Crack rescue is one of the topics that most tourers, ski mountaineers and freeriders find very complex. However, the basic principles are actually quite simple and the tools are not rocket science either. Once you have understood both, you are actually equipped for all situations on the glacier. In this six-part article series, we would like to introduce you step by step to crevasse rescue and its tricks and knacks.
The complexity of crevasse rescue, which makes this topic a nightmare for most people, is actually none at all. The basic procedure is relatively simple and not difficult to learn. And even though many of the materials and techniques involved come from climbing and mountaineering, you don't have to be an experienced climber or alpinist to be adept at crevasse rescue. Of course, it helps if you know how to use ropes and equipment from these activities, but this is by no means a prerequisite and this series of articles is aimed precisely at those freeriders and tourers who have little previous knowledge of alpine climbing.
One of the basic problems with crevasse rescue is the variety of techniques, strategies, knots and equipment that can be used, which means that it takes a long time before you think you are prepared for all situations. Unfortunately, there is no one-size-fits-all approach to crevasse rescue that guarantees an optimal solution in all possible scenarios. Nevertheless, you can memorize a pattern and stick to it, especially if you are only traveling in glaciated terrain in exceptional cases. Then you just have to live with the fact that you may spend more time and energy on crevasse rescue than necessary.
However, with this series of articles on Moutain knowledge crevasse rescue, we give you all the knowledge you need to master emergency situations on the glacier economically.
Only the last step
First, however, you should realize that crevasse rescue, similar to companion rescue in the event of an avalanche, is only the last step in the chain of measures. First and foremost, all prevention strategies must be applied in order to avoid this emergency in the best possible way. Knowledge of the conditions and their significance for the stability of snow bridges, basic knowledge of the formation and probable orientation of crevasses, local knowledge with a knowledge of crevasse zones and abysses and the resulting strategies for accessing or traveling on glaciers are the more important measures that can only be partially taught in books and are not covered in this series of articles. You should therefore take every opportunity to learn from experienced riders who know the area. The most efficient way to learn such content is in glacier courses run by mountain schools and alpine clubs. Good mountain sports books such as PowderGuide.com Free Ski also provide a good introduction to the subject.
Another parallel to companion rescue in avalanche accidents is our dependence on our companions. We need to be able to rely on our companions to be able to rescue us from the same predicament. The third parallel is training. Only if we have practiced the moves and steps often enough will we be able to remain calm, act correctly and avoid mistakes and panic in an emergency. We can practise on glaciers, especially in summer under controlled conditions, as well as at home in a stairwell or similar.
But now have fun with our series of articles
- Knot and material science (next week)
- Anchor construction
- Pulleys and other rescue methods
- Rescue strategies
- Example applications and types
Note: Some parts of this article series can be found in the book "PowderGuide Free Ski" . Anyone who suspects plagiarism is mistaken. The author of this series of articles wrote all the relevant sections of the book.
