Every freerider now knows the Engelberg ski resort in central Switzerland. This has the disadvantage that the first-line jostling for the first gondolas can be quite stressful. If the classic variants Laub, Steinberg, Jochstock or Galtiberg have usually turned into moguls after just one day, the descents in particular, which require a little effort (ascent) or alpine know-how, offer lonely descents and are still easy to ski days after the last snowfall. One of these freeride tours, the Titlis circuit, has been considered a classic since the 1990s and every freerider should have done this tour at least once. There are many reasons for this: a magnificent 2700-metre descent, impressive views from Tödi to Finsteraahorn or alpine adrenaline when abseiling are just a few of them.
Once you've been on the Wenden Glacier below the imposing south face of the Titlis, you know you'll be back. The possibilities for extending the Titlis circumnavigation or combining it with intermediate summits, traverses or overnight stays in huts seem endless. From variants lasting several hours to ski tours lasting several days, this classic can be extended. The tour can be undertaken from mid-winter to late spring. However, the tour should be started early, because during the steep, south-facing descent and the south-west-facing ascent to the Wenden Glacier, rockfall and the increasing risk of avalanches due to warming temperatures must be taken into account.
Tour description
The starting point is the summit of Klein Titlis, which can be reached with the Rotair gondola. From here, ski down the Titlis Glacier on the left until you reach the traverse to the Steinberg variant and are led to the Titlisjoch. After a short ascent (approx. 20 m) along the ridge (you may need to rope up) to the Hinterer Titlisjoch (point 2696) and a careful descent, you reach the first abseiling point (iron post set in concrete) below the Vorderer Titlisjoch (point 2736). In good snow conditions, you can abseil into the couloir with skis strapped on; otherwise the skis must be attached to the backpack (approx. 25 abseiling meters). The south-facing, narrow couloir leads directly to the Chli Gletscherli glacier, which you ski down towards Schwarze Naad (point 2390) until you reach a narrowing gully (on the right). About 10 m below the entrance there is an abseiling point with a chain on the right-hand side of the rock. After approx. 25 meters of abseiling, you reach the second abseiling point on a ledge (again approx. 25 m). From here you should abseil down the left-hand gully, although the right-hand gully is also used from time to time. Both abseils can be done on skis in good snow conditions, which saves a lot of time - especially for larger groups. A short descent via Schwarzen Berg (keeping left) takes you to the Anfellstelle at approx. 2100 m.
First climb the south-west side of the Wenden Glacier (approx. 35° steep terrain; note the increased risk of avalanches when the temperature rises or during the day! The glacier is usually well covered with snow and crevasses are rare. Just below the summit (point 2647) you reach the Grassenbiwak, which invites you to spend the night. If you choose the variant with the ascent of the Grassen (Pkt. 2946), you now have to climb almost 300 meters in altitude to the south over the Finralpelifirn. You will be rewarded with a magnificent view down to the Susten Pass and can combine the tour with a descent to the Sustlihütte (SAC, 2257 m). Otherwise, follow the ascent route back down to below the Tierberg, keep right and reach the Firnalpeli glacier. There are various downhill options through Firndossen and Laucheren until you have to take the summer trail down to Herrenrüti Alp (1165 m). The road (usually snow-free in spring) takes you via Herrenrütiboden to the Fürenalpbahn valley station. From here, you can take the bus back to Engelberg.
All pictures in the gallery
Information
Difficulty (5-level scale): *****
Special dangers: Abseiling, glacier on ascent and descent, risk of falling rocks on south-facing descent (early start)
Average steepness/maximum steepness: 35°/ 45°
Exposure: Titlis- Firnalpeligletscher and Grassen N, Chli Gletscherli S.
Altitude difference Start and finish: Klein Titlis 3032 m | Herrenrüti 1165 m
Altitude difference uphill and downhill: 570 m (870 m), 2400 m (2700 m) (information in brackets: variant via Grassen summit)
Duration: 5 hours to several days. Times indicated from Klein Titlis summit.
Best time of year: January to March (usually possible even into April)
Accommodation: Grassen bivouac on Tierberg (max. 18 people)
Addresses:Bergbahnen Titlis, Tourism Association Engelberg, Mountain guide Remo Baltermia
How to get there: Engelberg can be reached from Lucerne by S-Bahn. By car, it takes about 1.5 hours from Zurich.
Topographical maps: Swisstopo Stans (245 S) and Sustenpass (255 S), 1:50000; National maps 1:25000 Engelberg (1191) and Melchtal (1190)
