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Freeridebase Fornohütte

Starting point for ambitious ski tours in Bergell

by Totti Lingott 05/01/2019
The granite giants in pre-Gallia stand ruggedly. However, they were only able to withstand the Romans until around 100 BC, when they passed under Roman rule. No, this is not about a new volume of Asterix and Obelix! It's about the Bergell, whose name was originally derived from the Latin word Praegallia (pre-Gallia). Today, Bergell is mainly located in the southern part of Graubünden. The wild mountain peaks form the border with Italy.

The striking peaks of the three side valleys Val Forno, Val da l'Albigna and Val Bondasca are particularly popular with climbers. The peaks above Val Bondasca in particular have famous names such as Piz Badile and Piz Cengalo. The latter made headlines at the end of August 2017 when several million cubic meters of rock and debris slid into the valley during a major rockslide. Since then, large parts of the valley have been closed due to further potential collapses and no tours should be undertaken there until further notice.

Luckily, there are a number of equally worthwhile peaks to be climbed in the two eastern, non-endangered valleys - always on impressive and more or less challenging ski tours. Of the SAC huts, only the Forno hut is open in winter (the Albigna hut has a well-equipped winter room) and is a perfect base for several days. The stable conditions of late winter and its long spring days are particularly suitable for a stay and extensive tours.

The ascent with touring skis from the Maloja Pass takes four hours. The route first takes you along the groomed cross-country ski trail to Plan Canin and then through the wild and romantic Forno Valley. More ahead than up. You haven't seen the glacier here for a long time. Originally built on the edge of the glacier, the hut is now a good 250 meters above the valley floor at 2574 m above sea level. In 1889, the year it was built, the two builders, the Alpine explorer Theodor Curtius and the English mountain guide and first hut keeper Christian Klucker, only had to step outside the door to stand on the glacier. Christian Klucker remained the hut manager for the first 30 years. From there, the two climbed some of the Bergell peaks for the first time ever at the beginning of the 20th century and shaped the history of mountaineering in Bergell with their existence.

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On the way through the wide Forno valley, you see the hut for the first time as soon as the valley turns south. By then, your legs have already covered several kilometers and so you are all the more pleased to see it. Situated on the rocky ridge below Monte del Forno, the hut towers over the white valley like a fortress. The last steeper ascent is even more challenging, but you are rewarded with a delicious soup and a cool hop spritzer at the hut.

After this, your strength returns faster than expected and you can tackle the route to the local mountain, Monte del Forno, with light luggage. The standard route takes around 2.5 hours on the summer trail in a westerly direction to the Sella del Forno (2769 m) and always follows the ridge to the ski depot at around 3100 m. From there it is an easy climb to just below the summit. The ridge has been completely equipped with steel chains by hut manager Beat and is easy to walk on, provided the chains have already been cleared of snow and ice. After crossing a small snow field, you reach the summit of Monte del Forno (3213 m). Depending on the snow conditions, you may need snowshoes, crampons and an ice axe. The descent can then be made through one of the couloirs to the west of the ascent line, depending on the conditions.

Just opposite the hut is another well-known tour destination: Monte Rosso (3087 m). With its imposing north face, it attracts ambitious downhill skiers in stable conditions. But moderate ski tourers also get their money's worth on the south-western variant from and to the valley floor. In addition to those mentioned, there are a number of other worthwhile peaks such as the Cima di Val Bona, the Cima di Rosso, the Monte Sissione, the Cima di Castello, the Cima dal Cantun and many more.

Info

During the touring season, the hut is open from the beginning of March to the beginning of May, or longer depending on conditions. This spring 2019, it will definitely be open until 5 May, but possibly even longer. Here is the link to the Fornohütte website, where you can also find some tour descriptions.

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