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TouringTips

TouringTip | Cima di Val Bona

On the steep border between Italy and Switzerland

by Totti Lingott 03/10/2020
A varied round tour with a detour to Italy - one of the classics from the Forno hut. If you're not just interested in the big peaks, you should plan this circular tour. Val Bona often offers good snow conditions (mostly on the lee side) and rewarding downhill terrain. The ascent into the basin between Monte Rosso and Cima di Val Bona is just as much a ski mountaineering highlight as the summit of Val Bona.

It is well known that there are a number of rugged peaks in Bregaglia with impressive ridges, peaks, towers and walls. It is precisely because of this picturesque mountain scenery that the rather arduous ascent to the Fornohütte is worthwhile for a few days of ski touring in the Bergell. From the Fornohütte as a base, there are plenty of tour options - it's not for nothing that the hut has already been described as a freeride base here. The first tour should certainly be the panoramic summit of the local mountain Monto del Forno. Another classic, although other impressive peaks are even more worthwhile, is the circumnavigation of Monto Rosso with the summit of Cima de Val Bona as a mountaineering highlight.

The descent down to Italy into Val Bona in the direction of Chiareggio is particularly worthwhile. If the snow conditions are really good and there is plenty of motivation, you can even ski further and have a delicious Italian pizza for lunch! However, you should plan to be in good shape for the ascent back up to over 3000 m!

ROUTE

From the Forno hut (2574 m), you reach the Sella del Forno (2769 m) on moderate terrain to the east. It only becomes steeper at the end. Even here, there are beautiful views down to the Italian side and the descent down into Val Bona can be extended depending on the snow conditions and your taste. Until you reach the pizzeria in Chiareggio at an altitude of around 1600 m. At the earliest and without pizza, however, you turn south at an altitude of approx. 2550 m and begin the ascent below the impressive summit structure of Monte Rosso. In order not to miss the detour to the summit of the Cima di Val Bona, do not climb to the Passo di Val Bona, but always in the direction of P. 2935 northwest of the summit of the Cima di Val Bona (3032 m).

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This can only be reached from the north-west by challenging climbing, which is why in winter a southward traverse is made below the summit and the ski depot is set up on the south ridge. From here, the ascent to the summit is mostly secured with steel chains, but ice axes and crampons are still essential. The summit gully in particular is usually icy and cannot be climbed safely without these aids. The descent to the west down to the Forno glacier offers many variations over gentle, wide slopes - it is only a little steeper directly at the ski depot. From there, you return to the starting point for the hut ascent at an altitude of approx. 2500 m. Depending on your fitness and motivation, you can also include the summit of Monte Rosso on this tour.

Information

Difficulty: *** (from *****)

Special dangers: Steepness below the summit

Average | maximum steepness: below 30° | 40° (summit slope)

Exposure: E/W

Altitude start | finish: 2574 m | 2574 m

Altitude meters uphill | downhill: up to 1300 hm (with pizza!)

Duration: 4-6 hours

Best time of year: February to May

Access to the Fornohütte: From the Maloja Pass in a long Hartscher up the Forno Valley. The approach and the options from the Fornohütte are described here. Depending on the conditions, the Fornohütte is open from mid/end February to mid-May.

Note: The PG touring tips are general descriptions of tours that we like subjectively. Our touring tips do NOT refer to CURRENT CONDITIONS. Read the situation report and the weather forecast and plan your tour accordingly.

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