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adventure & travel

JaPOW - A winter season in Japan | Part 3

Sidecountry, backcountry and gate crossings

by Klara Stang 02/10/2024
The definitions of freeriding can sometimes differ from what we might be used to, leading to a great deal of confusion. I want to give a little introduction to Japan and share my experiences so far.

Backcountry vs. sidecountry

What we simply call freeriding in the Alps is more precisely differentiated in Japan. Jojo and I work for an agency that offers guided tours for off-piste skiing as well as ski and snowboard lessons. At first, the different terms for freeriding were a bit confusing for me.

A distinction is primarily made between sidecountry and backcountry. The former refers to off-piste skiing directly adjacent to ski areas. The official ski area is left via "gates". These are numbered and indicate a clear exit from the secured pistes. Said gates can be open or closed and indicate that leaving the secured pistes is only permitted with avalanche equipment. If they are closed, it is strictly forbidden to leave the groomed terrain. The Snow Patrol also checks this from time to time, and anyone who is spotted in forbidden terrain may be met at the end of the route by a not-so-pleased reception committee dressed in dark blue with a yellow cross on their jacket...

Backcountry, on the other hand, describes freeriding in areas that go beyond the sidecountry and where skins are used. You go to the limits of the ski area with the help of lifts or even completely without lift support and leave the prepared terrain to venture into more remote terrain. As far as I know, the Snow Patrol is not interested in what you do there. In my opinion, the transitions between backcountry and sidecountry are fluid and in the end, nobody really knows exactly what they are doing. But the terminology did cause some confusion at the beginning.

Snow Patrol and avalanche warning services

Another difference to freeriding in the Alps is that there is no proper mountain rescue service here. There is a snow patrol, but they often consist of lift staff or the police. In the event of an accident, there is therefore no mountain rescue service with a helicopter, but local guides are usually sent out to rescue the injured. The weather conditions rarely allow a helicopter to be flown. Moreover, there is supposedly only one helicopter for this purpose and it is based in Niseko, a 4-hour drive from Furano. Incidentally, costs for any rescues and recoveries outside the ski resort must be borne by the skier.

There is also no avalanche warning service here in Japan, comparable to our forecast system in the Alps. It is therefore advisable to keep an eye on the meteorological conditions and snow developments throughout the season, regularly digging snow profiles and keep up to date with other freeriders and guides. In this way, the community creates its own local report. In Furano, there is an avalanche education gathering once a week where you can exchange information. If you are unsure, you should go on guided tours with experts from the region to familiarise yourself with the area. Hokkaido is also not particularly known for sunny days. It snows almost every day at some point. Fantastic! But just as often you'll find yourself in a whiteout and can expect visibility to be low. When it does clear up, you should therefore memorise your surroundings well and make a note of all visible landmarks.

This season there is a pronounced "bamboo problem" on Hokkaido. Just as a lot of snow on warm meadow slopes in the Alps can lead to sliding snow problems, the bamboo here also forms a sliding surface when it is flattened by the amount of snow in warm temperatures. This was the case this autumn and since then 1, 2 or 3 metres of snow have been sliding down the slope at a leisurely pace. This creates pockets of sliding snow that open up like deep furrows. At some point, the sliding snow avalanches come off as a whole. This is particularly critical in spring, but sliding snow can also come loose at any time without warning, as you can read again and again in the avalanche reports in the Alps this season. What's more, the deep cracks scare you and you certainly don't want to fall in! Crevasse rescue sets might not be out of place here.

Finally, I'll come to a few organisational things and check the packing list:

Organisation

Japan is, as I know it from Germany, a big fan of bureaucracy. To be allowed to drive, you need a translation of your German driving licence. Unfortunately, your international driving licence is of no use here. However, the translation can be done online at JAF. The form can then be printed out at any 7Eleven using a code. You also need another form from the Japanese authorities called "Jūminhyō" to buy a car. This registers your residential address in Japan. Without this form, it is difficult to deal with the authorities in Japan. You should plan time to visit the municipality to apply for this document and bring your passport with visa and a current address.

Pack check:

So far I'm very happy with my packing strategy. I'm not (yet) lacking anything and bringing the camping equipment has already paid off. I managed the first night in a hut, and I'll report on that and a few tours here next time. The warning that it can get really cold here has been confirmed. Bringing warm clothing is definitely a good idea. So far, I've only had to upgrade to a pair of lined wellies because my down booties aren't high enough to set off in the morning in fresh snow on uncleared roads.
If you do need something: there are various second-hand shops that aren't super cheap but the quality is very good. You will find some bargains here as well as exorbitant prices. As always with second-hand, you just have to be lucky.

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This article has been automatically translated by DeepL with subsequent editing. If you notice any spelling or grammatical errors or if the translation has lost its meaning, please write an e-mail to the editors.

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