With a length of around 450 km (compared to around 1200 km in the European Alps) and over 3000 glaciers, the Southern Alps on New Zealand's South Island are a remarkable, but barely inhabited mountain range that offers endless freeriding opportunities. The mountain range stretches across practically the entire South Island and is home to 17 peaks above the magical 3000-meter line, most of them in the western part. Compared to Europe, there are relatively few inhabited or agriculturally used areas, which means you can enjoy unforgettable views of untouched landscapes while freeriding.
This impressive wilderness also presents the greatest challenge in the mountains of New Zealand: namely the way to the snow or the planned tour. Apart from the ski resorts, the mountains are hardly accessible! Mountain roads are few and far between and the snow line is usually above the bush line at around 1500 meters above sea level. With valley altitudes of around 500 m, this often means ascents and descents of several hours without snow. It can take over 8 hours to enjoy a 1000-metre descent.
Journey
There are no attractive alternatives to traveling by plane. The decisive factor for the journey is rather the question of the destination airport and the airline. Most flights with a stopover fly to Auckland, as large aircraft can land there. However, the journey from Auckland to the mountains of the South Island takes around three days each way. This option is therefore particularly interesting if you have enough time and would also like to visit the North Island.
Flights to Queenstown or Christchurch take you relatively close to the ski resorts. These usually fly via Australia and therefore involve several stopovers. However, the journey to the ski resorts then only takes a few hours. When choosing an airline, it is not only the price that is important, but also the handling of ski luggage. If possible, you should bring all your equipment with you, as equipment is significantly more expensive in New Zealand than in Europe. Lufthansa and Air Newzealnd treat ski baggage as standard baggage as long as it remains within the weight limit of the free baggage allowance. This means: if all your stuff fits in your ski bag and it weighs less than 23 kg (with some other airlines, e.g. Emirates, this is also 30 kg), you don't have to pay any extra for your ski baggage. But be careful, this also means that apart from skis, bindings and boots, there will be relatively little space for other equipment. In any case, you should devote some preparation time to this topic to avoid an expensive surprise at the airport. The best thing to do is to ask your trusted ski bum what tricks he or she knows. You'll be surprised how creative people can get when it comes to this topic.
Moving around in New Zealand
The means of transportation for freeriding in New Zealand is clearly the car. Even if you set up your base in one of the ski resorts, you still have to get out of the village and onto the mountain, which almost always means a journey of at least 30 minutes and an adventurous drive on one of the ski field roads. If you decide to travel by car, you should always choose a very sturdy vehicle due to the roads. Four-wheel drive is recommended (sometimes even mandatory on the way to the ski resorts) and campervans are also worth considering. These are often solid and offer the advantage of having the question of accommodation resolved. There are also bus and train connections, but these will only help you to a limited extent when traveling to the snow. However, traveling without your own car is by no means impossible, hitchhiking is generally quite easy and you will also find a ride relatively quickly on the way to the ski resort. You can find more information about traveling in New Zealand in our article on this topic.
Accommodation
New Zealand is a tourist destination, especially in summer. The range of accommodation options in winter is therefore correspondingly large. From campsites to hotels, there is something for every budget. Hostels are available in tourist resorts from just under NZD 30 per person per night. Apartments are rented per room and start from NZD 100 per night. If you share an apartment with three people (double bed plus extra bed or sofa bed), the price is also around NZD 30 per person per night. Campers are an interesting alternative. In winter, these are often very cheap (less than 40 NZD per day, e.g. for approx. 3 weeks rental on www.motorhomerepublic.com). Camping is free of charge under certain conditions (see freedom camping). If you share a van, you can stay for less than NZD 20 per night and also have a vehicle included. When you think about camping, questions like: How do I dry my clothes? How cold is it at night? and much more. However, vans often have heating. Laundromats including dryers are easy to find and otherwise, as is so often the case in New Zealand: get to know the locals and just ask. If you come by with a six-pack of beer, you'll most likely be a welcome guest who can use the washing machine and warm up on the couch one night ...
Regions and ski resorts
Southern Lakes
The Southern Lakes region with its two centers Queenstown and Wanaka is the center of the ski resorts developed for tourism. But it's not just the ski resorts that make the region a tourist magnet. The crystal-clear mountain views surrounded by snow-capped mountain peaks form one of the most beautiful backdrops that New Zealand has to offer.
Queenstown is a tourist town! This has advantages but also disadvantages. The hustle and bustle can be too much, but on the other hand you can also find some distraction during long periods of bad weather. In addition to the many bars and restaurants, there are countless alternatives for being active: from excellent bike offers (see also our story "Ski and Bike New Zealand") to skydiving and a summer toboggan run. The ski resorts Coronet Peak and RemarkablesCoronet Peak are not famous for their backcountry offerings (although this should not be underestimated either), but offer a varied program with night skiing and other events. The Remarkables have already hosted the legendary NZ Freeski Open several times. And this is no coincidence. The secured freeride offer is top-notch and the backcountry also has everything a freerider's heart desires, from flowing runs to extreme descents (more on both ski resorts in the article on Queenstown).
If you drive from Queenstown via the Crown Range (fans of films about epic heroic sagas might recognize this mountain section from the film adaptation of a successful book about a gem) to Wanaka, you will pass a crossroads halfway. If you turn right here, you will come to the Snowfarm. Many of you will know it as Snowpark NZ or the "Funpark im Nichts" from "That's it, that's all". Unfortunately, the park has closed its doors and is now a testing ground for cars. If you turn left, you come to the Cardrona ski resort, whose park is a worthy successor to the snow park. But it's not just the park in Cardies that is impressive, freeriders can also let off steam here. Once you arrive in Wanaka, you will quickly realize that it is a little quieter and cooler here than in Queenstown, without having to do without the infrastructure of a ski resort. The closest ski resort to Wanaka is Treble Cone, the home spot of Kiwi freeride greats Janina Kuzma and Sam Smoothie. TC offers an abundance of inbounds variants and the view of Lake Wanaka on the descent is one of those panoramas you just can't get enough of. You can find out more about the freeride runs with a postcard background in TC and the possibilities in Cardrona in our report on Wanaka. Canterbury
The Canterbury region is located in the middle of the South Island. In addition to the ski resort Mt. Hutt, which is comparable to the ski resorts in the Southern Lakes region, most of the club fields so typical of New Zealand can be found here.
These are mostly small ski resorts that are run by ski clubs. There is usually a clubhouse, comparable to an alpine club hut, and a few, often very simple lifts. This combination creates a very special, unique atmosphere. You immediately notice that the people on the mountain love their sport and are there precisely for that reason, and not because of parties, status or the like. Many of the Clubfields (Porters,Broken River, Mt. Olympus, Craigieburn Valley) are easy to reach from Christchurch, for example via the impressive Arthurs Pass. The most westerly location is Temple Basin. A visit there is not only worthwhile because of the typical clubbie atmosphere. The patrolled freeride terrain within the ski resort is one of the best in New Zealand. North Island
Away from the Southern Alps on the South Island, the large volcanoes on the North Island offer no less spectacular skiing terrain. The first port of call in this case is Mt. Ruapehu, an active volcano whose firn-covered peaks rise far above the central high plateau of the North Island. The terrain, often formed by lava flows, with its natural halfpipes is well worth a trip, especially in firn conditions. In mid-winter, most of the precipitation falls as freezing rain and the lifties spend most of their time knocking the ice off the chairlifts with baseball bats. In spring, however, the mountain shows its friendly side more and more often and invites you to ski tours as well as downhill runs in the ski resorts. The snow line is also relatively high on the North Island, so the easiest way to access the snow is via one of the ski reorts. Whakapapa on the north side and Turoa on the south side are even quite easy to reach by ski bus from the respective villages at the foot of the volcano (the only ski resorts in New Zealand with paved access roads!) and the shared ski pass makes it possible to commute between the ski resorts with a short ascent over the crater.
On the eastern side is the small club field Tukino, whose lodge is mainly used as a stopover for ski tours lasting several days (be sure to check availability beforehand). If you don't have time for multi-day activities, you should at least make the hike up to the crater rim. Coming from Turoa, you can descend directly towards the crater lake and get back to the ski resort without much ascent. Other worthwhile ski mountains are the neighboring Mt. Ngauruhoe, known as Mount Doom from the Lord of the Rings, and Mt. Taranaki in the west. While Ngauruhoe must be climbed entirely "by fair means" (including the approach), Taranaki has a small clubfield with an access road. Due to the exposed location, the weather on the volcanoes of the North Island can change quite quickly, even in spring, which is why precise tour planning and appropriate equipment are essential. If the weather is not suitable, there is also a top-class alternative program here. In addition to the countless hot springs, the North Island offers first-class bike trails (Bikepark Rotorua), whitewater rivers (Rafting/Kayaking Rotorua) and surf breaks (Taranaki Surf Highway). If you still have some time and money left at the end of your NZ trip, you shouldn't miss out on a cozy end to your trip on the North Island. If you expect ski resorts in New Zealand to be similar to those you are used to in the Alps, you will be disappointed; ski resorts in New Zealand are different. However, this does not mean that they are worse. The ski reorts are significantly smaller than in Europe. Only a few offer more than three chairlifts and often the entire area consists of one or two small to medium-sized basins. As a result, the range of slopes is much smaller than we are used to. However, freeriding is very important. Variants are marked on all piste maps and are secured and cleared by the patrollers. As a result, there are many easily accessible freeride options available in what at first glance appears to be a small area. Lift tickets are relatively expensive at just under 100 NZD per day. However, if you are planning to spend longer in one area, you should consider buying a season pass. With an early bird bonus (buy before the start of the season), you can sometimes only pay just over NZD 500. An alternative is the Chill Pass, which includes a limited number of days in different areas. Renting season passes or buying passes with remaining days from departing tourists is not recommended, as the passes are personalized and strictly controlled. The density of huts and restaurants in ski resorts is also extremely low compared to Europe. There is often only one café at the valley station. The atmosphere there is usually quite relaxed and it is common to bring your own food and drink and consume it in the café or on the terrace.
Touring in NZ
When you stand at the summit of a hike from a ski resort and point in amazement at the surrounding peaks, you often hear the question "can you ski that? and that? and ...". Unfortunately, the answer is usually just as often: "You could, but it's a long way in". There is certainly no shortage of touring opportunities in New Zealand. The difficulty, however, is getting to the start of the tour. Without a long hike with hiking boots, this is only possible in a few places due to the high snow line and the few mountain roads. The easiest tours are from the ski resorts or in the Arthurs Pass region, as the pass sometimes reaches over 1000 m above sea level (which unfortunately still often means an ascent of 500 m). Probably the most productive and rewarding way to go ski touring in New Zealand is to spend longer in the Mt. Cook region and base yourself in one of the refuges (e.g.Tasman Hutt or Plateau Hutt). However, these are not managed and are very remote. Such a trip is therefore a logistical challenge. In addition to glacier equipment (including emergency communication equipment, no cell phone reception), sleeping bags and food also have to be brought to the hut.
Accessing the huts on skis is a very ambitious undertaking (20 km + ascent with food etc.), so it is common to be flown to the hut by helicopter or plane. This costs around NZD 400 per person. If you can't fill a helicopter with your crew, it's worth renting a cabin for one or two nights at the NZ Alpine Club in Mt. Cook Village to try and find like-minded people there. Fabi Lentsch's film AOTEAROA impressively shows just how rewarding such an elaborate trip can be. The government websites are very helpful for planning such a trip. Weather information for a mountain region or directly related to the ski resorts can be found at www.metservice.com. Topographical maps (unfortunately only at a scale of 1:50,000 but with a very helpful satellite layover function) can be viewed online at www.topomaps.co.nz. Pay attention to the cardinal points: In the southern hemisphere, the sun is in the north at noon. North-facing slopes are therefore sunny slopes, south-facing slopes are shady slopes.
Away from the snow
It is no coincidence that Kiwis seem to be particularly good skiers in poor snow conditions. New Zealand has winters with little precipitation and longer periods without fresh snow are unfortunately a regular occurrence. And in order not to regret a trip to the other end of the world, you should have an option for alternative activities ready. There is certainly no shortage of great offers. If you want to experience an impressive natural spectacle, head to Milford Sound. Many boat trips are offered there for around NZD 100. The sound is one of the most famous sights on the South Island and therefore the boats are often very busy. You can explore the untouched landscape in a more leisurely and natural way with a kayak from a provider such as Go Ornage. Be aware of the weather conditions, as the pass road to the sound is often closed in winter due to the risk of avalanches!
Visiting one of the large farms is also an experience and you can see first-hand where the merino baselayer you are wearing comes from (e.g. at the Icebreaker Farm). If you want to stay sporty, you will find a brilliant range of trails for biking. As there is usually hardly any snow in the valley and many of the trails are very low lying, biking is possible without any problems even in winter. The largest range of bike trails can be found in Queenstown, but there are also bike trails in Wanaka and on Mt. Hutt. You can find out how to combine biking and skiing in one trip in our story "Bike and Ski" in New Zealand. One of the cheapest pastimes is frisbee golf. Queenstown and Wanaka have their own 18-hole courses. Discs are available to buy from NZD 20, and can often be hired. The many surfing and kayaking opportunities should also not go unmentioned. Sebastian Fischer from the PowderGuide community has recorded a few of the possible alternatives to freeriding in NZ in a video:
Freeriding in NZ - our top tips
Skifield roads are not a highway!
Although there are ways to travel without your own car, there are few countries where having your own car brings as many advantages as New Zealand.Meet the Kiwi!
If you're unlikely to see the bird outside of zoos, you should at least get to know a few locals. They are extremely friendly, open and helpful!Access is key!
Getting to the starting point of tours outside a ski resort is a major challenge. Good planning is therefore all the more important.Visit a Clubbie!
Visit a Clubfield and inhale the Kiwi ski flair!No Snow? No problem!
Look around for a replacement program in advance. New Zealand has so much to offer. Waiting and drinking bored tea in bad weather or no snow would be too bad.
New Zealand is a beautiful country whose mountains make the hearts of many freeriders beat faster. Even if tours are comparatively difficult, the conditions unsafe and perhaps often worse than in Europe, the landscape and the enthusiasm of the locals easily make up for these disadvantages. Every freerider should turn summer into winter and bring some of the Kiwi skiing spirit back to Europe so that the joy of skiing is once again the main focus in the mountains of Europe.
