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Powdermania 2012 | Week 10/13

The best snow on earth – and at 71, life really begins

by Patrick Fux 03/08/2012
Last Monday, the chapter on how easy snow can be was rewritten, so to speak: Another day in Furano and knee-deep powder snow at its very best. The whole day alone in the ski resorts and no one to help track the fresh snow, that was quite a lot of work, but we enjoyed it immensely. The ski patrol didn't seem to take such a strict view of the whole thing and let us get on with it.

Last Monday, the chapter on how easy snow can be was rewritten, so to speak: Another day in Furano and knee-deep powder snow at its very best. The whole day alone in the ski resorts and no one to help track the fresh snow, that was a lot of work, but we enjoyed it immensely. The ski patrol didn't seem to take such a strict view of the whole thing and let us get on with it.

Tuesday we went to a new area called Tomamu, but we found it too boring, too small and not steep enough and left after just two hours. The "abuse" of avalanche barriers at the side of the road on the way back was much more fun.

On Wednesday, we went to Kamui, a ski resort that made a great impression on me two years ago. We met the resort manager at the ticket office, who offered us a private tour. He was wearing a bright yellow ski suit, the kind usually worn by Scandinavians, and took us up to the resort in the gondola. On the way up, he told us a little about himself: he has been the manager of the area for 30 years, has been skiing every day of the season for 15 years, in summer he is out and about with a saw to clear the pesky bushes and in winter he skis through the woods every day to keep fit - at 71 years old and with a level of fitness that even we lack on some days.

The back of the area offers short but beautiful forest descents and I remembered that it is very important not to miss the traverse. Nevertheless, we managed to miss this traverse, which meant an hour of hard work for me and two hours for my colleagues. It would have been a lot easier with skins in our backpacks, but we had to walk back to the area in deep fresh snow.


Thursday Rusutsu was a new area for us, only 45 minutes away from Niseko: a large area that has a lot to offer for beginners to advanced skiers. Those who are still new to deep snow can work on their technique here undisturbed and the experts are more likely to look for entertainment when jumping.

Friday, Niseko with its avalanche barriers was on the program. Niseko is brilliant: lots of forest skiing, nine gates for backcountry access and a lift system that is mostly of the finest quality. Unfortunately, no fresh snow and therefore already boring in the afternoon, so time to abuse a few avalanche barriers again.

Saturday, a few more hours in Niseko before we found our way back onto the ferry with a few tourist detours. After 30 hours on the road and ferry, we arrived in rainy Hakuba.

Hokkaido is brilliant and the perfect alternative to Hakuba for me. I'm already thinking about spending more time here. The snow is much better, lighter, falls in incredible quantities and the lift system is also better. Let's see where we end up next year.

The weather forecast is the saddest it's ever been this winter: Several days of rain beyond the highest mountains.

More pictures from week 10 in the Gallery

Photo gallery

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