The difference in altitude of around 850 m and the last two thirds of the tour, which are consistently steep or extremely steep, give it a "very good" rating. Due to the north-facing exposure and the altitude with the starting point at the Hahntennjochpass at 1894 m, this tour can be undertaken late into spring.
Ascent
From the pass, first follow the summer trail and the ski tour to the Westlicher Scharnitzkopf through the mountain pine belt into the Hahntennkar. From there, a clearly visible gully runs northeast up to the Scharnitzsattel (Westlicher Scharnitzkopf). Here the routes separate and you stay on the relatively flat cirque floor. Follow the cirque to below the north-facing rock and firn walls (see photo). From here you can already partially see the ascent routes. Several gully systems lead to the summit, some of which contain rock steps that are barely visible from below.
Another factor in the choice of route is its exposure to the sun: we opted for a shady variant due to the strong sunshine at the end of May. There is a relatively easy ascent via the second couloir as seen from the cirque floor (see photo). We mistakenly chose the first gully on the ascent and therefore had to put our skis on our backpacks and climb a short distance. We only discovered the optimal gully on the descent. After the cirque floor, it steepens noticeably and later reaches a gradient of around 40°. Afterwards, the two gullies meet again and it flattens out slightly before becoming extremely steep again just below a small saddle (approx. 43°). Depending on the conditions, you may have to carry your skis here. The day's destination is already visible from the saddle, but it's another 20 minutes in a north-westerly direction to the summit. From here you have a wonderful view of the Lechtal Alps, the main Alpine ridge and the Inn Valley. The main summit of the Muttekopf can theoretically also be reached from the pre-summit. However, the ridge is usually very steep and hardly any additional vertical metres are gained.
Descent
Descend along the ascent line, as you have already memorized the rockfalls, snow conditions and gullies. Variations are of course very possible.
Alternatives
If the snow conditions are good, you can ascend and descend through the Steinkar. This means that the tour can be extended by a few more meters in altitude. The Steinkar also promises a much more inviting descent than the traverse to the pass. At the time of our tour, however, the mountain pine belt was no longer covered in snow, so an ascent through the Steinkar would have been very arduous and not very nature-friendly. However, it is also possible to ascend through the Hahntennkar, descend through the Steinkar and hike back to the top of the pass.
Information
Special dangers: rockfalls, avalanche danger, diurnal warming
Average steepness / maximum steepness: greater than 30°/ up to 43°
Exposure: north
Altitude start and finish: 1894 m.above sea level
Altitude difference uphill and downhill: 856 m | 856 m
Duration: approx. 3 hours
Best time of year: March to May Directions: From Imst in the direction of Hahntennjoch to the pass or coming from the Lechtal valley from Reutte on the B198 to shortly after Elmen; turn off onto the Hahntennjoch pass road; past Boden to the top of the pass
A prerequisite for the tour is an open pass road!
