Crack rescue is one of the topics that most tourers, ski mountaineers and freeriders find very complex. However, the basic principles are actually quite simple and the tools are not rocket science either. Once you have understood both, you are actually equipped for all situations on the glacier. Today we'll take you step by step through the procedure for crevasse rescue...Once you have an overview of the knots and equipment required and the basic techniques for building an anchor and rescuing the fallen person, the procedure for a crevasse fall is actually clear. Nevertheless, there are a few points to bear in mind, which is why we are going to take you through the crevasse rescue step by step today.
But first the basics: In any crevasse rescue, the safety and security of the entire rope team has top priority. Therefore, everyone remains connected to the party rope, either still tied into the rope or with a self-belay using an umbilical cord or auxiliary rope. A crevasse rarely happens alone and if a second rope team member falls unroped, this complicates the situation dramatically. You should always bear in mind that calling for professional help is usually a wise option, especially in European regions. If the rope team is secured, but the next steps are unclear or difficult, you can usually wait calmly until the professionals arrive.
Unroped crevasse fall
A worst-case scenario is clearly a crevasse fall if the group has decided to climb the glacier unroped (or to walk on it, although this is much less common). Now, rest is definitely the first duty. You should definitely avoid the impulse to rush to the fallen person as quickly as possible - only to fall into a crevasse yourself to make matters worse. Instead, the rest of the group should gather in a suitable place (keep their distance from each other!), work out a strategy, rope up and only then make their way to the crevasse with the fallen person (or just parts of the group, of course). In the vicinity of the crevasse, one member of the rope team can set up a temporary anchor, for example, another can provide support by means of a body belay and a third goes carefully to the fall site, secured by the rope. Any others who may be present can already start setting up a permanent anchor.
However, this organized approach contrasts with the need to act quickly. After all, there is a good chance that the person who fell has come to rest on a lower snow bridge, which could also give way at any time. So speed is needed without irrationality. And, depending on the situation, improvisation. The next steps now depend on whether the person who has fallen is conscious and able to act or not. CASTER IS CONSCIOUS If the victim is able to participate in the rescue, the first thing he should do is to secure himself to the wall of the crevasse using an ice screw and umbilical cord. His companions should also make sure that they lower a rope to the fallen person so that he can tie himself into the rope and is secured. It is best to immediately lower a carabiner or a rope pulley with a backstop on a rope loop so that the loose pulley can be used directly. For this, body protection or a temporary anchor is better than no anchor at all and a permanent anchor can be created in parallel or afterwards. He can then be rescued as in the case of a roped crevasse fall (see below).
The worst case scenario by far is when the person who has fallen is carrying the rope. In this case, the rope team can try to tie existing slings, cords, belts, ski poles, avalanche probes or similar to each other and lower them to the fallen person so that they can attach one end of the rope to it. ROPE IS UNCONSCIOUS In this case, there is no alternative and a rope team member must be lowered from the glacier into the crevasse. To do this, a solid anchor is first built and then a companion rappels down or is lowered to tie the fallen person into the rope. If there is enough rope reserve, the rescuer can be pulled up the glacier by his companions as in a normal crevasse rescue before continuing with the victim. Otherwise, the rescuer must climb up the rope themselves.
If the unconscious person who has fallen has the rope in their backpack, the only hope is a professional rescue.
Anxious crevasse fall
HOLD THE FALL If a rope team member falls into a crevasse on the rope, it is important to hold the fall as quickly and early as possible, as a long fall not only means a longer rescue, but also involves many more dangers, such as hitting the rope during the fall or becoming trapped in the crevasse. You should therefore keep your eyes and ears open and react at lightning speed. The main task of stopping the fall falls to the last member of the rope team. Once the fall has stopped, everyone tries to adopt a position in which they can hold the person who has fallen for as long as possible. TEMPORARY ANCHORING Now the person in front sets up a temporary anchor by ramming skis or an ice axe through the hand loop into the snow cover and securing it with the body. DEFINITIVE ANCHOR Only then does the person at the back of the rope team move forward to set up the definitive anchor before the temporary belay. He should remain tied into the rope or secure himself to the rope using a hand loop and umbilical cord or long rope. CONTAINING THE ACCEPTANCE Once the party has been secured, one person can proceed to the crevasse, either using a prusik to secure themselves to the rope leading to the fallen person, or being secured to the anchor's fixed point (e.g. using a half-mast throw) by their companions using the remaining rope. PLANNING THE RESCUE If the situation can now be assessed, the method of rescue is planned and tackled and, if necessary, the appropriate hoist is set up. Edge of the crevasse Before proceeding with the rescue, the person who has gone to the crevasse to make contact should support the rope there, for example by placing an ice axe, poles or backpack under the rope and securing it with an ice axe or pole stuck in the snow. This prevents the rope from cutting further into the edge of the crevasse and making the rescue more difficult (usually not necessary with a loose pulley). It can also be useful to remove the overhanging lip of the crevasse using a shovel, ice axe or ski pole or to cut it off with a cord to establish visual contact with the fallen person and to make it easier to rescue and exit the crevasse. Make absolutely sure that the person who has fallen is not endangered by falling ice. It is best to create a passage through the lip to the side of the fall site. SKI Skis are an important part of the rescue. If possible, you should avoid letting the skis of the fallen person disappear in the crevasse, as a long walk back to civilization can also be a serious emergency scenario. You should also avoid taking off your skis on a glacier in any situation (whether when peeing or skinning), and if you do, then only one at a time, to reduce the chance of any snow bridges collapsing. Next week: examples & stereotypes
