TouringTip | Lenzspitze north face

Ascent

The vast majority of aspirants will split the almost 2600 metres in altitude to the summit of the Lenzspitze over 2 days. On the first day, they usually have a heavy pack on their backs on the way to the intermediate destination, the Mischabelhütte at 3340 metres. After starting from the car park on the edge of Saas-Fee, you first cross the village before following the signs to the north-west. After a short stream crossing (bridge available in the hut season), the trail climbs steeply in countless kickturns. The paths from the village and the path coming from the Hannig mountain station meet (the ascent to the hut can be shortened by approx. 1 hour and 450 metres using the cable car). The trail then continues north-west past the lower Distelhorn until it reaches a rocky ridge at the top. There the character of the path changes and it is now an exposed, partly rope-aided climb, where you may well have to use your hands. There is also a short ladder to climb before reaching the Mischabelhütte with its old and new buildings after an often sweaty ascent.

On the second day, deep into the night, we continue along the path towards the Schwarzhorn. Cairns and/or tracks in the snow show the way. At a suitable point (at approx. 3550m), leave the rocky ridge in a north-westerly direction and enter the Hohbalm glacier. It is advisable not to enter the glacier too far down (large crevasses depending on the snow conditions), but only further up on the flatter plateau. On the Hohbalm glacier, the route then continues flat towards the Bergschrund. Before the Bergschrund, the slope rises slightly and crampons can be useful for the ascent on skis in very hard snow (or you can switch to ice crampons here). Depending on the snow conditions and time of year, the Bergschrund can be quite difficult to navigate. It is often advisable to overcome it on the orographic left side (lookers right). Once this obstacle has been overcome, the route follows a slightly diagonal line towards the summit. Depending on the snow conditions, there should be a good line in the lower section.

Useful information

The north-east face of the Lenzspitze usually only has sufficient snow cover very late in winter and is otherwise often bare. In some years, the wall is not accessible at all. Experience shows that the best time to climb it is usually between mid-May and mid-June. However, in some years with very rainy early summers, the wall is still accessible or only accessible in mid-July. The very friendly landlady of the Mischabelhütte (Maria Anthamatten) can often provide information about the conditions on the wall.

The wall has a fairly even gradient and, with good timing (early start & descent), has very few objective dangers. Nevertheless, the wall should not be underestimated, with a steepness of between 50 and 53 degrees and a wall height of 550 metres, falling is absolutely forbidden. The difficulty of the ascent depends very much on the prevailing snow conditions. In hard and icy conditions, the wall is very demanding; in soft and powdery conditions, the wall is a real treat for very experienced steep wall skiers. In bare ice, the wall ascent itself is an alpine challenge!

There is no easy way down from the summit of the Lenzspitze. If, for whatever reason, you don't want to climb it, the only exit options are the traverse to the Nadelhorn (rock climbing, grade III difficulty and very exposed) or a descent via the wall.

Both the hut approach (in snowy conditions) and the wall require safe avalanche conditions!

The Mischabelhütte is usually open from mid-June. The winter room (old hut building) is available earlier in the season. Thick sleeping bag and cooking utensils required, there is no stove!

Fatmap - 3D GPS track

Click on the arrow at the top left to open the tour on the external Fatmap page, with a larger display and additional functions.

By clicking on the "aeroplane" symbol, the route is flown virtually from start to destination.

Note: The GPS track shown is solely for the purpose of visualising the tour and may contain deviations from the route actually taken!

General information

Valley town: Saas Fee (1790m)

Hut: Mischabelhütte (3340m)

Summit: Lenzspitze (4294m)

Ascent: 2600 metres

Slope ski difficulty: 5.3 E3

Slope: 50-53 degrees, 550m wall height

First experience: Heini Holzer, 22/07/1972

Best time of year: mid-May - mid-June

Duration: Saas Fee - Mischabelhütte: approx. 4 - 4.5h

             Mischabelhütte - Lenzspitze approx. 3 - 6h (depending on conditions!)

Note: The PowderGuide tour tips are general descriptions of tours that we subjectively like. They do NOT refer to the current conditions! Read the weather and avalanche report and plan your tour accordingly.