Christmas falls on December 24 every year. An area of high pressure seems to be spreading over the Alps with similar dreamlike certainty. The difference to previous years: the white base is extremely clear. This makes snow sports activities on the mountain even more exciting. Despite poor snow conditions and adverse umbrella bar conditions, with a little motivation and creativity, even this adverse time can be overcome.
While enjoying a leisurely bike ride in Sportgastein, we take a look at the Schareck and the discussion starts as to whether the descent is possible or not. Together we choose a possible line. Two days later, in good weather, we look past the Tauernschleuse towards the Mölltal Glacier, the starting point of the first Christmas tour. Once at the top, we immediately head towards Sportgastein in powder snow.
After the first section, however, we are greeted by a nasty wind cover. Plus shade and wind. I guess that's what you call "European snow conditions". To our delight, the exit gully is in good condition and we can glide towards Sportgastein in poor snow conditions without encountering any rocks.
New snow
After a long wait, Mother Hulda finally gets to work at the start of the new year. Bluebird and icy temperatures draw us to Obertauern. The work of the fresh snow shaker brings us 40cm of the finest powder. A lot of particularly hard work now awaits us. The dangers should not be underestimated on this first beautiful day after the snowfall, as the fresh snow had fallen on frozen ground. However, this in no way deters the average skier and he plunges down the slopes without a second thought. Without any equipment on slopes where no experienced alpinist wants to be, you stop, traverse the steepest sections and are usually alone or with your children. Here we experience at first hand why the majority of avalanche victims are mourned every year during the peak season from Christmas to the beginning of January. At the sight of such "experts", you can only shake your head and hope that you yourself are not put in danger by their work.
The next day, we head straight back to Obertauern. In the meantime, the crowd concentrates on the umbrella bars again and we can enjoy our first tracks in comfort.
Where is the umbrella bar here?
After two really good powder days, we head off to tour the Weißsee glacier. It's a shame that this small area is about to close. What could be nicer than standing almost alone in a parking lot? No umbrella bars far and wide, no "Anton from Tyrol", no horsepower with four-wheel drive and summer tires, no "experts" who could trigger an avalanche with their alcohol fumes alone. Not even a hut, which now looks more like a hotel, can disturb this idyll. So we make our way to the Granatspitze in a stormy southerly wind. We only encounter one group on the ascent and can enjoy the glacier landscape alone all day. As the snow is very affected by the wind, we tackle the ascent of the Granatspitze. We fight our way to just below the summit. Unfortunately, the wind forces us to turn back. After all, we have to go back to the umbrella bar tonight. Frozen fingers are not yet the current fashion here.
Text & Pictures: Christian Skala, Georg Hattwich