Ischgl at the beginning of March, the last snowfall was almost three weeks ago and a foehn storm has been forecast for the coming days. So we use the remaining foehn-free day to go on an extensive ski tour through the Ischgl backcountry.
At the Visnitzbahn mountain station, we strap our skis to our backpacks for a short hike. We climb about 80 meters up to the ridge above, keeping to the left in the direction of the blasting mast already visible from the cable car. Once there, a wide valley opens up to us, at the other end of which lies the village of Kappl deep down in the Paznaun valley. Directly in front of us is a fine north-facing slope, but to get a few more vertical meters of descent out of it, we decide to traverse eastwards below the ridge. However, our greed is punished with nasty broken snow and a few sharks during the first few meters. The snow only becomes softer near the valley floor and we can enjoy the first smooth turns. Once there, it's time to put on our skins, because instead of heading straight down to Kappl, we want to get to Paznaun via the Vesul and Schwarzvesil saddles. ?
At first, the route heads westwards with little gradient, just right for getting into the groove, before a rather crisp gully awaits, which we have to climb through to pass the Vesulscharte. At its foot, a narrow section with an extremely steep south-facing slope has to be crossed, so you should be on your way early in spring. The ascent takes about an hour in total. Once at the top, we can take off our skins and the second descent awaits us, which is short but has excellent snow conditions!
We have to take on our skins again and climb up for about 20 minutes. After studying the map, we had speculated that we could avoid this ascent and simply traverse the section instead, but this was not possible in reality. Once we reach the Schwarzvesilscharte, we see that there are only a handful of tracks leading down into the valley, even though the last snowfall was several weeks ago.
We take the first north-facing slope under our poles and surf the finest powder ... Our efforts are rewarded. We are already thinking about the end of the tour when we are surprised by more and more great north-facing slopes. After a final but beautiful flatter section with trees and bushes, the valley closes and narrows into a stream bed, where we quickly realize why so few people have been here before us: we slide down the last 500 metres of altitude on a frozen torrent into the Paznaun valley. Apart from the fun factor (technical enthusiasts get their money's worth here), the conditions have to be right for the passage, as the stream has carved its way into a steep gorge. Depending on the snow conditions, the best time will be between the end of January and the beginning of March
However, it is an extremely worthwhile tour, especially the descents below the Nuamon ridge at the end of our tour make up for the ascents. The only downside is the long descent through the bed of the Schwarzvesilbach stream, for which you have to take a very close look at the avalanche situation.
Information about the tour
Difficulty (5-level scale):***
Special dangers: potential avalanche slopes on the ascent; long descent through a narrow streambed
Average steepness/maximum steepness: 25°/ 38°
Exposure: N / NW / SE
Altitude difference start and finish: 2.600 m | 1,300 m
Altitude difference uphill and downhill: approx. 650 m | 1,900 m
Duration: 4 to 5 hours
Best time of year: January to March
How to get there: From the west: A 14 towards Innsbruck and continue through the Arlberg tunnel onto the S 16 to the Pians exit. From there, follow the Silvretta Bundesstraße (B 188) for 20 kilometers in the direction of Ischgl. From the east: via Landeck onto the S 16 in the direction of Bregenz as far as the Pians exit. From there, follow the Silvretta Bundesstraße (B 188) towards Ischgl for 20 kilometers
Topographical maps: Freeride Map Samnaun/Ischgl 1:25,000; Online: www.gps-tracks.com
