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TouringTip | Spring high-altitude ski tour Piz Grialetsch

A photo reportage of a two-day adventure

03/28/2025 by Franz Thomas Balmer
The recently renovated Grialetsch Hut SAC is surrounded by striking mountain peaks in the backcountry between Davos, the Flüala Pass and the Lower Engadine. It is the perfect starting point for a spring ski tour to the Piz Grialetsch.

A parking lot in the city center. The perfect moment to call someone without disturbing them. Or to catch really good powder snow without the problem of old snow. Some things are not always easy to find. The latter in particular has been a particularly tough nut to crack so far this winter. This makes a high-altitude ski tour all the more tempting now, in spring.

Scene change. The train is just arriving in Davos. We hop straight on the bus to the side valley of Dischma and escape the hustle and bustle of Europe's highest town at 1,560 meters. It is a pleasant contrast when we get off the bus in Teufi and meet our mountain guide Adrian Räz. From the city straight into nature in just a few minutes, so to speak. A quick equipment check and we set off. After the first few meters, the sweat is already running off my forehead in thick drops. No wonder: unlike on a normal ski tour, we are carrying full glacier equipment with crampons, climbing harness, rope and ice axe in our backpacks. Slowly but steadily, we make our way up through the deep snow - following historical tracks. The hamlet of Dürrboden, where we have just arrived, used to be an important stop on the mule route from Davos over the Scaletta Pass to the Engadin and on to the Italian Valtellina. For centuries, salt from Tyrol and Venice and wine from Valtellina were imported along this route. We stop for a short breather. The mountain guide points upwards with his stick. The flanks of Piz Grialetsch glow in the sunlight.

"Somewhere in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by mountain peaks. A high-altitude ski tour in the Davos backcountry is an unforgettable experience." Franz Thomas Balmer, author

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A little gem in no man's land

The route takes us across the valley floor to the mouth of the Furggabach stream and up through the hollow towards the east via Furggasee to Fuorcla da Grialetsch at 2536 meters. Civilization suddenly seems very far away. We may not have reached our destination yet, but I already feel like I've arrived. Only the meditative click-clack of the bindings can be heard with every step. Lonely, we make our way up through the hilly terrain. I feel a bit like the cult dropout Chris McCandless from the classic book "Into the Wild". My thoughts revolve around his passage from the book: "There is no greater joy than to have an endless horizon" as we pass rugged rock formations somewhere in the middle of nowhere. How true.

"Lonely, we make our way up through the hilly terrain." Franz Thomas Balmer, author

Suddenly it appears in the distance, the Grialetsch hut. The new roof with solar panels gleams in the spring sun. In summer 2021, the SAC hut was extensively renovated and extended with a wooden structure. The result is impressive. With the new chapter of the hut also came a new hut warden couple. After more than 34 years, Hanspeter Reiss has handed over the reins to Werner and Tanja Schweizer. The two of them give us a warm welcome on arrival. First we take off our shoes and let our socks dry in the sun. Werner brings us a cold platter of meat, cheese, bread and a glass of his homemade elderberry syrup. Divine. While the terrace of the Grialetschhütte slowly becomes shady, Piz Sarsura Pitschen still shines brightly in the afternoon sun in front of us. It's getting chilly, so we move inside. In front of the entrance, we slip into our hut shoes, which are neatly arranged by size on the shelf by the entrance. We are about to embark on a journey through time without knowing it.

An unexpected journey through time

Check your status, post an Insta story or upload a new profile picture? Not a chance. The cell phone doesn't show a single line - dead zone. But it's not really that bad. The phone quickly disappears back into my pocket. We grab a beer and sit down with the other tour guests. The atmosphere is a bit like traveling before social media, when you met like-minded people at the hostel bar. Simple and uncomplicated. Nostalgia comes up. One of them tells us that they tried to climb Piz Grialetsch today. Unfortunately, the snow conditions were not good and they descended back to the hut. Maybe we'll have better luck tomorrow. The conditions in spring are constantly changing. We go to bed early after dinner. One last look out of the window: the evening light turns the mountain peaks purple.

"The lack of cell phone reception at the Grialetschhütte feels like a journey back in time. Just like traveling used to be without social media. It feels so good." Franz Thomas Balmer, author

With headlamps on, we are the first group to leave the hut the next morning and climb up the hill. The path leads us to the Grialetsch Glacier. We get our first taste of a high-altitude tour: Adi the mountain guide explains how to tie a figure 8 knot and ropes us up. Safe is safe. The route continues directly and steeply to a small crossing directly below Piz Grialetsch. We circle the summit by 90 degrees to the north, climb up to a shoulder and deposit our skis there.

Highest concentration until summit happiness

With ice axe and crampons, we scramble through the sloping southern flank of Piz Grialetsch. Clack. Clack. The crampons hold reliably in the snow and we gradually gain height. The route now leads over a narrow ridge. Just don't look down now. I can feel my hands getting wet. My fingers cling tightly to the ice axe. Breathe in. I carefully put one foot in front of the other. Concentration. Only a few meters to go. We've made it! We are standing on the summit at 3131 m above sea level. I slowly turn my head to the side, what a view of the surrounding glacier world from up here: the steep Scaletta glacier to the north, the Vadret da Grialetsch to the east and the Vadret Vallorgia to the south. Heart palpitating. It's probably moments like these in life when happiness is within your grasp.

"What a view: the steep Scaletta glacier to the north, the Vadret da Grialetsch to the east and the Vadret Vallorgia to the south. Heart palpitating." Franz Thomas Balmer, author

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A dream descent all the way back to Dürrboden

Luck remains with us later on the descent: the conditions are great and the snow is still mostly untracked. We don't need to be told twice. Quickly skins off and off we go. The snow feels even better than we had hoped - powder at the top and slush further down. A real dream descent back to Dürrboden. From here, muscle power is required again. In skillful Dario Cologna style, we ski our way back over the surface to Teufi. No easy matter. The spring sun is beating down mercilessly and the sweat is pouring down. We imagine how good it would be to cool off in the river next to us. After around 40 minutes, we arrive back in Teufi. The same place where we started our adventure the day before. What remains is the memory of the summit bliss, the path through lonely landscapes, the unforgettable hut atmosphere and the exhilarating descent at the end. The magic of ski mountaineering.

Useful information

Stage 1: Teufi - Grialetschhütte SAC

- Difficulty: L (easy ski tour)
- Altitude: 850 m
- Duration: 4 h

The tour starts in the Dischma side valley near Teufi (1700 m) and leads along the cleared road into the valley to the parking lot shortly after "Gulerigen Hus". Continue along the alpine path to Dürrboden at 2004 m a.s.l. Then across the valley floor to the mouth of the Furggabach stream. Through the hollow towards the east up via Furggasee to Fuorcla da Grialetsch (2536 m) and south-east over hilly, rocky terrain to the hut.

Note: In fog, the trail is not easy to find through the unclear terrain.

Stage 2: Grialetschhütte SAC - Piz Grialetsch - Dürrboden - Teufi

- Difficulty: ZS (quite difficult ski tour)
- Altitude difference: 600 m
- Duration: 3 h

From the Grialetschhütte (2540 m), the route leads up towards Chilbiritzenspitze on a moraine terrace to the shoulder (3020 m) south of Piz Grialetsch. Continue over the southern flank as high as possible on skis. Ski depot. On foot up to the summit of Piz Grialetsch (3130 m). Long, rewarding descent back to Dischma. North-facing, several variants possible depending on snow conditions.

Note: This route leads over a glacier, so glacier equipment is required for safety in addition to ski touring equipment.

How to get there
Easily accessible by public transport: train to Davos Dorf, then bus from Davos Dorf station to Teufi.

Equipment required

Complete ski touring equipment, silk sleeping bag for overnight stay in hut, crampons, helmet, ice axe and glacier equipment

Overnight stay during the high-altitude tour

Grialetsch-Hütte SAC

Tel. +41 81 416 34 36, grialetsch.ch

Tip: Be sure to reserve a place in advance

Restaurant tip after the tour

The start and end point of this high-altitude ski tour is the "Restaurant Teufi" in the Dischma Valley. Tip: the homemade rösti with cheese, bacon and fried egg.

Selected ski hotels
The "Ski-Hotel" seal includes over 20 accommodations in the Davos Klosters destination that work together for skiers and snowboarders. They offer attractive deals with ski pass. One of the special services is that ski passes are available directly at the hotel reception. Ideal for before or after the ski tour.

More ski touring tips

Davos Klosters, with its side valleys and the Flüela Pass in particular, is very popular for ski touring from December to April. Spring is the ideal time for high-altitude ski tours. Detailed tour descriptions, tips, guides and rental equipment: davos.ch/skitouren or klosters.ch/skitouren

Photo gallery

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