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Snow of Tomorrow | Green Labels

These seals promise to protect the environment and people

by Lisa Amenda • 11/25/2019

What do the many different wrap-around labels mean?

Labels and standards are intended to make it easier for customers to make purchases and make it clear at a glance under which conditions and with which resources an item of clothing was produced. But what is actually behind Bluesign, Fair Wear & Co. We have an overview.

Bluesign

Bluesign is an independent system that aims to minimize the environmental impact of textiles throughout the entire production process. For example, all raw materials are examined before they are used, hazardous pollutants are identified and, if possible, removed from the production chain. Bluesign relies on five standards:

Resource productivity: the end products should be manufactured with the lowest possible use of resources
Consumer protection: extensive controls ensure that substances harmful to the environment or health are not used
Water protection: the participating companies undertake to use a properly functioning wastewater treatment system
Immission control: air pollution is to be significantly reduced through a targeted reduction in CO2 emissions as well as strict criteria for emission-relevant substances; in addition, only purified exhaust air may be released
Occupational safety: Bluesign attaches great importance to occupational safety and improves working conditions through safety measures in the handling of hazardous substances and regular employee training

Through its own strict controls, Bluesign ensures that the buyer ultimately holds a product in their hands that is free from harmful substances and that has also been manufactured in a resource-saving manner and has a low impact on the environment. Bluesign currently uses the strictest standards in the world for this purpose.

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Lisa metaphorically rummages through the label jungle

Fair Wear Foundation

As an independent non-profit organization, the Fair Wear Foundation, or FWF for short, monitors working conditions and social standards in the production of clothing. FWF is guided by the guidelines of the International Labor Organization and aims to enforce a minimum standard of fair working conditions in textile-producing companies. This goal is to be achieved and secured in the long term by defining precise guidelines and carrying out constant checks. The members of the initiative are obliged to continuously monitor and verify compliance with the specified standards and guidelines. To date, manufacturers such as Haglöfs, Mammut, Ortovox and Vaude are members of the Fair Wear Foundation. Only after three years of membership may manufacturers have "Leader Status" and advertise individual products with it. The label says nothing about the environmental friendliness of a product, but whether it has been produced in a socially sustainable way.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

The world's leading standard for the processing of textiles made from organically produced natural fibers is the Global Organic Textile Standard, or GOTS for short. Until now, it has mainly been known for fair fashion labels, but more and more sports brands are also relying on the seal. GOTS-certified textiles must consist of at least 70 percent natural fibers from organic farming or animal husbandry. If an item of clothing consists of at least 95 percent organic natural fibers, the addition "organic" is awarded. The standard certifies the entire production process - from raw material extraction to the end product, as well as the supply chain and ecological and socially responsible criteria. For example, the cotton is grown organically and no pesticides or other harmful substances are used. Instead, natural fertilizers are used and the cotton is picked by hand.

Responsible Down

Down jackets are usually the first choice when it comes to lightweight yet warm insulating layers. But where does the down actually come from? The Responsible Down Standard, or RDS for short, has been in place since 2014 to ensure that it comes from ethically sound farms that comply with animal welfare standards. The standard provides buyers of down products with verifiable and complete information about the origin of the product - from the chick to the finished sleeping bag - and that the animals have suffered as little as possible as a result. The certificate is only issued if 100 percent of the down used meets the specified criteria:

the plucking of live animals is prohibited
forced feeding is prohibited
the welfare of the animals must be ensured at all times, including sufficient food and living space
RDS down and feathers must be labeled accordingly

Compliance with these guidelines is ensured by independent institutions. In principle, any company can have its products certified. Participating companies are assessed annually and unannounced inspections can take place throughout the year.

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Responsible Down Standard logo

Responsible Wool Standard (RWS)

In addition to the Responsible Down Standard, there is now also the Responsible Wool Standard, or RWS for short. The standard was launched in 2016 by the non-profit organization Textile Exchange and is the result of an initiative by Textile Exchange and H&M. This seal also focuses on animal welfare and guarantees that the sheep have been treated in accordance with the "five freedoms". These are:

Freedom from hunger, thirst and malnutrition
Freedom from discomfort
Freedom from pain, injury and disease
Freedom from fear and suffering
Freedom to express normal behavior

This includes, that controversial mulesing, i.e. the removal of the skin around the tail of sheep without the use of painkillers or anesthesia to prevent infestation with fly maggots, is prohibited. In addition, the RWS also includes sustainable farming and soil protection as well as full transparency in the supply chain, including a wool traceability system. However, the standard says nothing about the chemicals used to process the wool afterwards; animal welfare is clearly the main focus

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Responsible Wool Standard logo

Oeko-Tex Standard 100

The OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is a globally standardized certification system for textiles. It guarantees that the certified products are harmless to health and do not exceed the limit values for harmful substances. If an item of clothing is awarded the Standard 100, this even means that all components of the article, including threads, buttons etc., have been tested for harmful substances and are harmless to human health. The test is carried out by independent institutes on the basis of an extensive list of criteria. For example, banned azo dyes, carcinogenic or allergenic dyes, pesticides and plasticizers are excluded. The standard only examines raw, intermediate and end products; the manufacturing process is not included. However, the name "Oeko" can be misleading: it has nothing to do with ecological production.

Green Shape Vaude Eco Product

Green Shape is Vaude's in-house eco label. It guarantees customers fairly produced, environmentally friendly clothing made from sustainable materials throughout the entire product life cycle. From the main materials used to all production facilities. All additional components such as threads, zippers and pressures must also meet the high standards. For example, Vaude attaches great importance to repairability and durability in the design, the materials are selected according to ecological criteria, the production facilities are certified according to social standards, the products are washable at low temperatures and recyclable materials are used. The only drawback is that the certification only applies to Vaude products and the standard-setting organization and the company are not independent of each other.

Green Button

The Green Button is a new, governmental textile label from the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development, which was only introduced in September 2019. At the start, 27 companies are participating, including Vaude, for example. 26 others are currently in the testing process. The label identifies sustainable textiles and includes requirements for the product and the company. A total of 46 social and environmental criteria must be met: 20 company criteria and 26 social and ecological product criteria. The company criteria are based on the United Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights and the recommendations of the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) for the textile sector. In terms of the criteria for the individual products, the Green Head initially focuses on the production stages "cutting and sewing" and "bleaching and dyeing" and relies on already recognized seals: e.g. Bluesign or Fair Wear Foundation.

1% for the Planet

1% for the Planet is not a textile seal in the classic sense, but rather identifies companies that donate part of their turnover, or one percent to be precise, to environmental projects. It was founded by Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard.

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This article has been automatically translated by DeepL with subsequent editing. If you notice any spelling or grammatical errors or if the translation has lost its meaning, please write an e-mail to the editors.

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