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Freeride tour of the week | Chevalier Couloir

Racy couloir with a very short approach on the Petite Aiguille Verte

by Christian Skala 02/03/2013
The Chevalier Couloir is relatively little used, at least if you consider its easy accessibility from the Grands Montet mountain station. However, it is an interesting, consistently steep couloir, even if the start admittedly often presents some difficulties.

The Chevalier Couloir is relatively little used, at least if you consider its easy accessibility from the Grands Montet mountain station. However, it is an interesting, consistently steep couloir, even if the start admittedly often presents some difficulties.

Ascent

Take the Grands Montets cable car from Argentiere to the starting point of the tour in two sections. From the mountain station, follow the ski slope for a few meters in the direction of the Rognons glacier and traverse quite high up the rock face on the north-east side of the "Col des Grand Montets" until you reach the start of the couloir. The couloir is usually marked with a clearly visible bergschrund. This is often best negotiated on the left-hand side. During our ascent, there was a lot of snow, so we were able to pass the bergschrund without any problems. In the couloir, it is advisable to ascend in the right-hand part of the gully, as the snow there is quite compact due to small snow slides. Caution: If skiers are already descending, it becomes quite uncomfortable and you voluntarily move into the deep snow (left side). The last approx. 40 m are very steep (approx. 55°) and the snow conditions were quite modest for us. You can either abseil the first few meters into the couloir in poor snow or build a belay station to prepare for the descent.

Descent

The descent in the couloir is the same as the ascent. The options for crossing the mountain circuit on skis have already been studied during the ascent. After leaving the couloir, cross back over to the ski slope and ski down to Argentiere.

Information

Difficulty (5-level scale): *****
Average and maximum steepness: 45°-50° / 350 m
Special dangers: Only start in absolutely safe conditions! Very steep couloir, falling is absolutely forbidden!!!
Equipment: Crampons, ice tools, helmet, rope, basic glacier and climbing equipment
Exposure: E/NE
Altitude difference start and finish: 3233 m | 1300 m
Altitude difference uphill and downhill: 360 m | 2280 m
Duration: approx. 5 hours
Best time of year: February to May
Accommodation: Various accommodation options in Argentiere or the Argentiere hut
Addresses: Lots of information about the lift and the area at chamonix.com
How to get there: From Bern to Martigny and then over the Col de la Forclaz to Argentiere. Ample parking is available at the Grands Montets cable car.
Topographical maps: IGN - TOP 25 - Topographic map 3630 OT: Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc (1:25,000)

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This article has been automatically translated by DeepL with subsequent editing. If you notice any spelling or grammatical errors or if the translation has lost its meaning, please write an e-mail to the editors.

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