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Bike mountaineering through the Central Alps - A diary report | Part III

Diagonally through the Alps by bike

by Marius Schwager 10/30/2009
Logbook entry: 26-30.09. Upcoming stage: Rifugio Grande Tournalin – Cervinia – Zermatt


                        The second arc from the Montafon through southern Alpine regions is on the cards.

Logbook entry: 26-30.09. Upcoming stage: Rifugio Grande Tournalin - Cervinia - Zermatt

Day 15, 27.9: Zermatt


                        Daddy, is that the Matterhorn? Yes, my child.

Kaisertrails

Today I'm treating myself to a full day in the Swiss flagship resort of Zermatt. There are plenty of lifts and gondolas here, the mountains are truly imperial in scale and, in good weather, simply stunningly beautiful.


                        Without the biker, this would have been a beautiful landscape.

The first downhill takes me along the Gornergrat railroad line towards Riffelalp. Flowy at the top, technical in the middle section, short, exposed high-level trail, full throttle forest trail at the bottom. YES, that's how it should be. That's it!

So straight back up on the cable car. From the Gornergrat mountain station, this time to the right of the route to Riffelberg as seen from above. Uiuiui, nice and wide at the top so as not to get in the way of the now many hikers, then almost free of hikers at the bottom (most of them only walk to Riffelsee and back to the cable car) and really creamy! Because it's so beautiful, let's do it again! And again!!!


                        The direct route from Cervinia to Zermatt - glacier biking on the Theodul Glacier.

Day 16, 28.9.: Zermatt - Verbier

Cross-country interlude

Day 17, 29.9.: Verbier

Biking prohibited

An early start again this morning, as the weather forecast promises top photo conditions. Peter must have misunderstood my request for only "light cloud cover".

The cloud cover is completely dense in the early morning. The webcams for further up don't promise any sunshine either. So we have a leisurely breakfast and see what the day has in store.


                        Just leave the gas on.

I ate everything, and lo and behold, the clouds are gradually clearing. I was looking for the most comfortable photo positions during training and qualifying for the Swiss Downhill Cup at the Ruinettes course today. It doesn't help. If the fast guys and girls here just want to ride their marked course... someone has to use the other open lifts.

The gondola to Mont Fort is on strike just as I arrive. Never mind - it's time to enjoy the panorama! The Dents du Midi, Mont Blanc massif and Grand Combin line up in front of me. Formidable.


                        Trail surfing on the irrigation channel under the watchful eye of the Grand Combin.

Now, however, it wouldn't be a bad idea to go for a bike ride. We set off below Mont Fort at around 3000 m. First on a gravel road with some freeride and jumping sections, then along a beautifully landscaped irrigation channel.

And on to the Les Ruinettes cable car. From there, I take a steep hiking trail down to Verbier. The little path seems to be frequented by many downhill riders. I can understand why. Technical, mostly steep and with a nicely varied route, it's a quick ride through the sparse forest to Verbier.

At the top of the Ruinettes cable car again, I follow a water pipe northwards. I deliberately ignore the "no cycling"sign. The path is fantastically beautiful. Always slightly downhill, you have to pedal constantly. In terms of riding technique, you just have to be careful not to leave the narrow path because of the fantastic views.

Day 18. 30.9.: Verbier - Lausanne

End of the curve

Last bike day of the trip. I drag myself out of bed early in the morning for the last time and get motivated on the saddle. Verbier offers me dream weather once again this morning. I can't find a single cloud in the clear morning sky.

For the 700-metre downhill to Le Chable, I choose the signposted hiking trail from the center of Verbier. There are certainly more technically challenging routes down here, but speeding through the barns and houses in the old districts of Verbier is just the thing to wake you up. Again and again, the path alternates between paved sections in the middle of anonymous houses and rough, fun cobblestone sections.

From Le Chable, I pull out the road turbo again. The road is almost all downhill for 400 meters to Martigny. I'm glad that I'm heading downstream and not the other way around. The Tour de France heroes must have struggled a bit more a month or so ago: with all the banners painted on the road, it almost feels like I'm there live.

From Martigny, I opt for the rail option and buy a ticket to Aigle. From there, a short change will take me to Champery - part of the Portes du Soleil bike area. I plop down in the comfortable seat, take a quick sip of water and I'm already in the realm of dreams.

When I wake up again, I look out of the window and see... water! The little cogs in my head quickly start turning... Lake Geneva! I must have slept a little too long, because the nice train voice promptly announces "Prochaine Arret, Montreux. Next stop, Montreux"!

This wasn't actually the plan. My watch says it's only 10 o'clock. Too late to drive back to Champery. But not too early to cruise comfortably along the lake for the last 25 km to Lausanne. It's not so bad, because I already know a lot of the trails in the Portes du Soleil area from a few visits. I quickly get used to the idea of riding 25 km in 6 hours along the magnificent Lake Geneva promenade to Lausanne. Record-breaking!

As soon as I find the first quiet spot by the lake, I'm already splashing around in the pleasantly cool water. YES! Then a nap in the blazing midday sun and I roll the last few meters to Lausanne.


                        Relaxed end to the day on Lake Geneva

A biker friend is waiting for me there for a barbecue. The view of Lake Geneva, the sunset, a cold beer, American hamburgers and homemade cookies are a great end to the trip.

Photo gallery

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