High above the Glacier du Géant, the Giant's Glacier, the Brenva flank rises not far from the highest mountain in the Alps. To the east, on the Tour Ronde, is the mighty Gervasutti, probably one of the most famous couloirs in the Alps. A top-class destination for excellent skiers!
Ascent
The Aiguille du Midi cable car takes you from Chamonix to the starting point of the tour. From the mountain station, you descend the very exposed firn ridge (l'Arête de l'Aiguille du Midi) on foot with crampons until you reach a level at around 3700 m (in winter, a wire rope is attached to the firn ridge), where the world-famous Vallée Blanche begins.
From there, continue on skis over the mighty Glacier du Géant in a southerly direction to Pointe Adolphe Rey, where you have to put on your skins at the latest. At approx. 3300 m there is a large glacier break, which you have to bypass to the right or left depending on the conditions. Caution: danger of crevasses, always use a rope if there is a lot of fresh snow! Pass the north face of the Tour Ronde until you reach the west-facing Gervasutti Couloir.
The ascent is rewarded with a magnificent view of Mont Blanc. However, the mighty bergschrund can be somewhat problematic. It is best to try to cross it on the left-hand side, but the best route must ultimately be decided on the spot. The ascent continues along the couloir until you reach the summit. The last few meters to the summit were quite snow-free for us, so we got ready for the descent shortly beforehand.
Descent
Through the couloir (note: the bergschrund is quite hard to see on the descent), you ski back to the Glacier du Géant. Cross a large glacier break to reach the Salle à Manger (2400 m) and finally the Mer de Glace. There is a gondola lift on the left that leads to Montenvers station. The cog railroad takes you back to Chamonix.
Information
General: It is advisable to get an early ascent on the Aiguille du Midi cable car. Depending on the conditions, this tour can take a long time (bergschrund, ascent with lots of snow)
Difficulty (5-level scale): *****
Average and maximum gradient: 45° | 50°
Special dangers: Only start in absolutely safe conditions! Very steep couloir, falling is absolutely forbidden!!!
Equipment: Crampons, ice axe (ice tools), helmet, rope, basic glacier and climbing equipment
Exposure: W
Altitude difference start and finish: 3795 m | 1000 m
Altitude difference uphill and downhill: 590 m | 2590 m
Duration: approx. 7 hours
Best time of year: February to June
Accommodation: Various accommodation options in Chamonix or the Cosmiques hut
Addresses: Lots of information about the lifts and the area at www.chamonix.com
How to get there: From Bern to Martigny and then over the Col de la Forclaz pass to Chamonix.
Topographical maps: IGN - TOP 25 - Topographical map 3630 OT: Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc (1:25.