Snow of Tomorrow | Clothing turns people into individuals…

The dark side of the textile industry

According to estimates, global textile production is responsible for around ten percent of human-made greenhouse gas emissions. That is more than international air and sea traffic combined (source: German Environment Agency, 2023). Before an item of clothing ends up on the shelf, it has often already traveled up to 20,000 kilometers and left a considerable ecological footprint.

Most production takes place in Asia: more than 50 percent of clothing sold in Europe comes from China, India, Bangladesh and Turkey. An example of the dimensions: To produce a single cotton T-shirt, an estimated 2,700 liters of fresh water are needed, which is enough water to supply one person with drinking water for two and a half years. But how can sustainable use be achieved?

Sustainable use of clothing

The most sustainable step is often the supposedly simplest: do I really need something new? There are now a variety of sustainable options for the classic "new purchase". Check whether one of these options is a possibility:

• Borrowing instead of buying: This can be a sensible option, especially for infrequent activities such as alpine tours or via ferratas, and can save resources and money. Many alpine club sections or specialized stores now offer equipment rental.

• Repairing instead of replacing also significantly extends the service life. You can often repair minor damage yourself, while larger repairs are often carried out by the manufacturer or you can take the item to a tailor near you. Many climbing gyms also offer soling services for worn climbing shoes.

• (Online) second-hand and the passing on of unused items of clothing are also sensible alternatives.

Choice of materials: Functionality and responsibility

If a new purchase is necessary, it is worth taking a look at the materials.

Outdoor clothing should be lightweight, breathable, insulating or water-repellent, depending on the intended use. However, these properties raise ecological issues, such as with merino wool or down.

Merino wool

Merino wool is particularly popular with mountain sports enthusiasts due to its temperature-regulating and low-odour properties. The wool mainly comes from Australia, New Zealand, Argentina or South Africa. Mulesing is a critical issue. Mulesing is a controversial but widespread treatment in which folds of skin are cut out of the animals. This is intended to protect the heavily wool-covered Merino sheep from fly maggot infestation in the skin folds. The procedure is usually carried out under extremely painful conditions without anaesthetic and is banned in the EU. Mulesing is still very common in wool exporting countries such as Australia.

Common certifications can provide guidance when buying merino products:

• Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), an internationally recognized certification for animal welfare, environmental and social standards

• ZQ-Merino focuses on animal welfare, mulesing ban and sustainable agriculture (New Zealand Merino Company)

• Although merino wool is a renewable raw material, its production requires an enormous amount of water and chemicals.

Down

Down is the fine underplumage of ducks and geese and is a classic in the outdoor industry due to its excellent warmth-to-weight ratio. However, its production is ethically sensitive, as live plucking and stuffing are banned in the EU, but there are no uniform global laws.

Common certifications can provide guidance when buying down products:

• Responsible Down Standard (RDS) prohibits live plucking and stuffing and focuses on transparency along the supply chain.

• Global Traceable Down Standard (GTDS) guarantees traceability and strict animal welfare requirements and is currently considered the strictest standard.

• Downpass focuses on quality and traceability, with lower animal welfare requirements than RDS or GTDS.

Alternatives to animal materials

In addition to animal fibers, (modern) fibers offer a functional and more environmentally friendly alternative.

• Organic cotton is biodegradable, but requires a lot of water and energy.

• Lyocell (Tencel®), made from wood, requires up to 50% less energy and water than cotton and is biodegradable.

• Recycled synthetic fibers can be a sensible choice if care is taken to avoid microplastics (e.g. through laundry bags or filter inserts).

Conclusion

Animal or synthetic fibers can never be produced completely ecologically or ethically. Nevertheless, conscious purchasing decisions, common certifications, reduced consumption or the use of repairs can significantly reduce the ecological footprint.

Sustainability does not start with the purchase, but with the question of what we really need.