Magical fjords in the Arctic Circle

Sun, sun, - nothing but sun. With a bit of bad luck, some light cloud cover, which didn't bring the longed-for precipitation either. There hasn't been such a dry winter in the Northern Alps for over 30 years. The powder mood reached its low point at the beginning of April 2011. It hadn't snowed significantly for weeks. And even if it did, it was only just enough to sugar the slopes, which had previously been mostly barren.

The news from Fabi came at just the right time on this gloomy late winter morning:

Of course, as a weather-dependent powder addict, the snowy winter in Scandinavia had not gone unnoticed by me. We quickly booked the flights and rental car, found two other companions in Patrick Gstrein and Gex Rathfelder and were already sitting in the rental car to cover the 1200 km from Trondheim to the north of Norway. Our noses were glued to the car windows during the entire long drive so that we wouldn't miss a single glimpse of the fantastic ski mountains far north of the Arctic Circle. Destination: the Lyngen Alps.

Pillows and Waiting Game

Our first impression on site was mixed: the mountains here grow directly out of the sea. A tangled network of picturesque fjords stretches far inland. Although there is still a full metre of snow down to the sea, the weather is typically Scandinavian: cloudy, gruelling sleet and a soggy blanket of snow in the lower, contrasting shrub layers

A group of French people join us and show us the way ahead on their map. We decide to continue, but keep a very safe distance in the narrow valley ahead of us. Later, we realize that the fresh snow has bonded better with the old snow than we first feared.

After the valley, we quickly reach the extensive, flat Koppangsbreen ("breen" = Norwegian: glacier). A few hours later, with great views of the glacier, steep mountains and the sea, we reach the summit. At least that's what we assume. However, our French friends, armed with a map and GPS, have headed for the wrong pre-summit. Never mind, Tafeltinden is almost within throwing distance. Instead of walking flat for another hour, we unanimously leave it at that. Fabi, Pati and Gex, who have hardly done any touring so far this season, are already complaining enough about blisters on their feet and chafed shins with their downhill-oriented equipment. The descent follows the ascent track and is correspondingly flat. The fresh new snow and the view of the Strup glacier and the sea or fjords make up for the effort of the ascent.

Exhausted after this mile-long ski tour, we found permanent accommodation for a few days at the Magic Mountain Lodge in Lyngseidet. Patrik and Henrika, two young ex-skibums and world travelers, run a hostel-style lodge here. In a relaxed international atmosphere, we have a good time in the cozy dining room or living room, sit together and tell stories with the other ski touring friends. No doubt a beer or two has also been drunk. Patrick, who has spent several winters in the well-known Alpine spots in his motorhome, is also happy to share his touring experience with us and has plenty of tips for relaxed ski touring and challenging steep faces.

I listen carefully to his steeper suggestions. We go out onto the balcony and he shows me a mountain to our right. He asks if I would like Carvingtinden, Lyngseidet's local mountain. It could be a bit steeper, I reply, looking at the 35° pleasure slope. I should keep my eyes on the mountain range a little further behind. If the avalanche and snow conditions are unfavorable, there are also some flatter options here. The plan for the last two days in Lyngseidet is set!

The first turns still go smoothly, but it has already become noticeably warmer. The snow increasingly starts to stick to the skis and more and more wet snow sluff rushes down the slope next to us. Two or three more jumps over the deepening snow slides, a few more safety stops because of the sluff and we reach the bottom of the slope. Yeah, that was probably one of the best descents of the season. Exhausted, tired, but with a satisfied smile, we look back at the slope. Just under an hour later, Pati also skis down the slope. It took him a little longer as he had taken a nap in the sun at the summit.

We pack up our bivouac and set off on our journey home. 1200 kilometers by car and 800 kilometers by plane later, we arrive in Innsbruck. The thermometer shows over 20 degrees, sunshine galore. The good morning coffee is brewing and the pleasant aroma of coffee wafts from the kitchen to my nose. The weather forecast continues to speak of stable high-pressure weather with a summer feeling over the Alps.

Information

Literature

Toppturer i Troms, Espen Nordahl, Friflyt (ed.), 82 tours in Malangen, Kvalöya, Ringvassöya, Tromsö fastland, Balsfjord, Tamokdalen, Lyngsalpene, Käfjordalpene and Ulöya. ISBN: 978-8293090038, price: 399 NKR (approx. 50 euros)

Map

Lyngenhalvöya. Lyngen, Storjord,Tromsö & Balsfjord kommuner, Ugland IT (ed.), order no. 2625. 1:50,000 touring map with Lyngen peninsulas north and south without marked tours. Available at the sports store in Lyngseidet and at Magic Mountain Lodge. Price: 159 NKR (approx. 20 euros)

Accommodation

Magic Mountain Lodge in Lyngseidet

Group houses in Koppangen