"Stable high pressure continues to prevail over the Alpine region" A sentence that probably sums up the conditions in the Alps in winter 2010/2011. But there is a remedy. While, for example, almost all lifts in our home region of Tyrol have already been closed and only hand-picked slopes at the highest altitudes are skiable, Scandinavia had one of the best and snowiest winters in recent decades. We therefore fled to the Lyngen Peninsula in northern Norway. A week ago, there was still a meter of snow down to the sea. Last-minute travelers can still find outstanding touring conditions here well into the summer. You can read about our experiences in the travel tip for Northern Norway here While I'm sitting in front of the PowderGuide weather forecast shaking my head again, my Skype account gets in touch. Fabi writes to me: "Want to go to Lyngen with me at Easter? " Of course I've heard about the snowy Scandinavian winter, but until now I hadn't actually thought about escaping from the Alps to northern Norway. Many e-mails, pictures and videos later and after a long critical look at my war chest, we are sitting in the rental car. Our noses are glued to the car windows so that we don't miss any of the fantastic ski mountains far north of the Arctic Circle. We would like to pass on our experiences to anyone who has made up their mind, as you can still go on great ski tours there in May and probably well into the summer.
Travel information
We chose the camping option for our trip and camped right by the sea. A few days in a bivouac and a few days in accommodation were planned. Anyone camping or bivouacking in Norway must, in accordance with the principles of "Everyman's Right", simply ensure that they camp at least 150 m away from the nearest house and do not cause any damage to nature or take their waste back with them. We found permanent accommodation for a few days at the Magic Mountain Lodge in Lyngseidet, the main town on the Lyngen peninsula. Patrik and Henrika, two young ex-skibums and world travelers, have been building a hostel-style lodge here since February. In a relaxed international atmosphere, you can sit together in the cozy dining room or living room and tell and hear stories, drink a coffee or watch a ski film together over a beer or two. If you go on a tour early in the morning or late in the evening, or have a downday, you will be surprised with homemade waffles or cakes. Patrick is also happy to pass on the experience of his tours and has plenty of tips for relaxed ski tours or challenging steep faces. Self-catering guests can use the specially equipped self-catering kitchen, and it is also possible to add or cancel an overnight stay at short notice. You can choose between accommodation in a double room (with extra beds possible), apartment or dormitory. The prices are extremely reasonable by Norwegian standards and the price-performance ratio is outstanding.
Accommodation
- Lyngenlodge: Upscale wellness accommodation east of the Lyngen Peninsula. Skiing with boat. Book in good time, as tour operators (such as Flory Kern) are often fully booked. Price for 1 week half board incl. guiding 23,500 Nkr (approx. 3000.- Euro), www.lyngenlodge.com. - Group accommodation in Koppangen with its own jetty. The owner delivers self-caught (and prepared) fish, price for a small cabin (up to 6 people) for 1 week approx. 800 euros. - Magic Mountain Lodge: Cozy, young lodge in backpacker/hostel style. WiFi, cozy lounge, self-catering room, drying room and nice conversations in a relaxed atmosphere. Facebook page of the Magic Mountain Lodge Price: Bed and breakfast from 300 NKR (approx. 35 euros) per person, in a double room approx. 350-500 NKR (approx. 40-60 euros) plus 150 NKR extra bed per person per day.
Activities and useful tips
- Fishing from the jetty or boat. Various providers in the villages of Koppangen Brygger and Lyngseidet Brygger (boat trip approx. 1250 NKR p. p.). Fishing equipment is available in the two supermarkets (Coop Prix, Rema 1000) in Lyngseidet. - Skidoo: Various providers, although skidooing is actually prohibited in Norway and is punishable by hefty fines of around 1500 euros. We advise against it. - Canoeing in Svensby - mountain guides must be booked in advance. The only agency is based in Tromsö. Mountain guides here are generally not certified. Guide costs around 4000-5000 NKR (approx. 500-600 euros) per day. Generally little can be booked in advance from home. Most contact addresses can be found at www.lyngenalp.no. Our tip: book on site as soon as bad weather is forecast or your muscles need a rest from ski touring. Some useful information can be found on the Lyngen Lodge website www.lyngenlodge.com - Self-catering tip: Rema 1000 supermarket offers food, a coffee machine, sanitary facilities and a microwave (very practical for campers and self-caterers). - Rental car: it is almost essential to have your own means of transportation if you don't just want to go on the classic tours with a guided group booked from home. Cheap rates with good service can be found, for example, at www.billiger-mietwagen.de or the major car rental companies. For those looking to save money, www.rent-a-wreck.com is also an alternative. At short notice on site, www.biltrend.no is the largest provider. Snow chains or four-wheel drive are generally not required, winter tires are required by law until April 15 and are already fitted to rental cars and also make sense. The roads are usually free of snow from April onwards.
Arrival/departure
- Flight to Tromsö approx. 300-600 euros, approx. 1.5 h drive, bus transfer to Lyngenseidet possible. - Flight to Trondheim approx. 200-400 euros and approx. 16-18 h drive to Lyngseidet. Alternatively train to Narvik, then continue by bus.
Literature
Toppturer i Troms, Espen Nordahl, Friflyt (ed.), 82 tours in Malangen, Kvalöya, Ringvassöya, Tromsö fastland, Balsfjord, Tamokdalen, Lyngsalpene, Käfjordalpene and Ulöya. ISBN: 978-8293090038 Price: 399 NKR (approx. 50 euros)
Maps
Lyngenhalvöya. Lyngen, Storjord,Tromsö & Balsfjord kommuner, Ugland IT (ed.), order no. 2625. 1:50,000 touring map with Lyngen peninsulas north and south without marked tours. Available at the sports store in Lyngseidet at the crossroads and at Magic Mountain Lodge, for example. Price: 159 NKR (approx. 20 euros)
Travel time
Due to the exceptionally snowy winter of 2011, you will still be able to ski some tours right down to the sea even at the end of May. Ski touring under the midnight sun is said to be one of the most impressive experiences you can have in a ski touring life. Patrick even believes that conditions will still be very good even in June.
