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SpotCheck | Rishiri, Japan

One island, one mountain and 1000 possibilities.

by Klara Stang • 03/28/2024

The island of Rishiri.

Klara Stang

The island of Rishiri.

Klara Stang
The island of Rishiri, north-east of Hokkaido, Japan, seems to have been somewhat forgotten. Or maybe it's still an insider tip. We're not quite sure. But one thing is certain: it is a jewel among touring paradises! If you want to climb to the summit, you need mountaineering expertise and the necessary equipment.

The island

Rishiri is located north-east of Hokkaido and can only be reached by ferry from Wakkanai. The island is almost circular, with Mt. Rishiri, a long inactive volcano, at its centre. The crater of the former volcano rises majestically into the air; its jagged crown and the countless couloirs and ridges extend in all directions to the sea. Rishiri has 63 kilometres of coastline and a total area of 183 square kilometres, and is home to around 6000 people. The summit is 1721 metres above sea level. Next to Rishiri is the small sister island of Rebun, which, unlike Rishiri, is uninhabited and much flatter and elongated. Wakkanai is the northernmost town in Japan and the Russian island of Sakhalin can be seen in the distance from here.

As already mentioned, you can only get to the island by ferry. A single journey per person costs between 2800 and 3500 yen one-way and a further 18,000 yen if you take your car with you (approx. 135 euros for two people per journey). A car is not a must, but if you want to be mobile on the island in winter, you should think carefully about whether you want to do without one. Public transport is only available to a limited extent and it is still too cold in winter for cycling, which is a very good alternative in summer.

There were four of us and we took the car with us because it makes it easier to explore the island and reach the access points for ski tours.

The island is actually known for its summer tourism, cycling and hiking. In winter, it seems pretty deserted up here in the north and apart from us, we don't meet any other tourists. We wonder why, because the island is an absolute dream for us and for all ski tour fanatics. But it's probably not particularly well known yet and an absolute insider tip.

The sea at your back and the mountain in front of you.

Filippo Gianotti

The sea at your back and the mountain in front of you.

Filippo Gianotti

Ski tours on Rishiri

We've had our sights set on travelling to the island all winter, but the weather here in the height of winter is pretty unstable, stormy and cold. Only in spring is it possible to plan serious tours here. But even then there is no guarantee of consistent, good weather. There used to be a small ski resort on the island, but like so many other amusement parks and resorts in Japan from the 90s, it has long since closed. We were lucky and our three days on the island were surprisingly good. If you have a bit of time and a bit of luck with the sun, you will find a new route, a new couloir every day. We tried our hand at the north and the west.

Immediately after our arrival in the afternoon it clears up and we decide to take a tour on the west side to enjoy the sunset in the sea from an elevated position.

The next day, we set off early towards the north side. Unfortunately, the road leading to the access point for ski tours has not yet been cleared. If you want to tour Rishiri, you shouldn't shy away from any routes. We have learnt that only a few roads lead into the interior of the island and even fewer roads are cleared. Therefore, you usually start relatively close to the coast and have to work your way through the forest towards the mountain. So we start our journey from the village of Rishirifuji at the Rishirifuji Hot Spring Onsens car park. On our way towards the mountain, we encounter the dangerously huge clearing vehicles. So the road to Rishiri Hokuroku Campsite is clear for the next day. Unfortunately a day too late for us. We walk a good 10 kilometres on the flat to the foot of the mountain. Mt. Rishiri is 1,721 metres high and we recommend climbing the peak from one of the flat ridges to the north. There is an emergency hut halfway up. As the wind became too strong for us from an altitude of 1005 metres and we didn't bring crampons and ice axes with us to Japan, we decided to enjoy the snow-filled northern gullies. If you are seriously considering the summit, you should bring ice tools and crampons and reach the summit in the early hours of the morning, as it usually only peeks out of the clouds in the morning and evening hours. In winter, considerable amounts of snow accumulate on Rishiri, but the constant strong wind and the sun in spring make the summit an icy affair.

The tours around the volcano are a highlight, whether you have summit ambitions or are looking for powder and beautiful views. With the sea behind you (and actually also in front of you, if you're not busy admiring Mt Rishiri), it's almost effortless. Another typical feature of tours on Hokkaido is that you simply lapping good descents, i.e. you do them several times in a row. Once we reached the mountain, we rode our back twice.

After our tour, there is still enough time to explore the rest of the island and see the mountain from all sides. The round trip by car takes about 1 hour and for this alone it is worth having the vehicle with you. The snow-covered dunes reach right down to the water's edge and Mt Rishiri shows its best side from every angle. We enjoy the sunset on the beach with its small fishing boats and lighthouse.

On our last day on the island, the weather changes and it gets stormy in the afternoon, so we decide to head for a smaller hill with a wonderful view of Mt Risihiri, the village of Rishirifuji and the sea. On the north side, we find unexpectedly powdery descents in open terrain and decide without further ado that this fun must be repeated. The lap starts again until the wind and hunger drive us back.


In conclusion, I can say that the island, although not cheap, was an absolute highlight of our trip to Japan that I can only recommend. The island doesn't offer much more than a few restaurants and an onsen (natural hot springs in public baths) in winter, but the variety of tours here is huge. However, you need a bit of luck with the weather and conditions. Compared to most mountains in Hokkaido, Rishiri is very steep and avalanches are regularly reported. Situational planning, the right equipment and safe handling are essential for the steeper sections. If you want to play it safe, you can climb the flat ridges; here, too, you will be rewarded with a wonderful view.

If you come to Hokkaido to ski, you shouldn't miss this gem!

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