The Canalone Neri on the Cima Tosa is probably one of the most perfect gullies in the Alps. 900 vertical meters, north-facing and steep throughout, the gully is also located in a very scenic area!
Ascension
As the tour to Cima Tosa takes a lot of time due to the low starting point and the long ascent, the variant with an overnight stay in the winter room of Refugio Brentei is described here. If you are sufficiently fit, the tour can of course also be done as a day tour. The starting point varies depending on the snow conditions. Ideally, you can drive to Malga Brenta Bassa by car, but it often ends before then and you have to carry an additional section. From Malga Brenta Bassa, follow the flat road to the southeast until you reach the valley station of the Refugio Brentei cable car. There you cross the stream on a small wooden bridge and follow the summer path over the Scala di Brenta (quite unpleasant depending on the snow conditions, possibly only possible with crampons) to Malga Brenta Alta. From there, continue south-east into a depression and, depending on the snow conditions and time of day (watch out for avalanches as the steep south-facing slopes warm up), either through a narrow gully or immediately to the right to Refugio Brentei. The winter room there is not very large and only offers mattresses, so you should bring your own sleeping bag and cooking facilities!
From the hut you already have a great view of the Canalone Neri on the Cima Tosa.
After a hopefully quiet night in the hopefully not overcrowded winter room, the next morning you descend briefly to the south into Val Brenta and ascend with skins to the start of the gully. Depending on the snow conditions and snow quality, you can still cover quite a distance in the gully with skins (and possibly crampons), but at the latest at the prominent ice hump, you usually have to put on crampons and unpack your ice axe. If you come across bare ice here, you will probably also want to secure a short section.
After the steepest point above the ice hump, the gully soon becomes a little flatter again before it splits up again towards the end. After the exit, you are on the summit plateau and reach the highest point of the Brenta Group in just a few steps.
Descent
The descent is of course also through the gully, and you may have to abseil down a short section at the ice hump. After the end of the gully, first descend northwest through the Val Brenta, then cross slightly above the Malga Brenta Alta and descend through the forest back to the Scala di Brenta. You will probably have to descend this mostly on foot before you can follow the road back to the parking lot.
Alternative
If there is little snow, it may make sense to start from the parking lot at Malga Valesinella and follow the hiking trail to Refugio Brentei. You save 250 meters in altitude here, but the path is mostly a steep traverse and often has to be done on foot with crampons. In addition, you are constantly in the danger zone of the steep slopes above the path. In most cases, the route from Malga Brenta Bassa is probably the better choice.
Information
Difficulty (5-level scale): *****
Average and maximum steepness: 45° | 55° (gully only)
Special dangers: Steep face, only start in safe conditions!
Equipment: Crampons, crampons, ice axe (ice tools), helmet, rope, ice screws etc.
Exposure: north/northwest
Altitude difference start and finish: 1200 m | 1200 m
Altitude difference uphill and downhill: approx. 1950 m | approx. 1950 m
Duration: A good 7 hours in total, if you are not very fit, an overnight stay in the winter room of the Refugio Brentei is recommended.
Best time of year: March - May
Accommodation: Winter room of the Refugio Brentei
How to get there: Via the Brenner freeway to Bolzano and on to San Michele/Mezzocorona. Into Val di Sole and over the pass to Madonna di Campiglio, through the village, downhill a little and along a small road to the valley station of the chairlift and further along a forest path to Piazza delle Bore. Continue towards Malga Brenta Bassa, depending on the snow conditions you can ski further or less into the valley.
