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adventure & travel

Canada is calling! - A winter and summer in the Kootenays | Part I

Skiing overseas: preparation, travel and accommodation

11/13/2025
Hannes Hemper
In January 2024, the time had come - a flight to another continent. Endless expanses, valley after valley. Not so different at first glance: mountains, trees, snow. But where are the villages? An eight-hour drive and just three real villages. And then: Nelson on Kootenay Lake. A little gem, full of love - and even more snow.

Why Nelson?

I - Hannes - am sitting in Innsbruck working on my Bachelor's thesis and already dreaming of the next stage in my life. It quickly becomes clear: it's going to be my first big trip during winter. Canada's endless nature, the guaranteed snow and countless ski films have lit my fire.

In the evening, I meet up with my colleague Florian for a beer - laptop open, browsing forums, making plans: Which place? How do we want to live?
Thanks to contacts from friends in Chile and Florian's Canadian experience five years ago, two options crystallize: Terrace or Nelson.

Terrace - far north, secluded, a family lift and endless touring possibilities. Nelson - a small hippy town with cafés, dance events, concerts and Whitewater as its local mountain. (Sam Kuch calls it his "home resort".) In the end, we don't just want to go powdering, but also have a social life - and maybe make a little movie. Decision made: Nelson.

Then the next question: apartment or camper? A friend finds a shared flat via Facebook, but we opt for the camper van option. More flexible, cheaper and perfect for road trips to Revelstoke or Kicking Horse. The basic plan was drawn up months before departure.

Preparing from home

The preparation for our Canadian adventure could be roughly divided into four sections: Visa, saving money, flight and gathering contacts.

Applying for a visa

For snow enthusiasts under 30, there is the working holiday visa. The application process is entirely done online, but you will need a lot of bureaucratic perseverance. I found Klara's article about her Japow trip and these instructions very helpful:
https://www.culture-xl.de/working-holiday-visum-kanada-in-7-einfachen-schritten/

Tip: Apply early! You have to hand in your fingerprints at a Canadian office (e.g. Berlin or Vienna), and the appointments fill up quickly.

How much money do you need?

The question of all questions: How much starting budget is realistic?
We planned to take €8,000 each with us. We wanted to bridge the first few months without having to work directly and concentrate fully on the sport and our film.

Included in our budget:

  • Season pass for Whitewater: approx. 1.000

  • Bought a motorhome so that we could live flexibly and go on road trips

We saved money in the traditional way with part-time jobs:

  • I was lucky enough to supervise the test events for K2 and work for a local ski manufacturer.

  • Florian was able to take the Oktoberfest in Munich with him - perfect timing at the end of September, shortly before his departure.

Of course, there are also plenty of classic jobs for skibums that you can secure in advance:

  • Liftie at a resort like Whitewater

  • Night Janitor at the resort - the perfect "powder job" because you have the day off

  • or Baldface Lodge (from dishwasher to all-round helper).

I write more about finding a job and financing on site in the corresponding section.

Finding the best flight

The cheapest and easiest connection to Canada is often with Westjet: Paris - Calgary or Vancouver. It's not uncommon to find offers of around €200 including baggage.
The TGV is also a super quick and relaxed way to get from Munich/Stuttgart to Paris.

I prefer to use Google Flights in incognito mode for my search. This gives you a good overview of different days and prices.
My own flight: booked 1 month in advance, €350 - if I had booked a flight 10 days later, it would only have been €200. Conclusion: Booking about 2 months in advance is enough to get a good offer.

Collecting contacts

Unbeatably important: Knowing local people. Friends of friends, family, acquaintances - every connection counts. We put out feelers months in advance and built up a small network of contacts in Vancouver, Revelstoke and Whistler. They all gave us tips that you won't find in any travel guide. Absolutely recommendable!

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Packing and arrival

Everyone has to decide for themselves what they really need - but I'll give you an insight into my thoughts, goals and experiences here. The goal was: resort travel, tours in the surrounding area, road trips and then the summer.

I had hand luggage plus two pieces of checked baggage weighing 24 kg each.

Ski & touring equipment

  • Powder skis with CAST system: 114 mm+, skins; I had the Line Optic - not ideal for whitewater with lots of treeskiing, something more playful recommended.

  • Touring skis: 100-106 mm CAST-Second Kit, skins; so I only needed one pair of toe pieces for both skis. One ski was unmounted, holes pre-drilled.

  • 2 ski pants: touring and resort version

  • jacket layers: shell, down, fleece/merino

  • backpacks: touring backpack 30+ l, resort/ABS backpack 20 l

  • sleeping backpack & sleeping pad

  • socks & underwear: 3 pairs of ski socks, 2 sets of merino underwear will do

  • Socks: one pair of ski/touring boots + high winter boots/ line apres booties 2.0 + street shoes

Things that are great to find on site:

  • Walkie Talkie: Rocky Talkie - no network in the resorts, easy to find on Facebook Marketplace

  • Clothing: Nelson has incredible Thriftstores - pants, sweaters, outdoor items; community sells via Marketplace

  • Renting snowboard gear: community extremely helpful. My colleague had lost his equipment in the post for two months and was able to borrow a board and jacket straight away thanks to a Facebook post.

Journey & first steps

  • Flight: Stuttgart → Paris → Vancouver

  • Work permit

    • Complete on site immediately after landing

    • Documents: All forms printed out + international insurance with start and end date

    • Important for stopovers in Canada: The visa must always be completed at the first Canadian arrival point. If you land in Calgary, for example, allow enough time before you continue your journey.

  • UBER from the airport to the hostel: 45 CAD (~27 €)

  • Overnight stay: 1 night at The Cambie Hostel - 50 CAD (~30 €)

  • Mobile phone contract: E-SIM with Phonebox with 75 GB for approx. 38 CAD (~23 €)

  • Tip for onward travel:

    • Public transport to Nelson is rare: A bus twice a week for around 160 €

    • Alternatives: Poparide (Canadian Blablacar), which I did, for 80 CAD (~50 €)

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Motorhome: buying and living

Our home on wheels

I was lucky that my travel partner flew over in December and I only joined him in January. But here are his experiences: Facebook Marketplace and a few days. In Vancouver itself, you can get from place to place very easily using public transport and Uber. In the end, we found a bus in Nanaimo on Vancouver Island - I was always there watching the video. If you like: instead of the ferry, there are also seaplanes that fly to the island for €80 as a student - a unique experience, he said.

What we looked out for

  • Two sleeping options

  • Propane or diesel heating

  • Low mileage

This is how the Bagel, aka a Ford E350 Winnebago, came into our possession - an American classic from the 90s. Bought for 7,000 CAD, and since Florian had time, invested a bit in new tires and repairs, so it ended up being 11,000 CAD or about 8,000 € - so 4,000 € each. As a solo traveler, I would recommend a Chevy Astro van or a truck with a camper body.

Life on the bus

Nelson is very accommodating in winter: You can either sleep at the resort upstairs with electricity and everything for 30 CAD a night - which we only did when it was snowing - or simply park at the airport for free. Walking distance to the wholesale supermarket: 3 minutes, and we actually parked there every day for 2 months.

You can easily get to the resort with friends or by hitchhiking. There is a parking lot just outside of Nelson, and almost every second car takes you up.

Showers: Nelson has a great rec center with sauna, fitness and yoga classes. Costs: €50 per month - very worthwhile.

Costs

Actually only food, fuel and repairs:

  • Food: approx. €300 per month, we cooked very well, definitely cheaper

  • Propane tank for heating every two weeks, approx. 40 CAD ~ 25€

As we stayed in one place a lot and traveled or hitchhiked with friends, the overall costs were very low. Nelson itself is not quite as cold as Golden, BC, for example, and with our heater and winter sleeping bags it was no problem - just be careful with the water tanks on the bus as they do freeze.

Drying ski clothes

We hung everything in the toilet and turned on our power generator for 2 hours in the evening and dried everything with a fan heater.

Laundry

Friends you make quickly, or the laundromat.

Dog

Simba, Florian's dog, was also with us. There is a dog park at the airport in Nelson, where you can go for a great run in the morning and after skiing. Of course, he was with us on ski tours, but unfortunately he wasn't allowed on the lift at the resort - unlike in Austria.

Learning & tips

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