In this report, I would like to introduce you to a small, relatively unknown low mountain range that I have come to appreciate very much in recent years and whose varied landscape fascinates me time and time again in winter: the Giant Mountains. In my report, I describe a tour around the mountain massif, which is just under 30 km long. Its highest mountain, the Schneekoppe, will be the start and finish point. The first part of the report describes the main features of the mountain range, part 2 of the report then describes the freeriding and touring opportunities in the Giant Mountains...It's no wonder that the Giant Mountains are unknown to most (Western) European freeriders and tourers. After all, the small region is located quite far away from the Alps and does not immediately stand out due to its spectacular topography. It is therefore understandable that the number of freeriders there is manageable. Although there are more and more of them on the Czech side of the mountain range, even the best runs are still not fully traced days after heavy snowfall. The Krkonoše Mountains are not only an interesting destination because of their moderate prices, but also because of their countless touring options. Its unique landscapes also give it a rather unique character.
The Krkonoše Mountains, also known as the Snow Mountains, stretch along the border between the Bohemian part of the Czech Republic and the Silesian part of Poland. It is the highest mountain range in the Czech Republic. The geographical orientation of the main ridge runs from west to east: more precisely from WNW to OSE. The Schneekoppe (Czech: Snezka, Polish: Sniezka) is the highest elevation of the mountain range at 1602 meters. It is the border mountain between the two countries.
The mountain range is divided by two striking, quasi-parallel ridges: The Bohemian Ridge and the Silesian Ridge. The larger part of the mountain range lies on Czech territory and merges into foothills towards the south. In contrast, the Polish part, bounded by the Silesian Ridge (main ridge), slopes steeply to the north. The Silesian Ridge also forms the watershed between the drains to the North and Baltic Seas. The Elbe Valley lies in the valley between the two ridges. The Elbe has its source here at an altitude of approx. 1400 m in the westward sloping part of the valley. The still young Elbe falls over a waterfall into the Bohemian Basin, where it joins the White Elbe coming from the eastern side of the valley. To make its way out of the mountains, the river has broken through the Bohemian Ridge. Spindleruv Mlyn (Spindleruv Mlyn), the center of alpine winter sports in the Czech Republic, is located at this breakthrough and in the center of the mountain range.
In addition to the Schneekoppe, there are three other mountains that are higher than 1500 m: Lucní hora (1555 m), the highest mountain of the Bohemian Ridge, Brunnberg, also known as Steinboden (Studnicní hora), 1554 m and the High Wheel (Polish Wielki Szyszak, Czech Vysoké Kolo), at 1509 m the highest elevation in the western part of the Krkonoše Mountains. Also worth mentioning is the Kesselkoppe (Kotel), at 1435 m, which forms the highest point at the western end of the Bohemian Ridge.
The Schneekoppe has an almost symmetrical pyramid shape. Its western flank drops steeply and forms an imposing basin with the slopes of the Brunnberg mountain sloping to the northeast, which narrows 600 m below into a valley that opens up to the south, towards Pec pod Snezkou.
The northern side of the pyramid slopes somewhat more moderately, with an altitude difference of 500 m to Poland in the Melzergrund (Kociol Lomniczki CZ) (Dolina Lomniczka PL). The valley opens up to the north towards the village of Krummhübel, Karpacz, which operates one of the two ski resorts on the Polish side of the mountain.
The easiest way to reach the Schneekoppe is by cable car from Pec pod Snezkou, which has been in operation since 2014. Until then, a nostalgic-looking two-person chairlift led to the summit. Skiers are not usually transported, as there is also no official descent from the Schneekoppe.
Another striking part of the mountain is the so-called Kozi Hibely, a steep ridge sloping down to the north and south, which is part of the Bohemian Ridge east of Spindler Mühle.
It connects to the 1555 m high Lucní hora. The western side of the Hochwiesenberg also drops steeply into the valley. Where the ridge meets the western flank of Lucní hora, the terrain divides into numerous gullies and ditches, which converge in the valley and create a stream that flows to Spindleruv Mlyn. There it flows into the Elbe.
The climate of the Giant Mountains is characterized by frequent weather changes. Winters are cold and snow depths of over three meters (according to statistics) are not uncommon. I myself have only experienced a maximum of two and a half meters. Large parts of the mountains are covered in snow for up to six months. The higher elevations are often shrouded in thick fog. According to statistics, the summit of the Schneekoppe is at least temporarily hidden in the clouds on an average of 296 days. The average annual temperature on the Schneekoppe is just 0.2 °C. Two-digit minus temperatures are normal in winter.
The ridges are among the most wind-prone areas in Europe. It is not unusual for the winds to reach gale-force peaks, as I have experienced myself on several occasions. On the northern side of Poland, the foehn is a frequent weather phenomenon and causes icy peaks and heavy snow drifts. The average annual precipitation ranges from around 700 mm at the foot of the mountains to 1230 mm on the Schneekoppe. The highest levels of precipitation are reached in the valleys at the foot of the main ridge.
The Czech side tends to receive slightly more snow than the Polish northern side due to its geographical orientation.
A large part of the mountain range is protected as a national park in both countries. In the Krkonossky národní park (KRNAP) in the Czech Republic and in the Karkonoski Park Narodowy (KPN) in Poland. The protected zone begins on the Polish side at around 900 to 1000 m, while on the Czech side the protected zone extends down to the valley floors. Parts of the mountain range are also designated as a UNESCO biosphere reserve.
The tree line in the Krkonoše Mountains is between 1250 and 1350 m, which is very low compared to the Alps or other low mountain ranges in Central Europe. In contrast to the steeply sloping basins and cirques carved out by glaciers, the bare mountain peaks look like vast tundra landscapes.
Crippled spruce trees bent by the strong winds are characteristic of the transition between the montane and (sub)alpine zones. The sight of them resembles an army of bent figures that seem to be pushed by the wind across the wide ridges of the mountains. Rapid changes in the weather, which envelop the landscape in clouds in no time at all, create the image of an enchanted, mystical world of legends.
This was certainly no different when the Krkonoše Mountains were settled at the end of the 17th and beginning of the 18th century. The belief in the mystical, wild and unpredictable character of nature is certainly also responsible for the creation of the legendary figure of Rübezahl.
In the stories and tales of the Krkonoše Mountains, Rübezahl is the capricious mountain spirit, the guardian of hidden treasures and ruler of wind and weather. According to the story by Johann K. A. Musäus from 1783, the spirit got his name from the king's daughter, whom he wanted to marry and dragged off to his cave in the mountains. However, she managed to escape the ghost by trickery, by giving him the condition that he had to count all the turnips in the fields of Silesia before she would agree to marry him. Rübezahl conscientiously counted more than once, but came to a different result each time he tried, which enabled the captive princess to escape. She fled to her prince and mocked the ghost with the name "Rübezahl".
For a low mountain range of this size, the Krkonoše Mountains offer excellent freeride terrain. However, most of the slopes are located within the national park. Freeriding is prohibited here. There are few corridors where freeriding is permitted. Even in the ski resorts of the Czech Republic, out-of-bounds skiing is usually a no-go.
There is a well-signposted network of hiking and touring trails. The cat tracks on the main hiking routes, which stretch across the wide ridges, are well prepared. Cross-country skiing is a popular sport in the Czech Republic and countless runners, from young to old, whether ambitious athletes or walkers, can be found there at the weekends.
The number of ski tourers, on the other hand, is relatively small and cannot be compared with the masses in the Alps or low mountain ranges such as the Black Forest.
Away from the main streams, however, there are a number of trails where you are almost completely alone.
The Giant Mountains have an extensive network of managed huts and farms along the main ridges: these so-called Bauden are popular destinations for many winter sports enthusiasts and hikers. They originate from the settlements and huts that were built to farm the high meadows in the 19th century. The standard of the Bauden is quite different and varies between the two countries. Despite the sometimes quite large number of beds in the Bauden, it may be advisable to book in advance. Especially if you don't have a sleeping bag with you.
