Mt. Apharwat

"Don't worry and enjoy the curry powder." The short message that flickered on my screen was in huge contrast to the much more detailed travel warning from the Foreign Office. The newspaper reports, brought to light by online research, also left a less than inviting impression. However, a brief Facebook message from Dave Watson, a professional skier and first-time K2 conqueror, swept all concerns aside. The decision was made: we were going to ski in Kashmir.

It's cold, we're feeling the jet lag and the car has no heating. We drive from the airport in Srinargar to Gulmarg in the sleet and pass the fifth military roadblock. Even after the civil war, traffic in Kashmir is controlled by heavily armed Indian soldiers at all strategically important points...

How do you get there? For example, with Lufthansa from Munich to New Delhi, departing in the evening and landing 8 hours later in the morning. Onward flight with Indian Air to Srinargar, approx. 1 hour. From there you will be picked up at the airport and drive about 2 hours up to the Gulmarg ski resort.

Today is to be our first day in the fresh, untracked Kashmir powder. We meet our guide Mamout, who immediately tells us that the gondola won't be running today...