The first surprise comes on the journey from Zernez, when you suddenly find yourself in front of a narrow tunnel and the traffic lights turn red. Ok, it's dark, there's no one there (the border post is also unmanned), how does it work here with the tunnel, are there special times, do I have to ring the bell or honk the horn somewhere...? But before too many questions remained unanswered, the traffic lights switched to green and I sped through the tunnel. On the other side, the friendly woman at the barrier asked for toll and I continued along the reservoir to Livigno. Livigno is a duty-free town in the Italian province of Sondrio in Lombardy. It lies at an altitude of 1,816 metres above sea level and has a home brewery of the same name, so much for now.
Coming from Davos, the snow became less and less and so my expectations of powder runs and realising the full potential of the area were rather low. But it was my first time there and I was happy just to see the terrain so that I knew where to go on future visits. But I'll say this much in advance: even if there's no powder, there's plenty to do on and off the piste and of course you should never lose sight of the Aperol.
Livigno is divided into two valley sides and ski resorts: the so-called Carosello and Motollino on the other side. We spent the first day in the Carosello 3000 area. Livigno does a lot to bring freeriders closer to its magnificent terrain and never forgets the issue of safety. Whether it's the safety spot at the exit of the mountain station, the avalanche report that is posted everywhere, or the guides who checked each of us for complete safety equipment.
Due to the snow conditions, we limited ourselves to cruising through the resort and were all glad when we reached the first pit stop. The coffee break thawed our frozen limbs, and outside it was clear, bitterly cold and stormy. The "locals" were always on hand and gave lots of open and honest information about the terrain and Livigno in general. Shortly before lunch, I was approached by Davide and asked if I would like to get to know the "hinterland" a little. To be honest, I was sceptical about the conditions and was thinking of a crowbar action to somehow show what the terrain had to offer in the right conditions. I said that this was absolutely not necessary given the snow conditions and that I could very well imagine it - I only had limited desire for a combined descent of rocks and wild undergrowth. However, when Francesco said that he would also be very happy to take part if he didn't have a group, I agreed to the experiment and set off with Davide.
The descent through a couloir into Val Fedaria was fantastic despite the generally poor snow conditions and we really stepped on the gas and had fun. Merci Davide!" The grins were wide as we arrived for the general lunch meeting at La Stuvetta .
At lunchtime, the topic of safety was taken up again and, after a theoretical input, we were allowed to coordinate and manage a multiple burial as a group. We then moved seamlessly from the mountain to the hallowed halls of ALPsolut, where we learnt more about the creation of an avalanche report from the avalanche warning officers, as well as about general features of the mountain world of Livigno.
If you like classic après-ski - with dancing on the tables, ten naked hairdressers, topless, drinking until the doctor comes - you'll find plenty to choose from. We limited ourselves to a nice beer in a cosy atmosphere, which also exists. If you want to experience a cosy evening with good food, wine and local liquid specialities above Livigno, it is best to visit the Ristoro Scialket. Access by car is only possible with a permit, but the best way to get there is on snowshoes or from the edge of the piste (be careful when snow groomers are in use!).
Livigno offers a playground not only for experienced freeriders, but also for off-piste beginners. If you're not quite sure of yourself yet, you can put yourself in the care of the experienced guides without any worries, learn a lot, cruise powder and perhaps soon dare to go on the marked ski tours. These two marked tours in Livigno clearly indicate the direction and make orientation easier, but are not protected from alpine dangers (avalanches) and require a certain level of expertise.
The day in the Mottolino ski resort also showed us the potential of the terrain, although unfortunately we weren't able to try it out this time due to the lack of snow. After a short ice climbing session with the guides, it was soon time for the wine tasting. The Casa Vinicola Nera and Azienda Agricola Caven wineries spoilt us with delicacies from the steep vineyards of Valtellina before we headed to the Stalet restaurant for dinner. After good wine and good food, this could only be topped by a brilliant pub night with live music. We found this at Marcos Pub. Here, a live band plays almost every evening, sometimes chilled out and sometimes belting it out.
We all had a leisurely breakfast on the last day before we set off with the guides towards the via ferrata and Tiroline. It had a special charm, as it had snowed a few centimetres overnight, making it a kind of winter ascent in combined terrain. Anyone who has survived all this should definitely have lunch at agriturismo La Tresenda even if it's just an espresso. A little tip: don't be surprised if a llama suddenly appears in the restaurant, because Livigno is always good for a surprise.
On behalf of PowderGuide, I would like to thank the Livigno tourist organisation (Martina), Georgia, the guides Alberto, Davide and Francesco, as well as everyone else who contributed to this fantastic experience.
Details:
Country: Italy (duty-free)
Homepage: https://www.livigno.eu/de/home-inverno
Population: approx. 6,250
Altitude: 1,816
Sleeping: Endless possibilities, hotel, apartment, couch surfing, meeting a woman/man
Eating: From fast food to haut cuisine
Shopping: In addition to groceries in a wide variety of shops, everything that makes the "common shopper" happy
Activities: Freeride, alpine skiing, cross-country skiing, fat biking, wellness/adventure pool, ice climbing, heliskiing, night culture and cosy get-togethers
Guides: http://guidealpine.info/, www.whitelineguides.com, www.valgoi.eu
Don't miss: La Skieda the best, craziest and most unique telemark festival on the planet. This event would be worth an article of its own....
