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SpotCheck | St. Anton at the Arlberg

An area that is unrivalled.

02/08/2025 • by Johanna Korte
St. Anton at the Arlberg is a household name for anyone on one or two boards - be it because of the legendary après-ski or the breathtaking pistes. But away from the booming bass beats, there are also impressive freeride runs, especially the famous Valluga, which challenges even experienced winter sports enthusiasts with its unmistakable panorama and demanding route. We were allowed to take a closer look at the whole thing over the weekend.

Klara and I were lucky enough to spend a weekend in St. Anton and get to the bottom of the area's legendary reputation. Our journey began in a relaxed manner by train from Innsbruck, and the Hotel Schwarzer Adler, which provided us with accommodation, was within easy walking distance of the station.

We arrived on Thursday evening and had been assigned a guide from Arlberg Guides for Friday morning to show us the area and the most exciting freeride descents. When we arrived at the office, there was a brief moment of confusion: we were standing there in our freeride outfits, with thick skis and avalanche backpacks, and George, our guide, came towards us in his ski instructor outfit with piste skis. Something didn't seem right. But the misunderstanding was quickly cleared up and George set off with a broad grin to get his freeride boots and touring skis.

As soon as that had happened, we were off - off to the lift, beacon check and straight towards the first descent. George took a quick look at our skiing technique on the piste and then headed for the Valluga run.

The “Valluga” and the “Antenne”

The Valluga runs in St. Anton are truly a jewel and are among the most spectacular and challenging freeride routes in the Alps. It begins on the Valluga, the highest peak of the Arlberg (2,811 metres), from where you can enjoy a stunning view of the surrounding peaks and the valley. To get to the Valluga North run, skiers and snowboarders first have to take the Valluga cable car. This is a cosy 6-person gondola that can only be used with skis/boards if accompanied by a guide. Luckily, we had George with us, which meant we didn't have to trudge uphill, the only alternative to get to the entrance.

The route itself is unmarked and presents a special challenge - perfect for experienced freeriders looking for an adventure. It's no wonder that many tourists book this descent as the ultimate destination of their holiday.

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This winter has unfortunately been a bit lean in terms of snow, and so the Valluga descent began with a steep mogul slope that traversed right above a cliff - a classic "warm-up descent" to get the legs going. But after this short, bumpy section, we were finally able to enjoy the first powder turns of the day. The valley offers endless possibilities and even after two weeks without fresh snow, we still found one or two untracked patches that put a big grin on our faces.

The descent takes us straight back to the ski resort and the lift. We head back up again. For the second descent, we had planned to ski down into the same valley from the other side. So we set off and bootpacked to the northern Trittkopf - also known as the "antenna descent", as there is an antenna on the summit that cannot be overlooked. We enjoyed the interplay of light and shade, as well as a few turns in the powder, and a small gully system took us back to the chairlift, where we took a well-earned snack break to recharge our batteries for the next adventure.

Afternoon Tour

It's lunchtime and still enough time for another descent, this time with ascent elements. This time we change mountains and take a few descents and gondolas to get to the other side of the ski resort. We get an insight into how big the area is and how many variations there are to discover here. Another thing we notice is the Arlberg effect. George's comment: "If you can see it someone will ski it". When we arrive at the destination exit of the gondola, we traverse briefly before skinning up and ascending for around 300 metres. The first descents from our last summit, the Peischelkopf, were simply marvellous - without doubt the best of the day. The last part, however, had a little surprise in store for our legs. The last slope had a gradient of around 47°, perfect for a final adrenaline-fuelled descent. A few days earlier, however, the entire slope had fallen away, which made skiing considerably more difficult. With burning legs we all arrived safely at the bottom - one more reason to treat ourselves to a well-deserved after-ski beer. Together with George, we stopped off at a quieter bar, away from the après-ski hustle and bustle, and chatted a little over an isotonic drink.

Conclusion

Even though après-ski is not necessarily our thing, it quickly became clear why so many people come to St. Anton for this very reason. However, we are particularly enthusiastic about the freeride potential of the area and can recommend a trip here to everyone. Apart from the routes we skied, the area offers countless other descents. The next day, we explored some of the marked ski routes. Of course, it had been a few days since the last snowfall and these were relatively well-groomed. With a little imagination, we could imagine ourselves on a powder day. The routes themselves were well thought out, offered exciting routes and were excellently signposted. 

The two days went by far too quickly and we can hardly wait to come back — maybe we'll even get to chase after George again! A big thank you to the St. Anton am Arlberg Tourist Board for the invitation and of course to George!

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