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SpotCheck | Engelberg-Titlis

Once upon a time, hidden above the clouds....

02/22/2025 by Klara Stang
Three out of five Big Fives travelled, but more than two reasons to come back Engelberg's reputation as a freeride mecca precedes it. But what is it like in the notorious area when there is no fresh snow? In the past few days, fresh snow had been forecast time and again, but just before the deadline, Ullr decided to leave Engelberg out this time. The forecast for "our" Friday is 10-20 cm and we're keeping our fingers crossed.

Arrival and preparation

When we arrive on Thursday evening, it is already dark outside. There is not a star in the sky and in the village of Engelberg only a few mounds of snow, pushed together by snow clearing vehicles, bear witness to the snow hidden here. Excited about the next three days, we go to sleep. When we wake up the next morning, it is still dark outside, but this time rather grey. From our hotel room, we can only just see as far as the forecourt, as we are surrounded by a thick fog. The webcam from above doesn't look promising either, but we try our luck anyway.

Our hotel is centrally located, less than two minutes' walk from the railway station and the Ski Lodge next door and about 10 minutes to the valley station. So we set off through a mixture of snow and drizzle to get a first impression of the area. However, we soon had to abandon the idea of "getting a picture". No visibility at the top either. The famous Titlis Rotair gondola disappears into nothingness, while we have absolutely no idea what's going on around us. We can't resist a few runs in the resort and so we glide through the void, hoping this time not to leave the piste, as we can't see anything more than the next pillar.

All right - let's leave the Titlis alone today and let the weather gods work on the snow conditions. In the evening, we meet snowboarder and Engelberg local "King" Yves Hüsler at the ski lodge, as he has invited us to ride with him the next day.

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Freeriding with the King of Engelberg

We also wake up on Friday in a thick soup of fog. Nothing is moving outside yet and Jojo and I are a little worried about how things are going to continue. But we remain optimistic. We meet Yves at the station at 08:20 sharp and take the bus to the valley station instead of walking. He has already warned us - he doesn't like walking and it's not really necessary on the Titlis. So we leave the skins at home today and grab our downhill-orientated freeride skis. In the gondola, it slowly but clearly gets brighter and then WOW - the Titlis and the surrounding mountains are bathed in sunlight, blue skies and a sea of clouds as far as the eye can see. A marvellous view that makes you understand where the name Engelberg might have come from. Engelberg is known for its BIG FIVE freeride runs:

Steinberg, Sulz, Laub, Steintäli and Galtiberg

Today we have chosen three of the five, the three that are feasible without a traverse and at the moment. We head straight for the first one. The Steinberg is clearly visible below the Titlis Rotair gondola and is dotted with a few protruding pieces of glacier and several large cliffs. Unfortunately, the hoped-for fresh snow has not materialised this time, but we still want to give it a try.

After the first few turns, however, we are quite surprised at the quality of the snow. We were expecting hard, wind-compressed snow with a lid, but on the contrary, the snow is unusually good. And so we follow Yves downhill through the labyrinth of stones, glacier sections and quite fun snow towards Trübsee. The descent is steep in places and requires knowledge of where to traverse and when to turn off, which is no problem with Yves, but you should take a closer look at the route on your own. And you should also take a look around: it's really impressive when you look up and suddenly a huge blue piece of ice rises out of the rock in front of you, which you've just steered around. Because the snow here was still so good, we decide to ski the big Sulz second, where you ski down into the same valley, only you start from a different point. We wind our way back down to Trübsee through a few gullies and open faces with a headwind. Here too, despite the lack of fresh snow, we still find a few slopes with decent powder turns. The third lap takes us over another variant of the Steinberg and back over the glacier.

However, as the wind continues to pick up up here and the sections that were previously easy to ride are now slowly becoming bogged down, we decide to tackle the third destination for today. The “Laub”. For this we start at the "Stand". Yves takes us on his favourite lap, which he suspects could still be quite good. We first have to cross a few rocks and stones and I wonder whether this is the right route. Once we reach our destination, there is no longer any doubt, as a beautiful hollow, lined with untracked snow, opens up our journey into the valley. As the avalanche conditions are favourable, it is possible to ski the “Laub” today. This is known for its avalanche risk due to the wide open terrain. We are also cautious, but the situation here has eased and we enjoy knee-deep powder. Unbelievable, even though it's been days since the last snowfall. At the bottom, we come out at a rustic hut and have to take the "Freeride Express" from here. An old Toyota Haice 4WD that will make the hearts of all Japan lovers beat faster. The journey back to the start of the valley descent costs 2.50CHF. An acceptable price for the little extra adventure, but if you want to save the money, you can also push out or walk.

Successful Finish

In addition to freeriding, Engelberg is also known for its freeride scene. At the weekend, a DJ always plays on the Trübsee terrace, as well as later in the Ski Lodge, and live music can also be found here. Everything NOT under the star of après-ski. Thank the angels!

So after a long day on skis, we reward ourselves on the Trübsee terrace with an isotonic drink and some relaxed techno music and enjoy the sun, because as these are primarily north-facing slopes, you don't get much of it otherwise.

We have chosen a tour for our last day here. The fog hangs in the valley again, but this time we are sure of what awaits us at the top and put on the sun cream. We quickly forget about the ski resort and the hustle and bustle here and ascend undisturbed. We catch a glimpse of the descent and already have a grin on our faces. A wonderful open face and then several ridges and hollows, lots of untracked variants and, above all, really good pow pow. A successful conclusion to our weekend in Engelberg.

When skiing off-piste, always exercise caution, consult the current avalanche report and pay attention to the weather and wildlife protection zones. The routes presented should only be chosen by experienced freeriders.

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