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snow of tomorrow

Snow of tomorrow | Ski crossings with public transport

How driving less increases your freedom

Guest author 12/02/2024
Heavy equipment, waiting times at cold railway stations, high planning costs... there are plenty of reasons (or excuses?) not to travel by public transport, especially on ski tours. A reflection on my efforts to leave the car at home more often and to outwit my own comfort.

"Do I take public transport for my ski tour tomorrow or - as is usually the case - the car?" If you live in Innsbruck, you are often faced with the choice, as many of the tour destinations can also be reached by bus and train, albeit sometimes a little more time-consuming. For me, the financial consideration is now in favour of public transport anyway, as my employer thankfully covers the cost of the Tirol Climate Ticket. "But an extra three quarters of an hour's sleep at the weekend would be nice, wouldn't it? There are three of us and the car would be well utilised anyway. We could go to the sauna on the way back." And the car has already won again in view of this overall advantages! Despite the intention to leave it parked more often.
How do I manage not to be repeatedly outwitted by convenience and habit? The solution for me is to take advantage of public transport and go on trips that would be very difficult or impossible by car. To experience something that is only possible by bus and train, so that I'm happy to leave the car behind! In practice, this means: crossings with different start and end points, ideally in completely different valleys. There are several well-known crossings in the area (e.g. Tux Alps, Hoch Tirol etc.). For most of us, having several days of holiday or spending the whole weekend on the road will probably be the exception rather than the rule. Descriptions, let alone bundled collections of one-day crossings suitable for everyday use, are rare. But that can be changed (see info below)!

Ski crossing "in action"

A day off in high winter: a half-day tour, with a few errands to run in the afternoon. The Axamer Lizum - 45 minutes by bus from the city of Innsbruck - is a welcome, high-altitude starting point. Today I am one of the few who, after a short walk along the ski piste, branch off into the open terrain in the direction of Lizumer Kar. The steep section is - unsurprisingly - completely rutted and windswept from the previous days. OK for the ascent, definitely no fun for the descent! Fortunately, I don't have to descend there again. The cirque itself impresses every time with its vertical rock faces and towers - the name "Dolomites of North Tyrol" is no coincidence. The shady basin has even preserved some powder. However, this quickly changes again. On the steep ascent to the targeted yoke, I am accompanied by a constant, unpredictable alternation of broken snow and softer passages. Hopefully it will be better on the other side. After a manageable 800 metres in altitude and a good two hours of ascent, I reach the col and eagerly check out the south-facing downhill slopes. The snow cover is hard, but at least untouched and homogeneous... it could be worse! I take a short break and let my gaze wander over the yellowish rock ribs decorated with snow cushions to the main Stubai ridge. The sun tentatively makes its way through the previously overcast sky and transforms the slopes into a glistening white. Let's get going! I take off into the steep. Soon the compact snow surface is softened like a firn and, turn after turn, I make barely visible tracks in the snow. What a joy it is when a plan works out and something special, out of the ordinary, is achieved on what is actually an ordinary day with mixed conditions and a manageable time budget! As a passionate ski tourer, I hardly dare to admit that piste skiing can also be really fun. And you can get 550 metres more downhill than uphill - without lift assistance - on a (public transport) crossing!

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Conclusion

As this experience shows, crossings don't necessarily have to be long and demanding, but are available in the full range, just like "normal" ski tours. And of course, day crossings by bus and train require a certain amount of planning (the effort would probably be no less with a car), but you get a particularly intense experience, as every metre is new and arouses curiosity. After a season in which I consciously tried to travel more frequently on public transport, I am particularly fascinated by the new tour options that this opens up. In particular, the opportunity to ski down long valleys "from the other side" allows you to explore completely new winter landscapes. There are also many options when "playing" with the expositions and routes, which can be creatively combined depending on the conditions and preferences: sunny ascent and shady-powdery descent, relaxed east-facing ascent in spring and west-facing descent with late varnishing, short ascent and long descent to the lower-lying end point etc.. Once you have discovered these attractions for yourself and become accustomed to the new possibilities, you will often no longer miss your car.

Addendum: Admittedly, one-day ski crossings are a particularly attractive way of travelling if you live in the Alps or close to the Alps. If you are travelling further afield, weekend or even longer ski crossings such as those described here Snow of tomorrow | Public transport skitour crossing in a self-experiment | PowderGuide are also ideal, for which public transport is also ideal due to the different start and end points.

Florian's tips for public transport ski crossings

  1. Dry spare underwear, especially a thick vest, is useful and can also help you survive waiting times at some colder stops. Dry socks are also a great way to prevent clammy feet and have put a smile on many a face.

  2. Depending on your comfort requirements, the length of your journey and the start of the snow, lightweight trainers are a good idea. Since you're travelling with day luggage, your backpack will still be light and the extra weight is unlikely to bring anyone to their knees (try it out!).

  3. It's best to have already scouted out a café/restaurant in advance where you can warm up and refill your fluids after the tour if you have to wait a little longer for the next connection. This is a great way to create local added value. Alternatively, you can deliberately take a break in the sun on the mountain before heading to the shady bus stop.

  4. If you have downloaded the relevant map section including the "public transport" layer offline in the alpenvereinaktiv app before the tour, you will be sure to find the next bus stop even in a dead zone.

Information

At Alpenvereinaktiv you will find a collection of one-day ski crossings in Austria. It includes classics such as the "National Ski Tour" on the Dachstein or the Grünstein Bypass in Tyrol, but also lesser-known, smaller and larger crossings. We hope that the number of tour ideas described will grow quickly with your help and that you will find a large pool of inspiration for particularly attractive public transport ski tours.

More inspiration for public transport tours for all disciplines, seasons and regions can be found at alpenvereinaktiv.com HERE.

There is also a new e-learning course "Climate-friendly on tour" from the “Alpenverein Akademie”, which not only provides background information and know-how on mobility, but also whets the appetite for your next public transport tour. The link can be found HERE.

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