We start with the first gondola to the Grands Montets summit station at 3296 m and descend over the Rognons glacier in fall line. Here we can already spot the Col du Chardonnet. After crossing the Argentière glacier, we first pass through a rocky upswing on the right. Crampons may be necessary here in spring.
Now we follow the Glacier du Chardonnet, which squeezes between the Aiguille d'Argentière and the Aiguille du Chardonnet, onwards and upwards, with a gentle gradient to the Col du Chardonnet. At 3323 metres, this is the highest point of our tour and the first stage of the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt.
It's worth taking a quick look at your watch and the mountain weather, because there is no mobile phone reception from here on.
If the snow conditions are good, you can descend directly and steeply to the east; if there is little or hard snow, it may be better to abseil down. A short hop over a small bergschrund after the narrow section and you are already on the sheltered Saleina glacier. From here you have two options: Either you keep quickly to the left and climb steeply up to the Fenêtre du Tour. Here you abseil a few metres northwards on brittle rock to the Glacier du Tour. Strictly speaking, you have only completed a Tour de 2 Cols, but you are also a little quicker for a Panach' in the valley.
