax paper with a hot iron. Once it has cooled down, remove the backing film and remove the excess adhesive. The glue is then allowed to dry overnight, the center band is reapplied and the coat is as good as new. And you need a vacation first. Ski touring vacation at its best....

Wisdom at the end

About the middle band: What is this strip of fabric in the middle of the adhesive side of many skins actually for? I'm sure some people have already asked themselves this question. The tape serves two purposes: On the one hand, it slightly reduces the adhesion of the skin to the ski, which actually only needs to be firm at the edges, and therefore makes handling easier when putting on and taking off skins. An advantage that many a petite lady with wide skis has already appreciated. On the other hand, it serves as an emergency reserve. If, for whatever reason, you have soiled the adhesive during a tour that the skin no longer sticks to the ski, you can simply tear off this strip and there is still enough adhesive to get you home properly.

With this final piece of wisdom, the ski workshop closes its doors. And with a final note: Of course, all these techniques can also be applied to splitboard skins. Not everywhere that says skis in it is only skis in it.