Second part of the presentation of the Giant Mountains (PL, CZ) as a freeride and touring area. There are a few ski resorts on the Polish northern side of the mountains, while the Czech side has a large number of smaller and medium-sized ski resorts. In my description, I will focus on five areas, all of which are located along the main ridges of the mountain range ...In the following report, I describe the Polish Karpacz (KrummhĂĽbel) in the north-east, Szklarska Poreba (Schreiberhau) in the north-west of the mountain range, the Czech Harrachow (Harrachsdorf) and Rokytnice nad Jizerou (Rochlitz an der Iser) in the west, Spindleruv Mlyn (Spindler Mill) in the center and Pec pod Snezkou (Petzer) in the southeast.
Karpacz is located in the northeast at the foot of the Silesian ridge not far from the Schneekoppe. Legend has it that RĂĽbezahl lived here. The village can only be reached by road from Jelenia Gora (Hirschberg). The railroad line that once connected the neighboring village of Szklarska Poreba with Karpacz has been closed.
Except for the 12th century Norwegian stave church Wang, which the Prussian King Frederick William IV acquired and had rebuilt in Karpacz in 1842, Karpacz has no cultural features worth mentioning. The ski resort has rather antiquated-looking ski lifts.
The highlight is definitely a one-person chairlift that leads to the highest point of the area. The lift was certainly only designed for hikers, as it is not possible to leave the skis strapped on while going up. You have to carry all your equipment in your hands and on your lap, including your backpack if necessary, which is a challenge in any case. The lift is the most direct connection to the Schneekoppe from the Polish side and therefore has certain advantages despite the effort it demands of its guests.
Karpacz is an interesting freeride area. In addition to various tree runs, other descents are possible in the immediate vicinity of the mountain station. The highlight is the descent into Dolina Lomniczka with a view of the Schneekoppe.
A path runs along the bottom of the valley that you shouldn't miss. If you do, you will find yourself in the stream bed. The path leads to a drag trail that takes you back to the valley station. The actual part of the descent is quite short at 300 m, but steep. The avalanche situation should be thoroughly checked, as the slope is a catch basin for huge accumulations of drift snow.
From the drag lifts in the upper part of the area, you can reach the small Techbaude (Schronisko Samodnia), which is located on a cirque lake, via a drag trail. The lake is surrounded by a 300 m high rock face with a gully running through it. The lake, which lies at 1200 m above sea level, is usually frozen over throughout the winter.
In general, the northern side of the Krkonoše Mountains is exposed to strong winds and occasionally fierce foehn winds. The ridges are often icy and blown off. The conditions become good when the snow level rises above 150 cm.
Szklarska Poreba is located at the north-eastern end of the mountains. The small town can be reached on the Polish side via Jelenia Gora (Hirschberg) or via the pass road from the Czech Republic, which connects the town with Harrachov (CZ). The railroad line over the pass has been in operation again since 2010 and connects the two countries. The town is the tourist center of the Polish part of the mountains. In addition to its tourist attractions, Szklarska Poreba is primarily known for its glassblowing skills.
The SudetyLift ski area meets the average standard of a Western European mid-mountain ski area with various chairlifts and T-bar lifts. The highest point of the area is the mountain Reifträger (Szrenica), with an altitude of 1362 m.
The terrain is rather moderate. The difference in altitude in the area is 620 m. Freeriding is possible in almost the entire area, but officially only tolerated. There are a number of tree runs through forests, some of which are dead due to acid rain, interspersed with small cliffs. If you follow the main ridge from the mountain station to the east, you will come to a disused drag lift whose slope leads into a drag trail that leads back into the area. If you miss this exit, you are on your own.
Harrachov/ Rokytnice nad Jizerou: I mention the two towns in the same context, as they are part of a joint lift network. Geographically, however, they are separated by a mountain ridge. The small town of Harrachov lies at the western end of the Krkonoše Mountains between the Bohemian and Silesian ridges. Harrachov is best reached by car from the south, but can also be reached by train (Tanvald station, which leads up to the New World Pass at 886 m and on to Szklarska Poreba in Poland and Jelenia Gora). In addition to the art of glassblowing, which is a tradition in virtually all former Sudeten regions, Harrachov is known to the general public primarily because of the annual Ski Flying World Cup.
The ski resort has three chairlifts, two of which are newer and one T-bar lift. The difference in altitude is rather low at 370 m. The mountain station is at 1020 m. The area offers hardly any opportunities for freeriding. There are only unprepared slopes along the ski jumps.
Rokytnice nad Jizerou is located in the valley next to Harrachov and can only be reached by car. Coming from Harachov, the road winds through a deep valley until you reach the turn-off. Rokytnice nad Jizerou was known for its textile industry. Various factory ruins, which have long since ceased operations, bear witness to this era. The town center of Rokytnice lies 550 m above sea level. The town is surrounded by several mountains, which are between 900 and 1200 m high. Rokytnice has several ski resorts. The two largest of these are Studenov, which lies on the rear slope to Harrachov but is not directly connected to it, and Horny Domky at the head of the valley below Kottel (Keselkoppe). Horni Domky is the largest area in the valley with an altitude difference of 660 meters. It has modern lifts that meet European standards. The highest elevation is Lyca Hora (Bald Mountain) at 1315 m.
Freeriding is possible in Rokytnice, albeit only to a limited extent. The area borders directly on the national park, which is why the park administration is very keen to prevent skiers from finding their own routes. Official areas where freeriding is possible are not designated.
Many ski tourers start their ridge crossing from Rokytnice or from the Lyca Hora mountain station. The Kesselkoppe (Kottel) is within walking distance.
Below the Kottel is the Dovracky mountain chalet at around 1000 m. Various hiking trails branch off from there. Including the one through the bottom of the Kottel. The Dovracky chalet can also be reached from the ski area via a forest descent. The Kottel basin is divided into two sections, which are separated by a ridge. Both sections are very steep in the upper part and usually heavily overgrown. The eastern part of the basin is heavily interspersed with rocks.
Following the hiking trail from the Kesseltal valley, you reach a mountain pasture, Horni Misecky, which can also be reached by car in summer and from which you have lift access to the neighboring Medvedin ski resort in Spindleruv Mlyn. From the summit of Kottel, you have a magnificent view over the entire mountain range as far as the Schneekoppe
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Spindleruv Mlyn is the center of alpine skiing in the Giant Mountains. It is also the largest ski resort in the Czech Republic. It is located in the center of the mountains at the breakthrough of the Elbe through the Bohemian ridge and is only accessible through the Elbe valley, which opens up to the south. The first settlement in Svaty Petr, a side valley of Spindleruv Mlyn, was founded by miners in the 16th century to mine silver and iron ore. In the 18th century, a mill was built in the present-day village, which gave the village its name. The name Spindler was the family name of the first owners, hence the place name Spindler MĂĽhle. Spindleruv Mlyn became a tourist destination and spa town early on. Franz Kafka came here on the recommendation of his family doctor, where he worked on his book The Castle. The spectacular natural and mountain world that surrounds the town is the main attraction for many tourists, alongside the winter sports attractions. The prices are rather high by Czech standards and in comparison to other ski resorts.
One of the top tourist attractions is the Elbe Falls, which plunge over 50 meters into the Elbe basin between the Silesian and Bohemian ridges.
The Goat Ridge (Kozi Hibely), which rises on the northern side of Svaty Petr, gives the valley its alpine character.
The ski area of Spindleruv Mlyn is divided into two mountain ridges: The Medvedin 1235 m mountain station is located on the bow of the Bohemian Ridge sloping down to Spindleruv Mlyn, which extends from there to the west towards Kottel.
The mountain stations of the Plan ski area and the Skiareal Svaty Petr on the opposite side are located at 1198 m. The difference in altitude down to the valley station in Spindleruv Mlyn at 715 m is relatively similar at 520 m and 483 m respectively.
All freestylers will get their money's worth in Plan. A modern slope style course and a halfpipe where international competitions are held can be found in Svaty Petr. Depending on the season and snow conditions, a ski and boardercross course is prepared.
All ski areas in Spindleruv Mlyn are equipped with modern lifts. However, the areas are not directly connected. Freeriding is not permitted on either side of the valley. Even within the areas, the forest plots are cordoned off by fences. In the Plan and Svaty Petr ski areas, there are therefore only a few options for making a few powder turns.
If you follow the ridge from the Svaty Petr mountain station, the forest thins out after approx. 200 m. If you turn off Skiers left from there, you will reach a small valley that opens up towards the Svaty Petr valley station. You should either keep to the right or left of the valley to avoid ending up in the stream bed.
The terrain of the Medvedin ski area would potentially offer fantastic tree runs: however, the pistes here are also fenced off and freeriding out of bounds is not permitted.
From Medvedin in a south-westerly direction, you reach the Horni Misecky mountain pasture. A hiking trail branches off to the west along the Bohemian Ridge. Following this, you reach an open slope covered in young forest, at the foot of which you return to the Horni Misecky lift station.
Mount Medvedin is a steeply sloping promontory towards Spindleruv Mlyn on the western side of the Elbe breakthrough. Its northern side is therefore steep and partly interspersed with rocks. If you follow the Bohemian ridge from the Medvedin mountain station, the path climbs steadily up to 1390 m after a short dip. At the highest point, a rocky hilltop, the view opens up to the Elbe valley to the north. The terrain below is steep and difficult to see. The lower part of the slope is lightly wooded. A thorough assessment of the avalanche situation is essential. The Elbe runs about 500 m lower down at the foot of the slope. Beware, the crossing is difficult. The hiking trail through the Elbe valley is on the other side of the stream.
Pec pod Snezkou lies at the south-eastern end of the mountains at the head of the Giant's Valley, which stretches up to the Schneekoppe. The settlement of Pec was founded at the end of the 16th century. In addition to miners, it was mainly foresters from Carinthia, Styria and Tyrol who settled there to supply the surrounding mines with wood.
From the 19th century onwards, Pec became increasingly important as a tourist destination. Not least because of its location at the foot of Snezka (Schneekoppe). The town can only be reached by car or public bus. It is a popular winter sports resort with a large number of ski lifts on the surrounding slopes. The highest point of the ski resort Ski-Pec is at 1215 m on the ridge of the south-east facing Fuchsberg ridge. The valley station is at 830 m.
A gondola lift has also been running from Pec pod Snezkou to the 1602 m high Schneekoppe since 2014, replacing the rather antiquated chairlift.
The new gondola enables year-round passenger transport via the Ruzová Hora middle station at 1335 m to the summit. Skiers are not usually transported, as there are no official downhill runs from Snezka (Schneekoppe) to the valley. From the socialist-futuristic-looking summit chalet built in the 1970s, which also houses an observatory, you have a magnificent panoramic view of the entire mountain range and large parts of the Czech Republic and Poland.
I must mention at this point that the highest point in the Czech Republic is within the national park and freeriding is not permitted there.
The summit drops steeply to the west into a basin that flows into the Riesengrund. The terrain certainly has a gradient of over 45Âş in the upper part and is divided into various gullies, which come together further down. The terrain is rocky, exposed and extremely avalanche-prone! (Image: Imberi gullies photo)
The gradient is more moderate in the open forests along the lift route. From the middle station, it becomes increasingly steeper. Especially when you turn west towards Riesengrund. However, I recommend heading directly south. There you will reach the valley station of the gondola lift.
How to get there:
By train e.g.: Dresden - Liberec - Harrachov, 1 change in Liberec, 3.5 hours travel time depending on connection.
By car e.g.: Zurich - Harrachov, CZ, 820 km
Munich - Spindleruv Mlyn, CZ, 530 km
Linz - Pec pod Snezkou, Cz, 420 km
Berlin - Karpacz, Pl, 325 km
Language and communication:
The Giant Mountains belonged to the German Reich until 1945. The German population (Sudeten) was expelled after the Second World War and virtually replaced by settlers from Poland and the Czech Republic. Although there are de facto no more Germans living there, many older Czechs understand or speak German. This is less the case in Poland. The same applies to the younger generations in both countries, where English is used for communication. Nevertheless, you should have a few basic terms of the respective language up your sleeve.
Currency:
Czech crowns and Polish zloty. Both currencies are accepted in shops near the border. Card payment is usually not possible. Euros are welcome as a means of payment. However, the exchange rate may not be the best.
Freeride season: January to the end of April
Price level: favorable to moderate
Avalanche information
Weather services:
http://www.chmi.cz/portal/dt?portal_lang=cs&menu=JSPTabContainer/P1_0_Home
National Park:
Buildings (accommodation):
http://www.polish-online.com/polen/bauden-riesengebirge/index.php
http://riesengebirgler.de/gebirge/Baude/Gebirgsbauden_1.htm
Ski areas:
http://www.harrachov.com/de/skigebiet-harrachov/
http://www.rokytnice.com/de/lyzovani/skiareal-horni-domky
http://www.pecpodsnezkou.cz/DE/skipec.php
Maps:Hiking, ski touring and cycling map: Vydal Kartum, Krkonose 1:25,000
