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TouringTip | Puyehue Volcano

Filmlines to follow in spectacular surroundings

by Lea Hartl 09/13/2016
Until a few years ago, the area around the Chilean volcano Puyehue was primarily known as a beautiful trekking region. Since Sherpa Cinema and Salomon Freeski TV were there and prominently featured the steep lines in the crater, the number of visitors has also increased during winter. Ever since the strange RedBull event Out of Hell, the Puyehue is no longer an insider tip - but it is still beautiful.

The Puyehue is part of the larger Cordon Caulle and is located near the large pass road that connects the Chilean city of Osorno with the Argentinean Villa La Angostura and Bariloche (Cardenal Samoré border crossing). Coming from the Chilean side, turn left onto the unpaved road to Fundo el Caulle a few kilometers before the Chilean border control and just before a campsite. If you are coming from Argentina, bear in mind that you are only allowed to take limited amounts of food across the border into Chile. If you want to spend the night at Puyehue, it may therefore be worth making a detour to Entre Rios to the nearest Chilean supermarket.

The Fundo el Caulle is a kind of estancia with a restaurant and various tourist activities (hiking, horse riding, etc.). The owners own the land on which the road to Puyehue is located and take care of its maintenance and the hut. As you are not allowed to walk through private property in this country, you have to pay an entrance fee of 10,000 Chilean pesos (approx. €13) at the restaurant. If there is no one in the restaurant, you can ring the bell at the private house behind it. If you contact the Fundo el Caulle in advance, it is possible to organize horses to take you to the hut, depending on the snow conditions.From the Fundo el Caulle, follow the clearly visible, often quite muddy path up through the forest to a small refugio (hut) at the edge of the forest. Up to here, you have to cover around 1000 meters in altitude, most of which are rather steep. Most of it is snow-free. Even if there is snow in the forest, it is only worth putting on skis in the lighter forest shortly before the end.

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The hut is more of a better shelter than a hut in the sense of European Alpine Club huts. There is a working wood-burning stove and bunk beds without mattresses or other bedding, as well as an outhouse behind the hut in the forest. Wood is also available in the forest in the form of dead trees. It is better not to rely on dry, already chopped wood. Depending on the snow conditions, you can fetch water from a nearby stream. As people sometimes leave food in the hut, you should stow your own food in a mouse-proof place. The tour can also be done in one day, but is much more relaxed if you stay overnight, especially if you want to spend some time at the crater. In addition to occasional skiers, mainly from North America and Europe, local snowshoers also visit the hut. Especially on nice weekends, you are therefore not necessarily alone, and from the hut you have a beautiful view of the ascent route to the summit. As with most typical ski volcanoes in the area, there is only one possible direction: upwards. Depending on the snow and your personal taste, follow the gullies and hollows up to the crater. The terrain is mostly not steep, apart from a short ascent before the last ridge to the summit, which is perhaps better tackled on foot in hard snow. following the logical course of the terrain from the hut, you will more or less automatically reach the highest point of the crater (2240m) after about 600 meters in altitude. If you want to descend into the crater, it is best to follow the crater rim a little to the east (looking into the crater to the right). This will take you to the entrance of a wide gully, through which you can usually enter the crater relatively easily. Everywhere else, the lines into the crater are much steeper and sometimes exposed. If you want to ride something here, it is advisable to climb it beforehand or take a very close look at it. The lines are short, but they are tough and even in favorable conditions there is often an ice slab hiding somewhere. In general, you shouldn't expect to find powder here where you can throw yourself down the volcano spines like in All.I.Can. Blown-off, hard snow is much more likely. At Fundo el Caulle, skiers may be advised to head straight for the film lines, which are the best for skiing. If you are given such advice, bear in mind that the person giving the information only knows the film and does not ski himself... The descent to the hut and the starting point is the same as the ascent. Alternatively, the tour can of course be extended to the other side of the crater, where there are hot springs some distance away (quite far as a day tour) and extensive, domed volcanic terrain.

In addition to the usual dangers posed by steep terrain (in the crater) and ski tours in remote areas, particular caution is required in poor visibility (e.g. clouds gathering during the course of the day). Finding your way along the uniform volcanic slopes can quickly become very difficult. If you make a mistake by a few degrees in the upper area, you may miss the hut and the trail considerably. To be on the safe side, you could save the position of the hut in your GPS, or take a bearing from the summit and make a note of the direction. Descending without a trail somewhere in the forest is not recommended under any circumstances.

Starting point: Fundo el Caulle

Material: Ski touring equipment, crampons, possibly ice axe. For overnight stays: mat, sleeping bag, stove, etc.

Infostand: 2015

We would like to thank Food for Adventure for their kind support in the form of trekking food!

Salomon Freeski Episode: Into the Volcano

Empressive collection of pictures from the 2011 eruption

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This article has been automatically translated by DeepL with subsequent editing. If you notice any spelling or grammatical errors or if the translation has lost its meaning, please write an e-mail to the editors.

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