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TouringTip | Pizzo Pesciora

Pizzo Pesciora 3120 m | Ticino

by Totti Lingott 10/21/2008
The Gotthard is part of Europe's main watershed. The major Alpine rivers Rhine, Rhone, Reuss and Ticino have their source in the Gotthard region. However, we are more interested in the region's interesting ski and high-altitude tour destinations. This time we went on a one-day tour to the little brother of the Pizzo Rotondo, the Pizzo Pesciora. Although this is 70 meters lower at 3122 m, its summit ascent is classified as significantly more difficult.

                        The reward of every tour: unforgettable views, far-reaching and deep views

 The long period of fine weather in February made it possible to go on easy alpine tours early on, which are otherwise only possible at the end of winter. Many tourers opt for a two-day tour from the north with an overnight stay at the Rotondo hut (2571 m) for a winter ascent of the Pizzo Pesciora (3122 m). From here, a five-hour tour over the Witenwasseren Glacier and the Witenwasseren Pass (2819 m) is required to reach the summit. We opted for a one-day tour from the south, however, starting in Ronco in Val Bedretto (1487 m). This alternative (route 444b) is described as a 4.5 to five-hour ski tour in the "Central Switzerland - Ticino" ski tour guide published by the Swiss Alpine Club, whereby the following quote should not be overlooked when planning your time: "The ascent of the Pizzo Pesciora from Ronco-Bedretto requires great stamina due to the length and steepness of the ascent, but rewards the experienced touring skier with an exceptionally rowdy descent." 

The weeks of fine weather, spring-like temperatures and the strong sunshine

 The first few hundred metres of altitude difference resulted in only green meadows; no more snow for ski touring. The ski tour normally runs from Ronco in a northerly direction along a steep ridge through sparse mountain forest (38° to 40°), which was completely free of snow in front of us.  We only had the arduous option of covering the first 300 metres of altitude with our skis on our backs in touring boots or looking for alternatives. So we decided to climb up the shady and snow-covered valley of Ri di Ronco in a north-westerly direction. Judging by the many downhill tracks, this was a popular variation descent. This was not bad at all at first and we quickly climbed 200 metres in altitude. However, after a bend in the valley, a small waterfall blocked further ascent options and we were forced to put our skis on our backs and climb over steep meadows at around 45°. The summer temperatures - there were even butterflies on the way - and the arduous climb took its toll on us. It took us an hour and a half to cover these 100 metres in altitude before we could strap on our touring skis again. 


                        Far too much sun in mid-winter 2008 – very little snow on southern slopes?

The slushy snow that had become prevalent due to the temperatures did not make it any easier to gain altitude to the Alpe di Pesciora. In the next two hours, however, we were able to cover a strenuous 1000 metres in altitude in a north-westerly direction past Löite die Piani (2150 m) and take a well-earned rest at the start of the former Pesciora glacier (approx. 2700 m). We were very glad to see the stabilised tracks of other ski tourers, as the steepness made it very difficult to make tracks in the deep snow despite the crampons.

The last 300 metres in altitude are characterised by the western bypass of a semi-circular rock ledge through steep terrain and lead to a gentle ascent to the ski depot (approx. 3060 m). Watch out for crevasses, especially in the upper section, and consider securing yourself with a rope. On the exposed ridge to the west of the summit, we enjoyed the beautiful view for a while before heading to the summit via the SW ridge by means of easy climbing (individual climbing sections in the third degree, otherwise second degree). The climbing on large granite boulders is not difficult, but the terrain is steep and very exposed. Late in the afternoon, we finally reached the summit.  We chose the conventional descent, only in the lower section we "turned off" to the west earlier in order to descend directly along our ascent line. As expected, the descent was more strenuous than enjoyable. The sun had largely disappeared from the slopes and the onset of the cold meant that we had to fight our way down the entire upper section with a blanket of harsh snow. Only in the lower section were the conditions still slushy. After the small climbing section (see ascent), we reached Ronco, exhausted but in good time before sunset. 

Conclusion: Absolutely recommendable tour.

 However, at least at these temperatures, you should set off in good time in order to be able to make progress for as long as possible on a supporting snow cover and to be able to enjoy the descent in the slushy snow. A head for heights and some climbing ability are required for the summit ascent; a rope and belaying device is recommended. In other snow conditions, crampons are essential for the summit ascent. As a one-day tour, it requires a good basic level of fitness.  

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